YOCHITIKA NDI HDFASHION / Marichi 2TH 2024

Gucci FW24: kupambana kwa cliches

Gulu la FW24 linakhala lachitatu lonse ndi lachiwiri lokonzekera kuvala lomwe linapangidwa ndi Sabato De Sarno, kotero tili ndi zokwanira kuti titsimikize ngati Gucci yatsopano yabwera yokha. Yankho ndilakuti, ayi, sizinatero - ndipo izi ndizodziwikiratu. Zikuwonekeranso kuti ngati pali chilichonse choyenera kukambirana chokhudzana ndi chopereka chatsopanocho, ndiye chifukwa cha kusakwanira kopanga uku.

Tiyeni tiyang'ane nazo - palibe cholakwika ndi zomwe De Sarno amachita. Zosonkhanitsazo zachitika mwaukadaulo ndipo zimakhala ndi zowoneka bwino - zitha kukhala zabwino kwa mtundu wina wamalonda womwe sumadzinamizira kukhala wopanga mafashoni. Akadakhala kuti De Sarno adalumikizana ndi Gucci pambuyo pa Frida Giannini, zonsezi zikadakhala bwino, koma adalowa m'malo mwa Alessandro Michele, yemwe adatsogolera kusintha kwa mafashoni, kupanga mawonekedwe amasiku ano m'magulu omwe afala tsopano, ndikusandutsa Gucci kukhala wamkulu wakusinthaku. Chifukwa chake De Sarno adabwera ku Gucci pamalo okwera m'mbiri yake - inde, osati pachimake, koma adakali ndi mphamvu, ndipo chimenecho chinali chovuta chomwe adalephera.

Kodi tidawona chiyani panjira yowuluka ndege nthawi ino? Zovala zazing'ono zazing'ono ndi zazifupi zazifupi, ma jekete a nandolo, malaya, kapena ma cardigans, ovala popanda zapansi - zonsezi mwina ndi nsapato zazitali kapena nsanja zazikulu (zomwe de Sarno, mwachiwonekere, adaganiza zopanga siginecha yake). Tinthu tating'ono tomwe timakhala ndi malaya akulu akulu olemera ndi ngalande, madiresi otere, okhala ndi zingwe kapena opanda zingwe, zong'ambika kapena zopanda, koma nsapato zazitali zomwezo. Zovala ndi malaya okongoletsedwa ndi chinthu chonga chonyezimira cha mtengo wa Khrisimasi kapena zonyezimira zonyezimira - ndipo chopachikidwa chonyezimira ichi chinali, chikuwoneka ngati chachilendo chokha cha wotsogolera zaluso watsopano. Zina zonse zomwe zili mgululi zidakhala zosawoneka bwino ndi zam'mbuyomu - komanso zomwe ndizofunikira kwambiri ndi zina zambiri zopangidwa ndi anthu ena.

Apanso, tawona zonyezimira za Khrisimasi nthawi zambiri zomwe zili kale m'magulu a Dries van Noten - komanso pamakhoti akulu akulu omwewo. Tidawona nsapato zazitali izi, ngakhale zokhala ndi mathalauza / akabudula ang'onoang'ono ndi ma cardigan ofanana nawo mumsonkho wodziwika bwino wa Prada FW09, ndipo madiresi oterera okhala ndi zingwe zosiyana adabwera mwachindunji kuchokera kumagulu a Phoebe Filo a Celine SS2016. Ndipo zikadakhala zabwino ngati Sabato de Sarno adayika maumboni onsewa mkati mwa lingaliro lake loyambirira, kuwakonza kudzera mu masomphenya ake, ndikuwayika muzokongoletsa zake. Koma ngakhale ali ndi luso linalake, lomwe ntchito yake yakhazikitsidwa momveka bwino, alibe masomphenya komanso alibe lingaliro la Gucci ngati mtundu wamakono wamakono.

Ndiye kodi tili ndi chiyani pano? Pali ma cliches a mafashoni, mkati mwake momwe mungapezere zochitika zonse zamakono, zosonkhanitsidwa ndikukonzedwa bwino. Pali mawonekedwe owoneka bwino omwe amawoneka ngati kuyesa kuchotsa Michele ndikutsitsimutsa Ford. Pali phale lokhazikika komanso lowoneka bwino lomwe lili ndi mitundu yofiira, yobiriwira, ya terracotta ndi bowa. Pazonse, pali zotengedwa mozama koma zophatikizidwa bwino zamalonda, momwe Gucci mosakayikira amayika chiyembekezo chachikulu chazamalonda - mosakayikira, chovomerezeka. Komabe, m’gululi mulibe chilichonse chomwe chimafotokoza za mafashoni, chomwe chimatipatsa masomphenya a dziko lamakono, chojambula malingaliro athu, ndi kupangitsa mitima yathu kudumphadumpha. Apanso, mwina chikhumbo cha Gucci sichikupitilira mpaka pano - kapena sichikupitilira pakadali pano. Mwina kukongola kwa masitayelo pa zinthu kudzakhala fashoni yatsopano - koma zikachitika, tikhulupirira kuti sipatenga nthawi yayitali.

 

Zolemba: Elena Stafyeva