YOCHITIKA NDI HDFASHION / May 28TH 2024

Celine Menswear Autumn-Winter 2024/25: Fantastic Symphony ya Hedi Slimane

Kumayambiriro kwa sabata ino, Celine adasiya zosonkhanitsira zomwe zikubwera nyengo yaZima ikubwera, ndi Hedi Slimane adasankhanso kanema pa YouTube m'malo mochita masewera enieni a Paris Fashion Week komanso nyimbo zachikale m'malo mwa neo-rock wamba.

Nyimbo zomwe zikufunsidwa? Hector Berlioz 'Symphonie Fantastique, yemwe, malinga ndi dipatimenti ya PR ya Celine, Slimane adapeza koyamba ali ndi zaka 11.

Wolemba nyimboyo, yemwe analemba nyimboyi mu 1830 ali ndi zaka 26 - akuyembekeza kuti idzamuthandiza kunyengerera wojambula wa ku Britain - adalongosola kuti ndi 'chida chachikulu cha mtundu watsopano.'

Pambuyo pa zisudzo zake zoyamba zapagulu, otsutsa adadabwa ndi makono a nyimboyi, wowunikira wina akudzutsa "zodabwitsa zomwe munthu angaganizire". Ndipo mu 1969, wochititsa Leonard Bernstein adalongosola Symphonie Fantastique ngati "symphony yoyamba ya psychedelic m'mbiri, kufotokoza koyamba kwa nyimbo zomwe zinapangidwapo za ulendo, zomwe zinalembedwa zaka zana limodzi ndi makumi atatu asanabwere ma Beatles."

Mu kanema watsopano wa Slimane mumangogwedeza mutu pang'ono, ngakhale kuti ena mwa iwo amafanana pang'ono ndi katswiri wa rock wa ku California Don Van Vliet, wotchedwa Captain Beefheart, yemwe nthawi zambiri ankajambula chipewa chake.

Ndipo ziwonetsero zina zidajambulidwa mu kalabu yodziwika bwino ya Troubadour Club ku West Hollywood, yomwe m'mbiri yake idakhala ndi ziwonetsero za nthano zofewa za rock monga Jackson Browne, Eagles, ndi Byrds, komanso zithunzi za punk ndi mafunde atsopano ndi ma headbangers kuphatikiza Mötley. Crüe ndi Guns'n'Roses, omwe adaimba koyamba kumeneko.

Kanemayo amatsegula ndi ma helikoputala asanu ndi awiri akuda, iliyonse ili ndi logo yoyera ya Celine, ikuwulukira pansi pa chipululu cha Mojave. Bokosi la juke la mtundu wa Celine likulendewera pa imodzi mwa ma helikoputala ndikusiyidwa pakatikati pa phula la msewu waukulu wotayika.

Timapeza chithunzithunzi chosamveka bwino cha mndandanda wa jukebox. Pali Jimmie Hodges ndi Shania Twain, Johnny Maestro ndi Fats Domino, kuphatikizapo Symphonie Fantastique yomwe tatchulayi, nyimbo ya kanema.

Msewu wawukulu wa m'chipululu umakhala ngati njira yolowera kwa anthu amitundu ya Slimane, ovala kwambiri zakuda, ngakhale malaya ena onyezimira agolide kapena siliva amafika kumapeto, monga amachitira nthawi zambiri m'magulu a Celine. Zithunzi za Catwalk zimasakanizidwa ndi zithunzi za woweta ng'ombe wachinyamata akukwera kavalo wake komanso gulu lapang'onopang'ono la ma Cadllac asanu akuda okhala ndi ma laisensi a Celine.

Symphonie Fantastique akuwona kubwereranso kwa mtundu wa ulusi wowonda womwe Slimane adamanga nawo ntchito yake, wokhala ndi silhouette yomwe imafika m'ma 1960 ndi zaka za zana la 19 - masuti olimba, odulidwa a mabatani atatu, malaya ansalu ndi malaya opakidwa pamanja, zamtengo wapatali. nsalu monga silika, cashmere, satin ndi vicuna ubweya, zokongoletsedwa ndi mauta amphongo, nsapato, ndi zipewa za alaliki aatali-milomo zomwe sizingawoneke bwino pa Nick Cave kapena Neil Young mu kanema wa Jim Jarmusch, kapena Johnny Depp mu Dior perfume ad.

Koma zonse, zokongola zimakhalabe quintessential Slimane, magawo ofanana a Parisian bourgeois ndi Velvet Underground chikopa.

Kanemayo akutha ndi jukebox itayaka moto, ndipo nyimbo ikukhala chete: MAPETO.

Kodi tiyenera kuwona "Symphonie Fantastique" ngati Slimane atsazikana ndi Celine?

Mphekesera za wopanga kusiya chizindikiro kwakhala kosalekeza, ndipo Chanel nthawi zambiri amatchulidwa ngati kopitako. Mwamwayi, kapena ayi, tsiku lomwelo kanema wa Celine adatulutsidwa, Chanel adalengeza kukwera kwandalama kwa 16%, kuyamika wotsogolera wopanga Virginie Viard - "voti yodalirika" mwa wopanga, malinga ndi WWD.

Ndiye atsala, kapena azipita?

Mwachilolezo: Celine

Zolemba: Jesse Brouns