Celine: Anyamata Owala a Hedi Slimane

Chakumapeto kwa sabata yatha, Celine adawoneratu Smasika-Chilimwe 20Zovala 25 za amuna, ndipo Hedi Slimane adasankhanso kanema wa YouTube m'malo mowonetsa masewera enieni, ndipo adakhalanso ndi mbiri yakale m'malo mwa rock ya indie.

Miyezi ingapo yapitayo, in kanema wake kwa nyengo yamakono, Slimane adajambula m'chipululu cha Mojave komanso ku Troubadour Club yodziwika bwino ku West Hollywood. Panthawiyi, adasankha a Nyumbayi, ndi malo ake otakasuka, m’midzi ya ku England.

Kutsanzikana, anyamata oweta ng'ombe atavala zikopa zakuda - ndi moni, apamwamba achinyamata mu cricket yoyera ubweya ndi ma blazers opalasa.

N'CHIFUKWA CHIYANI “BIGHT ANGWANA”?

ndi "The Bright Young", Slimane adabwereranso ku masiku ake ophunzira ku Ecole du Louvre, komwe adalembapo kale nkhani yokhudza chiyambi cha Anglomania, chilakolako cha ku France cha kalembedwe ka Chingerezi, chomwe chinayambira ku Versailles. Wopangayo adasakaniza ngwazi zake zingapo, monga Stephen Tennant (1906-1987), yemwe anali wachibale wa Stella Tennant.

M'mawu atolankhani, Slimane adaphatikizanso mawu ochokera kwa wolemba Evelyn Waugh's Matupi Oipa: "Simukumva zambiri za chiyembekezo masiku ano, sichoncho?... Iwo ayiwala zonse za chiyembekezo, pali choipa chimodzi chokha chachikulu padziko lapansi lero. Kutaya mtima."

Matupi Oipa, Buku lachiwiri la Waugh - linasindikizidwa mu 1930 - ndi chithunzithunzi cha Bright Young Things, gulu la Bohemian, nthawi zambiri achinyamata olemekezeka komanso ochezera a pa Intaneti mu 1920s London, omwe Stephen Tennant anali membala. Waugh akanapitiliza kulemba Brideshead Ayambiranso, imene, zaka zambiri pambuyo pake, inasandulika kukhala sewero la pawailesi yakanema lotchuka ndi lachisonkhezero.

Mndandanda wa 1981 udalimbikitsa gulu la New Romantics mumayendedwe aku Britain ndi nyimbo za pop (kuphatikiza Visage ndi Duran Duran) panthawiyo ndipo zidatsogolera kumafilimu kuphatikiza. Dziko Lina ndi Maurice, ndipo pomaliza, Saltburn.

"The Bright Young" ali ndi zigawo za zonsezi. Mwina ndi imodzi mwakanema omwe Slimane adapangira Celine.

ZIMENE ZAKUSONKHANITSA NDI CHIYANI?

Ili ndi gulu lapamwamba kwambiri, lopangidwa ndi zinsalu zopangidwa ndi 1920s Chilimwe. ndalama ndi ubweya, wolukidwanso kwa Celine. Ma suti amavalidwa ndi ma waistcoats mu damask, kapena opangidwa ndi manja mu 1920s motifs a English field flowers. Ma jekete odulidwa ndi ma blazers opalasa amapangidwa ndi flannel ya cashmere. Majekete ena opalasa amakhala ndi zidutswa za trompe l'oeil couture, zopangidwa ndi manja m'malo opangira malonda. Zina mwa zidutswa zimabwera ndi zigamba za heraldic mu chiyani chizindikiro akufotokoza ngati "siliva wopukutidwa cannetiles kuzungulira", kupangidwanso kwa njira zokometsera zomwe zimagwiritsidwa ntchito mu ndi oyambirira Zaka za zana la 20 mwambo wa yunifolomu ya asilikali. Nsapato - richelieus, amonke ndi ma tapered derbies - amatanthawuza masitayelo a zovala zaku Britain kuyambira nthawi yomweyo.

Koma sizinthu zonse zomwe zimatchulidwa ku Britain: malinga ndi zolemba, Slimane anayang'ana zithunzi za mlembi wa ku America F. Scott Fitzgerald paulendo wopita ku Hotel Eden Roc ku Antibes mu 1922 pamene adapanga flannels zoyera za Summer cashmere.

Kanemayo adajambulidwa mu June watha, ku Holham Hall, ku Norfolk. Nyimboyi idadulidwa kuchokera ku Les Indes Galantes ya Jean-Philippe Rameau, yolembedwa mu 1736 chifukwa cha ballet ku Theatre du Palais-Royal. Chidutswacho chinatayika kwa zaka zoposa 150, ndipo chinapezekanso mu 1957, pamene chinachitidwa ku Versailles pamaso pa Mfumukazi ya ku England, paulendo wovomerezeka ku France.

INU MUNGAWUNTHA NAWO

"The Bright Young" ikubweretsanso kununkhira kwatsopano kwa Celine's haute parfumerie. A Rebours, yokhala ndi zolemba za oak moss, mkungudza, nutmeg, coumarin ndi cashmeran, amagawana mutu ndi buku la 1884 lolemba Joris-Karl Huysmans - adawona ngati mwaluso kwambiri pamabuku osokonekera.

N'CHIYANI CHOTSATIRA?

Ndiye kodi Hedi Slimane anali womaliza kusonkhanitsa Celine? Mphuphu Wopanga omwe akusiya mtunduwu akhala akupitilira kwa pafupifupi chaka tsopano, ndipo Chanel nthawi zambiri amatchulidwa kuti ndi komwe angapiteko. Sipanakhale zilengezo zatsopano mpaka pano. Slimane, yemwe anali ku Saint Laurent, Dior, ndi kubwerera ku Saint Laurent pamaso pa Celine, wakhala akutenga nthawi yake, kuphatikizapo maulendo angapo a kamangidwe ka mafashoni, kuti aganizire za kujambula kwake. Poganizira kwambiri mafilimu a Celine, kodi pangakhale filimu yotsatira?

Mwachilolezo: Celine

Mawu: Gulu lolemba