Loro Piana: Beyond the “Quiet Luxury” Cliché

Continuing the celebration of 100 years of history and heritage, this season Loro Piana held their presentation at the Palazzo Belgioioso, a true gem of Milanese neoclassicism, transformed for the occasion into an immersive experience centred around the linen, one of the House’s main fabrics.

ALL SIDES OF LINEN

Each of the palazzo’s spacious halls was adorned with art objects made from combed unbleached linen, by Spanish textile artist Adriana Meunié. A nod to the house’s unique savoir-faire, several rooms were transformed into immersive installations featuring spools of linen threads and large ledgers with samples of linen fabrics. So it comes as no surprise, that the spring-summer 2025 collection is all about linen’s versatility. Masterfully blended with silk, cashmere, Sopra Visso wool or even Manila hemp, Loro Piana’s linen creates new connections, transforming this casual fabric into something completely unexpected. For example, when mixed with Sopra Visso wool, linen takes on the appearance of shantung silk as exemplified by the red women's suit with a skirt and a short jacket in the style of the 80s tailoring. Or in the men's undyed cable knit cardigan, the linen is blended with cashmere, so that its smooth elasticity combined with the softness of cashmere produces an exceptional tactile effect. Each of these fabrics combines, as always at Loro Piana, exceptional beauty and phenomenal quality.

MENSWEAR KEY STYLES

The men's section featured a stunning herringbone peak-collared suit paired with a linen and silk shirt subtly alluding to the 1970s and refined coats that resembled tweed but actually were also made of linen. Special mention goes to the double-pleat flannel pants with a high waist, showcasing a 1950s silhouette that looked classy.

WOMENSWEAR KEY STYLES

Inspired by the silhouettes from the late 1970s and early 1980s, the womenswear collection was reminiscent of some of the masterpieces created by Yves Saint Laurent at the time. Whether it was a voluminous brown leather jacket, a soft pink silk blouse adorned with a large, lush bow with long ends cascading below the waist, or a black evening dress cinched at the waist and embroidered with black glass beads, the French designer’s influence could be felt in the air. Even the exceptionally crafted pseudo-shearling cashmere jacket, embroidered on top, echoed the great Saint Laurent collections of the late 1970s with their folk motifs. Other highlights included a double-layered coat – in grey and pale lilac, resembling two thin coats worn on top of each other.

A CLOSER LOOK AT THE DETAILS

At Loro Piana, it’s all about details. So this season, the collection showcased a variety of scarves: large or pocket-size, and just as the clothes, crafted from linen blended with silk or cashmere, wrapped around the neck, pinned or simply tied in different ways. Additionally, the collection also featured many headdresses in the form of simple round pillbox hats and their complex variations, such as a black hat, worn with the aforementioned red suit, reminiscent of something from Bruegel the Elder's paintings.

In recent years, the name Loro Piana has become synonymous with the so-called “quiet luxury” trend. However, it’s not just about the trends, Loro Piana represents true luxury in its most authentic form. Considering that the clothes and bags were accompanied by new sunglass styles in Japanese acetate as well as gold-plated and silver jewellery (a silver perfume bottle on a chain was a showstopper), this wardrobe is not only timeless but also very contemporary.

Courtesy: Loro Piana

Text: Elena Stafyeva