Ukukhetha kuka-Slimane: kwenzekani kwa-Celine?

Kungase kube nokunyakaziswa kwemfashini okuhle kakhulu. Ngokwemithombo yale mboni, uHedi Slimane usezosuka eCeline ngemuva kokusebenza iminyaka eyisithupha. Kungaba yiqiniso? Futhi uma kunjalo, yini elandelayo kumklami wenkanyezi?

Okokuqala, bekuyi-Ibhizinisi Lemfashini lokho kuvele izindaba zokuthi u-Hedi Slimane angase angahlali ku-Celine ngenxa “yezingxoxo zenkontileka enameva nomnikazi u-LVMH”. Kamuva, WWD ibhebhethekise amalangabi ngesici esingaba ngabangase balandele uSlimane, esho ukuthi uPolo Ralph Lauren. umklami uMichael Rider "uhamba phambili ekuthatheni" izinduna zendlu ewumfanekiso, lapho ayevame ukusebenza khona iminyaka eyishumi ngaphansi kukaPhoebe Philo. Kodwa kwenzekani ngempela?

U-Hedi Slimane unethrekhi efakazelwe yokwenza kungenzeki kwenzeke. Ngenkathi ethula i-Dior Homme nge-rock aesthtique yakhe, wonke amadoda, kuhlanganise nomklami akanye naye u-Karl Lagerfeld, owalahlekelwa ngamakhilogremu angu-20 ukuze alingane nezithombe zika-Slimane, wayefisa ukugqoka amabhulukwe akhe amancanyana namasudi amancane. Ngemva kweminyaka eyisikhombisa ese-Dior, uSlimane washiya ukuze agxile kweyakhe iphrojekthi yezithombe kodwa wabuyela eminyakeni emihlanu kamuva emfashini njengomqondisi wezobuciko nezithombe e-Saint Laurent (eshiya ingxenye edume kakhulu ethi "Yves" egameni). Lapho, wadala okokuqala ngqa izingubo zabesifazane nezabesilisa. Amaqoqo akhe akhiqize umphumela ofanayo: wonke umuntu wayefuna ukubukeka njenge-grunge ne-chic njengamantombazane nabafana baka-Slimane. Futhi ilethwe eqenjini labazali i-Kering izigidigidi zenzuzo. Kodwa ngemuva kweminyaka emine uHedi Slimane wahoxa emdlalweni wemfashini, waphindela lapho ayengowakhona: ukuthwebula izithombe. Futhi-ke, lapho u-Phoebe Philo ephuma ku-Céline, umklami oyisithonjana wabuya ngokunqoba njengendlalifa yakhe. Ebhapathiza kabusha u-Céline ku-Celine, u-Hedi waphendulela indlu phansi, wethula izingubo zabesilisa namakha, wenza i-rock chic yaseParis yaba yimfashini futhi. Ngoba, yebo, angakwazi!

Ukube ekuqaleni uCeline aficionados bebengabaza ngokuqokwa kuka-Slimane abebengakulindele (amafashionista azohlala ekhumbula izinkulumo-mpikiswano ezishubile phakathi kukaPhilophills namaSlimaniacs ngemuva kokugqashuka kwezindaba zokuqokwa kukaHedi. I-inthanethi), izinombolo ezisanda kushicilelwa yi-LVMH zifakazela ukuthi u-Hedi Slimane ubeyisinqumo esifanele somkhiqizo. Manje uCeline uyilebula lengqephu lesithathu ngobukhulu kuleli qembu elinemali elinganiselwa ku-€2.5 billion, lilandela iziqhwaga zikaDior noLouis Vuitton. Futhi ngezinombolo ezinjalo, akumangazi, ukuthi uSlimane, ongeyena nje umklami ohlakaniphile, kodwa futhi oyipunk enhliziyweni ekwaziyo ukuthatha ubungozi (uyazi, hamba kakhulu, noma uye ekhaya!), uzofuna amandla engeziwe uphawu. Njengoba kungenamali kuphela (ngemuva kwakho konke, yi-LVMH, inkampani yomuntu ocebe kakhulu emhlabeni, ngokusho kweForbes), kodwa ibhalansi yamandla kanye nokubhala kabusha imithetho yomdlalo. Ubani oyoba nokulawula phezu kwakho konke? Isiqondiso sobuciko, umculo, imidiya kanye nenhlanganisela yabathonya? Ingabe uSlimane angakhetha kakhulu kwabezindaba nokukhetha kwakhe isu lokuxhumana? Umklami waziwa ngokugcina iphrofayili ephansi, enqaba izimfuno zenhlolokhono futhi angqubuzane nezihloko ezinkulu ezingamniki ukuchayeka okufanele - kokubili i-Vogue ne-Numéro bavinjelwe ezinhlelweni zakhe, okuhlanganisa nazo zonke izinhlelo zamazwe ngamazwe. Futhi kucatshangelwa ukuthi u-Hedi usezokwethula ulayini we-Celine beauté okade ulindelwe ngo-2025, owamenyezelwa ngesikhathi sombukiso wakamuva oqoshiwe (kwesokudla, amamodeli akuvidiyo abegqoke i-Celine rouge ezindebeni zawo, ehamba ngesithonjana saseParis. izindawo ezifana ne-la Salle Pleyel, le Musée Bourdelle noma i-Musée des Arts Décoratifs), futhi isikhathi esikahle sokuthola okuningi kumqashi ngangokunokwenzeka. Noma shiya amathuba angcono.

UHedi Slimane angaya kuphi ngokulandelayo? I-Chanel ingaba inketho enhle, njengoba uSlimane wayehlale efisa ukubuyela ku-couture (wenze iqoqo elilodwa nje le-couture likaSaint Laurent ngaphambi kokuba ehle esikhundleni). Futhi ungumqambi ozikhethela umqondisi wezobuciko wamanje u-Virginie Viard owandulela uKarl Lagerfeld. Ukwengeza, uma u-Hedi efika e-Chanel, ngokuqinisekile uzokwethula izingubo zabesilisa ezilindelwe isikhathi eside, ezingaba yithuba elihle lokukhula kwendlu eyisithunzi yaseFrance. Kodwa ukwazi uSlimane, nokuthi akalokothi alandele “izinkombandlela zemboni” futhi uvame ukudlala uhlelo ukuze azuze yena kanye nezinzuzo zababambe iqhaza, angase athathe elinye ikhefu kwezemfashini. Phela, akadingi imfashini ukuba iphelele, unezinye izinkanuko: umculo nezithombe. Ekugcineni, imboni yezemfashini emdinga kakhulu.

Umbhalo: Lidia Ageeva