POSTED BY HDFASHION / April 4TH 2024

Paolo Roversi e-Galliera musée de la mode de la ville de Paris

Lona akuwona nje omkhulu – omkhulu kunayo yonke, empeleni – umbukiso womsebenzi kaPaolo Roversi, futhi eyakhe yokuqala eParis, idolobha lapho umsebenzi wakhe wokuba umthwebuli wezithombe zemfashini waqala khona ngo-1973. Lo mbukiso wavulwa emnyuziyamu wemfashini waseParis iPalais Galliera. Abahleli bahlanganisa imisebenzi yezithombe engu-140, kuhlanganise neminye engakaze ibonwe umphakathi ngaphambili, bengeza izinto ezifana nomagazini, izincwadi zokubheka, izimemo ezinezithombe zikaRoversi, kanye nePalaroids yomthwebuli wezithombe. Konke lokhu kwahlanganiswa nguSylvie Lécallier, umnakekeli oyinhloko weqoqo lezithombe zemnyuziyamu. Bethulwa ndawonye okokuqala ngqa njengokugubha iminyaka engu-50 ka-Roversi ethwebula izithombe, babonisa izivakashi lokho okwenzekayo kubuciko bakhe nendlela obusebenza ngayo.

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Imisebenzi eminingi ye-Roversi ngokujwayelekile, futhi ikakhulukazi kulo mbukiso, yizithombe (yize kukhona nezithombe zekhamera ayintandokazi kanye nenja eyodwa mhlawumbe nayo ayintandokazi yakhe, kodwa nazo, nazo izithombe zezinhlobo). Futhi ngenxa yesimo esithile somsebenzi wakhe, izihloko eziningi zezithombe zingamamodeli; usebenze nawo wonke amamodeli emfashini adumile eminyakeni engu-30 edlule, kodwa akavamile ukudubula izithombe zosaziwayo. Kodwa ngisho nalapho edubula amamodeli adumile, akalokothi akhiqize amazwi avamile ajwayelekile emphakathini: akazithayiphi izikhonzi zakhe njengonkulunkulukazi abahehayo, amantombazane adlala ngothando, ama-android angcolile, noma ezinye izinkolelo-ze ezithandwayo. Kwesinye sezingxoxo zakhe, u-Roversi usho lokhu okulandelayo mayelana nobuciko bakhe, nakuba ebiza ngokuthi "ubuchwepheshe", hhayi "ubuciko": "Sonke sinohlobo oluthile lwe-mask of expression. Uvalelisa, uyamamatheka, uyesaba. Ngizama ukususa zonke lezi zimaski futhi kancane kancane ngisuse uze ube nokuthile okuhlanzekile okusele. Uhlobo lokulahla, uhlobo lokungabikho. Kubukeka sengathi akukho, kodwa empeleni uma kukhona lokhu kungenalutho ngicabanga ukuthi ubuhle bangaphakathi buphuma. Lokhu kuyisu lami."

Kate Moss akabukeki njengendlovukazi ye-heroin chic, u-Natalia Vodianova akabukeki njengenyamazane ethukile, futhi u-Stella Tennant akabukeki njenge-Orlando kaVirginia Woolf. Okwenzeka kubo bonke yilokho kanye akushoyo uRoversi: ususa zonke lezi zifihla-buso kuze kusele okuthile okuhlanzekile. Okuxakayo ukuthi, lokhu kuhlukaniswa okudalwe yikhamera yakhe akulikhulisi ibanga phakathi kombukeli namamodeli, kodwa kuyalinciphisa, libasondeze kithi ebuntwini babo, nazo zonke izici zabo zobuntu. Lokhu kubonakala ikakhulukazi ochungechungeni lwe-Nudi, olwaqala ngo-1983 ngesithombe esinqunu sika-Inès de La Fressange seVogue Homme, sadutshulwa ekuphakameni komsebenzi wakhe, wabe eseqhubeka njengephrojekthi yakhe yangasese, lapho athatha khona izithombe ezidumile futhi ezingadumile kangako. amamodeli. Ngaso sonke isikhathi ngendlela efanayo – izithombe ezinqunu, ezinosayizi ogcwele, ezibheke ngqo kukhamera, ngaphansi kokukhanya okuqondile okugcwele ngaphandle kwethunzi, zidutshulwe ngokumnyama nokumhlophe, bese zidutshulwa kabusha ku-20x30 Polaroid – futhi lo mphumela obonakala uqhelelene futhi ohlanganisayo uye udale ukujula okukhethekile nokuzwakalayo. Baqoqwa embukisweni ekamelweni elihlukile - futhi lena mhlawumbe ingxenye yayo ethinta inhliziyo, ngoba le mizimba enqunu ayinakho ukwenza ucansi.

Ngokujwayelekile, u-Roversi uthanda ukusebenza ngekhamera ye-8x10 Polaroid, ifilimu engasenzelwanga, kanye nomthwebuli wezithombe njengoba eshilo ukuthi uthenge yonke into abengayithola. Le khamera isihlotshaniswa nesitayela sakhe esihlukile nesibonakala kakhulu esisebenzisa umbala nokukhanya ukudala umphumela womdwebo. Futhi ngisho nalapho esebenzisa amanye amakhamera, umphumela uba khona. Abaningi bazamile futhi bazama ukukopisha lo mphumela, kodwa umphumela ngokuvamile uba yinto ekhumbuza umsebenzi we-AI. Ubuqiniso bomlingo bokuqala bukaRoversi bungabonakala ngokuningiliziwe embukisweni - ezithombeni zakhe zeVogue France, Vogue Italia, Egoïste, kanye neLuncheon, emikhankasweni yakhe ye-Yohji Yamamoto, Comme des Garcons, kanye noRomeo Gigli. Umsebenzi womthwebuli wezithombe zombukiso u-Ania Martchenko, odale ezimbalwa zesiginesha sakhe esithi trompe-l’œil ngendlela yefasitela noma umnyango ovuleke kancane okhipha ukukhanya, ugcizelela ukusetshenziswa kochwepheshe kokukhanya kokubili ngokomfanekiso nangokomqondo.

Kodwa ukusebenzelana kuka-Paolo Roversi nemfashini, namaqoqo emfashini, kuhluke kakhulu - uthwebula ngendlela eyenza kube isihloko sesibili esithombeni, kodwa izithombe aziyeki ukuba yimfashini. Njengoba ezisho: “Izingubo ziyingxenye enkulu yesithombe semfashini. Kuyingxenye enkulu yendaba. Ngisho noma, kimi, zonke izithombe zemfashini zifana nesithombe - ngibona futhi ngiphatha zonke izithombe njenge-portrait, yowesifazane noma indoda noma umfana - kodwa izingubo zihlala zikhona futhi zingenza incazelo yesithombe kakhulu. kunzima kakhulu.”