Louis Vuitton pre-fall 2024: Isesha umumo kanye nesithunzi

U-Nicolas Ghesquière ubonise iqoqo langaphambi kwekwindla ka-2024 e-Shanghai e-Long Museum West Bund futhi, okumangazayo, bekungelokuqala. défilé eChina eminyakeni yakhe eyi-10 eseLouis Vuitton. Mhlawumbe kwakuwusuku lokukhumbula indlu eyamshukumisela ukuba enze lokhu, kanye nokuphinde avakashele umsebenzi wakhe. Ngoba yilokho kanye okwenziwa eqoqweni lakhe lakamuva - futhi kwenziwa ngendlela ekhiqiza kakhulu.

Okokuqala, kufanele kuqashelwe ukuthi u-Nicolas Ghesquière usondele ekugubheni iminyaka eyishumi e-Louis Vuitton esesimweni esihle kakhulu, mhlawumbe okuhle kakhulu kule minyaka emihlanu edlule. Ngaphezu kwalokho, kulokhu uGhesquier wayesebenza nomdwebi osemusha waseShayina waseShanghai, uSun Yitian, izilwane zakhe ezinjengopopayi - ingwe, ipenguin, unogwaja ophinki ono-LV fleur de lys emehlweni akhe - hlola umqondo othi "Made in China" ukukhiqizwa ngobuningi. Lezi zithombe sezivele ziyabonakala, futhi, yiqiniso, amajazi emoto e-A-line, izingubo ezishintshayo, neziketi ezincane, kanye nezikhwama nezicathulo ezihlotshiswe ngazo, kuzoba amaphuzu avelele eqoqo - futhi iphuzu eliyinhloko lombango phakathi kokubili abaqoqi bemfashini nabathandi bemfashini bebonke. Futhi lokhu kungenye indlela entsha eya ku-Yayoi Kusama, okusobala ukuthi unamandla amakhulu kakhulu okuhweba, kodwa izinga lokukalwa kwayo, ngawo wonke umqondo wegama, selifinyelele imingcele yalo yomlando. Futhi-ke, kungaba kuhle, ngaphezu kwezilwane ezikhathuni ezinhle, ukubona okuthile okungokomfanekiso nokumangalisayo okuvela emsebenzini ka-Sun Yitian, njengenhloko kaMedusa noma inhloko kaKen eyethulwa embukisweni wakhe eParis ekugcineni. ukuwa.

Kodwa into esemqoka, njengenjwayelo nge-Ghesquiere, yenzeka ngaphandle kwendawo yokuhlobisa, kodwa endaweni yokuma — okungukuthi, lapho i-cartoonlike izilwane ziyaphela kanye nezingubo ezakhiwe ngendlela exakile, iziketi ezingalingani, neziketi engathi ziklebhule imisila iziqongo eziqondile ezinde ezingenamikhono ezivalwe ngaphansi komphimbo (beziningi iziketi ezihlukene lapha ngokujwayelekile), amabhulukwe abukeka sengathi okuthile phakathi kwama-bloomers. namabhulukwe e-sarouel, kanye nezikhindi ezinde ezifekethisiwe ze-bermuda ziyaqala. Futhi phakathi kwakho konke lokhu, ezinye izingcezu ngisho nokubukeka okuphelele kwakukhanya lapha nalaphaya, kwaveza umuzwa ofudumele wokuqashelwa: ijakhethi yesikhumba yendiza enoboya, uGhesquière ayenza yashaya ihlombe ekuqaleni kwe-Balenciaga, inhlanganisela yesitshalo esiyisikwele esiyisicaba. phezulu nesiketi esi-asymmetrical esivela eqoqweni lakhe le-Balenciaga SS2013, iqoqo lakhe lokugcina le-Balenciaga. Kulokhu, kube nokukhumbula okwenzekayo kusukela esikhathini esidlule sika-Balenciaga esikhazimulayo kunangaphambili - futhi lokhu kwenza izinhliziyo zabalandeli bakhe besikhathi eside zagubha njalo.

Kodwa i-nostalgia ayikaze ibe yimbangela yomklamo we-Ghesquière. Ngokuphambene nalokho, bekulokhu kuyikusasa, kubheke phambili, hhayi emuva ekufuneni amafomu amasha. Futhi uma ubona uchungechunge lwezingubo zesikhumba eziyisikwele ezisindayo ezinezinsimbi eziyinkimbinkimbi namaphakethe noma uchungechunge lokugcina lwezingubo ze-tulip-skirt, uyabona ukuthi uGhesquiere waqala lonke lolu cwaningo lwamahithi akhe amakhulu phakathi neminyaka yonke namaqoqo hhayi ngenxa yezizathu ezizwakalayo, kodwa. njengokusesha izindlela eziya esikhathini esizayo. Futhi usendleleni vele - izifundo zakhe zokwakheka kanye ne-silhouette kanye nokulungiswa kabusha kwezindawo zakhe zomlando kuqinisekisa lokhu kuphela.

Ngesisa: Louis Vuitton

Umbhalo: Elena Stafyeva