Bulgari在Watches＆Wonders 2025上首次亮相

Just before the show’s opening, news emerged that the LVMH watch division has a new CEO, Jean-Christophe Babin, who will also continue his role as the head of Bulgari. This timing aligned perfectly with Bulgari's debut at Watches & Wonders. Previously, they had showcased their new products in Geneva, but now they have a large, colorful stand at Palexpo for this purpose. Bulgari celebrated the event with a spectacular display of new watches, including some real surprises. Additionally, they featured a mini-exhibition of historical and modern watches and jewelry at their booth.
The entire Bulgari watch structure is supported by two exceptionally strong pillars: Serpenti and Octo Finissimo. These are two remarkable collections, one with a rich history and the other an example of innovation, both of which the house of Bulgari maintains in impeccable condition.

Let's begin with the Octo Finissimo. The most significant announcement from Bulgari at this exhibition is undoubtedly the new Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon, which is the thinnest tourbillon in the world. The race for ultra-thin watches started over a decade ago, and Bulgari has consistently led in this field. The concept of thinness, strategically chosen by Babin for Bulgari men's watch collections, has proven to be a brilliant choice—the current record is the tenth already. Although Richard Mille, Piaget, and Konstantin Chaykin occasionally participate in this competition, Bulgari remains undeterred.

如果去年的Altiplano概念urbillon piaget是以前最薄的陀飞轮，那么当前的保加利车型仅为1.85毫米。实现如此苗条的设计不仅涉及微力学的奇迹（带有新的BVL 900口径）和骨骼化（使手表几乎透明），而且还需要使用高级材料 - 这里的板由碳化通碳化物制成。 Octo Finissimo世界纪录的历史始于2014年，其陀飞轮厚度为1.95毫米。一年前，保加利（Bulgari）介绍了其先前的唱片持有人，即Octo Finissimo Ultra Cosc，厚度为1.7毫米。但是，在八月，康斯坦丁·奇金（Konstantin Chaykin）的原型越过了0.05毫米。尽管如此，Ultra COSC仍然是世界上最薄的串行制作手表。现在，保加利仅增加了0.15毫米，以创建世界上最薄的陀飞轮。尽管我们预计下一个记录将很快得到，但很明显，保加利在展示其创建超薄手表方面的专业知识方面表现出色。此外，制表师对诸如毫米的分数等看似抽象的概念的奉献精神确实令人印象深刻。

陀飞轮并不是W＆W唯一的Octo Finissimo手表。其他值得注意的作品包括永久日历，该日历在2021年创造了薄薄的世界纪录，现在已经以砂光玫瑰金版本发行，以及Octo Finissimo Automat以稀有的沙蓝黄金版本发行。还值得一提的是，在今年布尔加里（Bulgari）颁发的许多令人惊叹的作品中，Octo Finissimo大理石Tourbillon受其大理石手表的启发，这是唯一的手表慈善拍卖，真正脱颖而出。今天的黄金很少见，当与绿色verde di alpi大理石制成的表盘配对时，它会产生一种非常迷人的组合，让人联想到罗马basilicas的柱子和祭坛。

The second part of the Bulgari horological world, the Serpenti Aeterna watch, was equally astonishing. Bulgari's chief watch designer, Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani, has finally transcended the figurative aspects of the iconic historical Serpenti watch, transforming it into a futuristic, streamlined object. “Aeterna is more than a timepiece or jewellery — it is the ultimate expression of Bvlgari’s avant-garde vision. I wanted to capture Serpenti's DNA, distill it to its essence, and project it into the future,” said Fabrizio. The only element reminiscent of a snake is the hexagonal cells on the inside of the gold bracelet, like a distant echo of its scales. Fabrizio pursued this direction intentionally, gradually eliminating all the "snakeness," and was evidently pleased on the opening day of the exhibition, receiving congratulations. So far, only two models have been presented – in pink and white gold with snow pavé of diamonds – but it’s clear that this line will be expanded.

Courtesy: Bvlgari

Text: Elena Stafyeva