Miu Miu FW2024: Ukutshintsha incopho yobuhle

Miuccia Prada ithathe indlela entsha. Oku ayithethi ukuba ifashoni yakhe iba yindawo yobuhle be-clichéd. Akunjalo: yonke into ayenzayo isasekelwe kwingcamango esisiseko yokuba i-cliché yobuhle kufuneka isuswe ngokupheleleyo kwaye iguqulwe. Lo mgaqo uxhasa wonke umsebenzi wakhe njengomyili wefashoni phantse ukuya kuma-40 eminyaka. Kwaye lo ayingomgaqo nje – ngumsebenzi wakhe omkhulu, apho athe waphumelela kwaye usaqhubeka ephumelela. Kwaye kula maxesha onyaka ambalwa adlulileyo, uMiu Miu uye waba ngoyena mseti wetrendi ukuya kuthi ga kwiPrada: ukuba uNkskz Prada ubonise ii-ultra minis kunye ne-ulta croptops ezinezisu eziveliswe phezulu, wonke umntu wayephuma esiya ezitratweni ezinxibile, kwaye ukuba ukhulule imifuziselo ngeepanty, ngoko ngosuku olulandelayo bonke abadumileyo bavele ngenkangeleko efanayo kwikhaphethi ebomvu.

Kwaye kwingqokelela yeMiu Miu FW2024, akuzange kuboniswe nepenti enye, ingacacanga, okanye ihonjiswe, okanye njengebhanti elastiki ekrobe phantsi kombhinqo okanye ibhulukhwe emfutshane, kwaye kwakukho izisu ezimbini ezingenanto. Zazingekho iimini ezininzi kangako, kodwa bekukho iijini ezibhityileyo (kwaye kufanele ukuba silindele ukubuya koloyiso kwisizini ezayo). Yintoni enye eyayingekho le ngqokelela yayizezona zinto sizibonileyo eMiu Miu iminyaka eliqela ilandelelana. Kwaye ke, ngaphandle kweedyasi ezimbalwa ze-puffy, yonke enye into yayingaqinile, ewe, kodwa iphakathi, kwaye iingubo ezintle ze-sheath kunye ne-cutouts kwezona ndawo zingalindelekanga zazifakwe ngokugqibeleleyo. I-Prada ichaze ngokucacileyo uluvo oluye lwahlala lusemoyeni ixesha elide - sidiniwe yi-XXXL, nangona ingenguye wonke umntu olungele ukuphinda anxibe ibhulukhwe ebhityileyo.

Kodwa bekukho iisuti ezininzi. Ukuba sijonga iireferensi apha, ke ezi zisilhouettes zasekupheleni kweminyaka yoo-1950s nasekuqaleni koo-1960, apho uPrada wazolula kwaye wandisa ukuze endaweni yeelokhwe ezincinci, iisuti, kunye needyasi, sifumane izinto ezinobungakanani obupheleleyo. Kwaye lo ngumsebenzi we-virtuoso stylistic kwimemori yefashoni kunye ne-fashion erudition, kuba emva kwezi bhatyi ezide ezinqeni kunye neziketi ezithe ngqo ngaphantsi kwedolo, i-prototypes yazo iphantse ingabonakali, kwaye kuphela umgca wekhola okanye indawo yeepokotho zikhomba. umbukeli onomdla. Kwaye nezona zinto zinomtsalane kuyo yonke ingqokelela - iziketi ezimfumamfuma kwiintyatyambo ezinkulu-zikhangeleka ngathi zingumnqamlezo phakathi kweminyaka yamva kaChristian Dior's New Look kunye ne-Andy Warhol's early pop art. Ngokungathandabuzekiyo, zazidityaniswe nento engaqhelekanga kubo kangangoko kunokwenzeka - iibhatyi zedenim ezimfutshane, iikhati ezisikiweyo ezinithiweyo, iibhuthi zebrutalboots (enye yezinto ezimbalwa ezathi zathwalwa ukusuka kwingqokelela yeMiu Miu yexesha elidlulileyo), kunye neeglavu zesikhumba ezishinyeneyo. zazikhangeleka ngathi zezakwithambeka lokutyibilika. Kwaye i-jean ebhityileyo kunye nezisu eziveziweyo zidityaniswe nengubo yoboya obungeyiyo ekhangeleka ngokwexesha lakudala. Khumbula, i-cliché yobuhle kufuneka isuswe ngokupheleleyo.

Ewe, njengesiqhelo kuPrada, bekukho izinto azithandayo zaseMilanese ezinje ngeekhadigans ezinithiweyo ezinamaqhosha, zombini ezimfutshane kunye nebhatyi, kwaye zinde kwaye zifana nedyasi, bekukho izinto ezenziwe ngesikhumba esirhabaxa. , iithayithi ezinemibala, iihempe neebhatyi zamadoda. Kwaye le nto iPrada ithathe indawo ye-cliché yobuhle ngayo. Kodwa isimbuku sazo zonke ezi zinto asichazi isiphumo esiveliswa yile ngqokelela.

Isiphumo sesokuba ezi mpahla zilungele wonke umntu ngokumangalisayo – ukusuka kwabaselula, ababhityileyo, nabade ukuya kwabadala, abafutshane, kwaye ababhityi tu kwaphela. Babukeka bendalo ngokupheleleyo, nangona ngeendlela ezahlukeneyo, kuzo zombini iimodeli zendlela yeenqwelomoya kunye nomlingisi uKristin Scott-Thomas okanye ugqirha waseTshayina, okwayinkwenkwezi ye-Instagram kunye nomthengi othembekileyo we-Miu Miu. Kuzo zonke, bagxininise ubuntu babo, bahlengahlengisa kubo, kwaye bafumana iindawo zokudibanisa eziyimfuneko.

Nksk. Prada uthi: “Mna ngokwam ndinabalinganiswa abaninzi kum, kwaye ndicinga ukuba abantu abaninzi baneempawu ezahlukeneyo kubo: indawo yobufazi kunye nenxalenye yobudoda, ilula kwaye inzima. " Oku kuyinyaniso kakhulu, kwaye abambalwa abayili bayazi indlela ngobunono kodwa ngokuzithemba ezi zinto ngokwethu ekukhanyeni kwemini, kwaye sibaxhase kakhulu. Kwaye ngamanye amaxesha kubonakala kum ngathi sonke, kunye nabalinganiswa bethu kunye nobuntu bethu, saphuma kwingcinga kaNkskz Prada. Usinike indlela yokuzibonakalisa kwihlabathi - kwaye ngenxa yoko unombulelo ongapheziyo.

Umbhalo: Elena Stafyeva