Louis Vuitton pre-fall 2024: Ukukhangela imilo kunye nesilhouette

UNicolas Ghesquière ubonise ingqokelela yangaphambi kokuwa kuka-2024 eShanghai kwiLong Museum eWest Bund kwaye, ngokumangalisayo, ibiyeyokuqala. défilé eTshayina kwiminyaka yakhe eyi-10 eLouis Vuitton. Mhlawumbi yayiseso sikhumbuzo kanye sendlu eyamkhuthaza ukuba enze oku, kunye nokuphinda ajonge umsebenzi wakhe. Kuba yiloo nto kanye eyenziweyo kwingqokelela yakhe yamva nje - kwaye yenziwe ngeyona ndlela inemveliso. eyona minyaka mihlanu idlulileyo. Ukongeza, ngeli xesha uGhesquier wayesebenza nomzobi omncinci waseTshayina waseShanghai, uSun Yitian, onezilwanyana ezifana nekhathuni - ingwe, i-penguin, i-pink bunny ene-LV fleur de lys emehlweni akhe - hlola ingcamango "Yenziwe eTshayina" imveliso enkulu. Le mifanekiso sele iqondwa, kwaye, ewe, iidyasi zemoto ze-A-line, iilokhwe zokutshintsha, kunye neziketi ezincinci, kunye neengxowa kunye nezihlangu ezihonjiswe ngazo, ziya kuba yeyona nto iphambili kwingqokelela - kwaye ingongoma ephambili yokuxabana phakathi kwabaqokeleli befashoni kunye nabathandi befashoni ngokubanzi. Kwaye le yindlela entsha eya ku-Yayoi Kusama, ngokucacileyo unamandla amakhulu okurhweba, kodwa iqondo lokunyuka kwayo, kuyo yonke ingqiqo yegama, sele ifikelele kwimida yayo yembali. Kwaye, ngokuqinisekileyo, kuya kuba kuhle, ukongeza kwizilwanyana ezithandekayo zekhathuni, ukubona into ethile engumfuziselo kunye nemangalisayo evela kumsebenzi we-Sun Yitian, njengentloko yeMedusa okanye intloko kaKen eyathi yaboniswa kumboniso wakhe eParis ekugqibeleni. ukuwa.

Kodwa eyona nto iphambili, njengesiqhelo ngeGhesquiere, yenzeka ngaphandle kwendawo yokuhombisa, kodwa kwisithuba semilo — eyile, apho ikhathuni ifana nekhathuni. izilwanyana ziyaphela kunye neelokhwe ezakhiwe ngokuntsonkothileyo, iziketi ezingalinganiyo, kunye neziketi ezibonakala ngathi zikrazulwe kwimisila enemikhono emide ethe tye evalwe phantsi komqala (bezininzi iziketi ezihlukeneyo apha ngokubanzi), ibhulukhwe ebonakala ngathi yinto ephakathi kwebloomers. kunye neebhulukhwe ze-sarouel, kunye neebhulukhwe ezimfutshane ezihonjisiweyo zebermuda ziqala. Kwaye phakathi kwayo yonke le nto, ezinye iziqwenga kunye nenkangeleko epheleleyo yadanyaza apha naphaya, ivelisa imvakalelo efudumeleyo yokwamkelwa: ibhatyi ye-aviator yesikhumba enekhola yoboya, eyathi iGhesquière yabetha kwi-aughts yokuqala yaseBalenciaga, indibaniselwano yesityalo esisikweri esithe tyaba. phezulu kunye ne-asymmetrical skirt evela kwingqokelela yakhe ye-Balenciaga SS2013, ingqokelela yakhe yokugqibela ye-Balenciaga. Ngeli xesha, bekukho oko kubuyela emva kwexesha elidlulileyo elizukileyo lika-Balenciaga kunangaphambili - kwaye oku kwenza ukuba iintliziyo zabalandeli bakhe bexesha elide ziphazamiseke.

Kodwa i-nostalgia ayizange ibe yimpembelelo emva koyilo lweGhesquière. Ngokuchasene noko, ibisoloko iyinto ezayo, ijonge phambili, ingabuyi emva ekukhangeleni iifom ezintsha. Kwaye xa ubona uthotho lweevesti zesikhumba esizikweri ezinobunzima obubambekayo kunye neepokotho okanye uluhlu lokugqibela lweelokhwe ze-tulip-skirt, uyaqonda ukuba iGhesquiere iluqale lonke olu phicotho lweengoma zakhe eziphambili kuyo yonke iminyaka kunye nokuqokelelwa hayi ngenxa yezizathu ezivakalayo, kodwa. njengokukhangela iindlela eziya kwixesha elizayo. Kwaye usendleleni sele esendleleni - izifundo zakhe zokumila kunye ne-silhouette kunye nokulungiswa kwakhona kweendawo zakhe zokugcina iinkcukacha kuphela ziqinisekisa oku.

Ngoncedo: Louis Vuitton

Umbhalo: Elena Stafyeva