The Hands of Tod’s

Matteo Tamburini's sophomore season at Tod’s is about “Artisanal Intelligence”. Or, in other words, the unique and priceless savoir-faire that the Maison carries not only in their collections but also physically at the show thanks to a parterre of artisans crafting IRL their iconic Gommino moccasin and a colossal installation by the Italian artist Lorenzo Quinn as a backdrop for the show.

IT’S A PEOPLE'S BUSINESS

Playing with words, the second collection that Tod’s creative director Matteo Tamburini brought to Milan Fashion Week was named “Artisanal Intelligence”. With AI discourse more present than ever in our social lives and work environments, where people are constantly scared of losing their jobs to technology innovations, twisting the focus to a craftsmanlike approach was a strategic win for the brand, bringing their savoir-faire into the spotlight. The hands became the means by which Tod’s cemented the concept, materialising both on the runway and behind the audience. As attendees began to enter the location – the historic Milanese Macchi foundry, revamped for the occasion with a beige carpet acting as the centre stage – they would discover a group of artisans stitching the house's iconic loafer in real life. Watching how a Gommino shoe took shape in their hands paved the way for the show to happen.

AN ARTSY TAKE ON TOD’S PILLARS

Revolving around the same concept of “Artisanal Intelligence”, the Italian sculptor Lorenzo Quinn was invited by Tod’s to create a site-specific artwork through his distinguishable white plaster. That was how two monumental hands took shape on the runway, busy tightening crossed leather ribbons, acting as a symbol of Italian craftsmanship and know-how, running across the stage much further than the sculpture and guiding the models catwalk. The theme of Tod’s spring summer 2025 collection ran seamlessly through the set, serving as a soundboard for the maison's message. “Hands that craft, hands that shape” wrote the brand on its social media pages, once again highlighting how handiwork remains an invaluable feature for fashion, even (and especially) in a world dominated by algorithms – a topic that resonated with many other brands during this season in Milan.

THE MUCH NEEDED TRIP AROUND ITALY

To recount Italian tradition and mastery, Matteo Tamburini designed a Spring-Summer 2025 collection inspired by a long journey on the Mediterranean coasts, where the emblems of Italian lifestyle are centred on a combination of luxury and functionality. Shapes and volumes lose their wintery stiffness to transform themselves into relaxed fits, without losing the timeless elegance that Tod’s stands for. The trench coat, a statement archival piece of the house, becomes fluid and windbreakers make a cameo in this renewed wardrobe. Inspired by stone, sand and the vibrant colours of Italian landscapes, the colour palette revolves around natural tints, such as the green of the meadows, the blue of the seas and the red of the earth. The iconic Gommino loafer remains an indisputable protagonist of the show: in its “Glove” model, where a series of rings side by side form a new distinctive pattern, and in a version with rich leather workmanship, entirely woven by hand. Among the most famous top models who masterfully marched on the catwalk, spotlighting the shoe, was Italian icon Mariacarla Boscono, who was blowing 44 candles that same day.

Courtesy: Tod's

Text: Giorgia Feroldi