Sarudzo yaSlimane: chii chiri kuitika kuCeline?

Kuzungunusa kukuru kwefashoni kungangove kuri kuuya. Zvinoenderana neindasitiri masosi, Hedi Slimane ave kuda kubva kuCeline mushure memakore matanhatu ekugara. Chingava chokwadi here? Uye kana hongu, chii chinotevera kumugadziri wenyeredzi?

Chekutanga, yanga iri Bhizinesi Remafashoni yakaparura nhau yekuti Hedi Slimane anogona kusagara kuCeline nekuda kwe "kutaurirana kwechibvumirano nemuridzi LVMH". Gare gare, WWD yakakuchidzira murazvo nechinhu chevaigona kuzotsiva Slimane, achitaura kuti Polo Ralph Lauren. mugadziri Michael Rider ndiye "anotungamira kutora" mahelms eimba yemifananidzo, kwaakamboshanda kwemakore gumi pasi paPhoebe Philo. Asi chii chiri kunyatsoitika?

Hedi Slimane ane nzira yakasimbiswa yekuita kuti zvisaitike. Paakatangisa Dior Homme nerock aesthtique yake, murume wese, kusanganisira mumwe mugadziri Karl Lagerfeld, uyo akarasikirwa nemakirogiramu makumi maviri kuti akwane mumasikirwo aSlimane, akashuvira kupfekedzwa majean ake akaonda uye masutu matete. Mushure memakore manomwe ari kuDior, Slimane akasiya kuti atarise mapurojekiti ake emifananidzo chete kuti adzoke makore mashanu gare gare kuita fashoni seyekugadzira uye mutungamiriri wemifananidzo kuSaint Laurent (achisiya zvine mukurumbira chikamu che "Yves" kubva pazita). Ikoko, akagadzira kekutanga zvipfeko zvevakadzi nevarume. Zviunganidzo zvake zvakaburitsa zvakafanana: munhu wese aida kutaridzika kunge grunge uye chic sevasikana nevakomana vaSlimane. Uye yakaunzwa kuboka revabereki Kering mabhiriyoni epurofiti. Asi mushure memakore mana Hedi Slimane akasiya mutambo wefashoni, ndokudzokera kwaaive: kutora mafoto. Uye zvino, Phoebe Philo paakabuda Céline, mugadziri wemifananidzo akakunda akadzoka semutsivi wake. Achibhabhatidza zvakare Céline muCeline, Hedi akatendeudzira imba, akatanga zvipfeko zvechirume uye zvinonhuhwirira, uye akagadzira rock chic kubva kuParis fashoni zvakare. Nokuti, hongu, anogona!

Kana pakutanga Celine aficionados vangangove vasina chokwadi nekusarudzwa kwaSlimane kwaisatarisirwa (fashionistas inogara ichirangarira gakava risingaperi pakati pePhilophills naSlimaniacs mushure mekunge nhau dzekudomwa kwaHedi dzapaza. Internet), nhamba dzichangobva kuburitswa neLVMH dzinoratidza kuti Hedi Slimane yaive sarudzo chaiyo yemhando. Iye zvino Celine ndiyo yechitatu pakukura kwemafashoni muboka ine mari inosvika 2.5 bhiriyoni, ichiuya mushure mehofori dzeumbozha Dior naLouis Vuitton. Uye nenhamba dzakadaro, hazvishamisi, kuti Slimane, uyo asiri mugadziri akangwara chete, asiwo punk pamwoyo anoziva kutora njodzi (unoziva, enda hombe, kana kuenda kumba!), achada simba rakawanda pazviri. chiratidzo. Sezvo zvisiri chete pamusoro pemari (mushure mezvose, iLVMH, kambani yemupfumi wepasi, maererano neForbes), asi kuenzana kwesimba nekunyora zvakare mitemo yemutambo. Ndiani achava nesimba pazvinhu zvose? Nzira yekugadzira, mimhanzi, midhiya uye vanofurira musanganiswa? Ko Slimane angatonyanya kusarudzika nevezvenhau uye nesarudzo yake yekutaurirana nzira? Mugadziri anozivikanwa kuchengetedza chimiro chakaderera, kuramba zvinodiwa kubvunzurudza uye kupokana nemazita makuru asingamupi kuratidzwa chaiko - vese Vogue naNuméro vanorambidzwa kubva kumashoo ake, kusanganisira ese epasi rese edhisheni. Uye tichifunga kuti Hedi ave kuda kuburitsa mutsara wakamirirwa kwenguva refu weCeline beauté muna 2025, wakaziviswa panguva yechangobva kuitika yakatepwa show (kurudyi, mamodheru ari muvhidhiyo anga akapfeka Celine rouge pamiromo yavo, vachifora nemifananidzo yeParisian. nzvimbo dzakaita seLa Salle Pleyel, le Musée Bourdelle kana le Musée des Arts Décoratifs), ndiyo zvakare nguva yakakwana yekuwana zvakawanda kubva kumushandirwi sezvinobvira. Kana kusiya mikana iri nani.

Hedi Slimane angaendepi? Chanel ingave sarudzo yakanaka, sezvo Slimane aigara achishuvira kudzokera kucouture (akangoita muunganidzwa wecouture weSaint Laurent asati aburuka). Ndiye zvakare mugadziri wesarudzo yeazvino mhizha director Virginie Viard akatangira Karl Lagerfeld. Pamusoro pezvo, kana Hedi akauya kuChanel, anonyatso kuburitsa zvipfeko zvevarume zvakamirirwa kwenguva refu, zvingave mukana wakanaka wekukura kweiyo iconic French imba. Asi nekuziva Slimane, uye kuti haamboteedzere "maindasitiri nhungamiro" uye anowanzo tamba iyo sisitimu kuti awane mabhenefiti ake uye purofiti, anogona kungotora imwe zororo kubva mufashoni. Mushure mezvose, haadi fashoni kuti ave akakwana, ane zvimwe zvaanoda: mimhanzi nemifananidzo. Pakupedzisira, ndiyo indasitiri yemafashoni inomuda zvakanyanya.

Mashoko: Lidia Ageeva