Paolo Roversi muGalliera musée de la mode de la ville de Paris

Iri haringori hombe - hombe, chaizvo - kuratidzwa kwebasa raPaolo Roversi, zvakare. yake yekutanga muParis, guta iro basa rake semupikicha wefashoni rakatanga muna 1973. Chiratidziro chakavhurwa muParisian fashion museum Palais Galliera. Varongi vakaunganidza 140 mabasa emifananidzo, kusanganisira mamwe asati amboonekwa neveruzhinji, vakawedzera zvinhu zvakaita semagazini, mabhuku ekutarisa, kukoka nemifananidzo yeRoversi, uye Palaroids yemutori wemifananidzo. Zvese izvi zvakaunganidzwa naSylvie Lécallier, mukuru muchengeti wemuunganidzwa wemifananidzo wemuseum. Vanoratidzwa pamwe chete kekutanga semhemberero yemakore makumi mashanu eRoversi mukutora mifananidzo, vanoratidza vashanyi izvo zvinopinda muunyanzvi hwake uye kuti hunoshanda sei.

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Mazhinji emabasa eRoversi kazhinji, uye kunyanya pashoo iyi, mifananidzo (kunyangwe paine mapikicha ekamera yake yaanofarira uye imbwa imwe pamwe yaanofarirawo, asi ivowo, varipo. mifananidzo yemhando). Uye nekuda kwechimiro chaicho chebasa rake, ruzhinji rwezvidzidzo zvemifananidzo mienzaniso; akashanda nemhando dzose dzefashoni dzakakurumbira dzemakore makumi matatu apfuura, asi haawanzopfura mifananidzo yevanhu vane mukurumbira. Asi kunyangwe kana achipfura mamodheru ane mukurumbira, haafe akaburitsa clichés anozivikanwa kune veruzhinji: haatape vanhu vake sevamwarikadzi vanoyevedza, vasikana vane rudo, androgynous androids, kana mamwe maitiro akakurumbira. Mune imwe yekubvunzurudza kwake, Roversi anotaura zvinotevera nezveunyanzvi hwake, kunyange zvazvo anozvidana "technique", kwete "unyanzvi": "Tese tine rudzi rwemasiki ekutaura. Unoti zvakanaka, unonyemwerera, unotya. Ini ndinoedza kubvisa masiki ese aya uye zvishoma nezvishoma kubvisa kusvikira wasara nechinhu chakachena. Rudzi rwekusiya, rudzi rwekusavapo. Zvinoita sekunge kusipo, asi chokwadi kana paine kusava nechinhu ichi ndinofunga kunaka kwemukati kunobuda. Iyi ndiyo nzira yangu."

Kate Moss haataridzike samambokadzi weheroin chic, Natalia Vodianova haataridzike segwara rinotya, uye Stella Tennant haaratidzike seOrlando yaVirginia Woolf. Chii chinoitika kwavari vese ndizvo chaizvo zvakataurwa naRoversi: anobvisa masiki ese aya kusvikira chinhu chakachena chasara. Sezvineiwo, kusabatanidzwa uku kwakagadzirwa nekamera yake hakukwidzi chinhambwe pakati pemuoni nemamodheru, asi kunodzikisira, kuvaswededza pedyo nesu muhunhu hwavo, nehumwe hunhu hwavo hwese. Izvi zvinonyanya kucherechedzwa muNudi series, iyo yakatanga muna 1983 ine mushwi mufananidzo waInès de La Fressange weVogue Homme, akapfurwa pakukwirira kwebasa rake, ndokuzoenderera mberi sechirongwa chake chakavanzika, kwaakapfura ane mukurumbira uye asina mukurumbira. mienzaniso. Nguva dzose nenzira imwechete - yakashama, mapikicha akazara, akatarisa mukati mekamera, pasi pechiedza chakazara chakazara pasina mimvuri, akapfurwa mutema nemuchena, uyezve kupfurwa pa20x30 Polaroid - uye izvi zvinoita kunge zviri kure uye kubatanidza zvinokonzeresa. yakagadzira kudzika kwakakosha uye kutaura. Vanounganidzwa pazviratidziro mune imwe kamuri yakaparadzana - uye ichi ndicho chikamu chayo chinonyanya kubata, nekuti miviri iyi yakashama haina chero kuita zvepabonde.

Kazhinji, Roversi anofarira kushanda ne 8x10 Polaroid kamera, iyo firimu iyo isingachagadzirirwe zvakare, uye mutori wemifananidzo sezvaakataura akatenga zvese zvaaigona kuwana. Iyi kamera yasvika pakubatanidzwa nechimiro chake chakasiyana uye chinonyatso zivikanwa chinoshandisa ruvara uye chiedza kugadzira mhedzisiro yependi. Uye kunyange paanoshandisa mamwe makamera, mugumisiro uripo. Vazhinji vakaedza uye vari kuyedza kutevedzera iyi mhedzisiro, asi mhedzisiro inowanzova chinhu chinoyeuchidza nezvebasa reAI. Roversi yepakutanga yemashiripiti echokwadi inogona kuoneka zvakadzama pashoo - mumifananidzo yake yeVogue France, Vogue Italia, Egoïste, uye Luncheon, mumakwikwi ake eYohji Yamamoto, Comme des Garcons, uye Romeo Gigli. Basa remugadziri wezviratidziro wezviratidziro Ania Martchenko, akagadzira siginicha yake yakati kuti trompe-l’œil nenzira yefafitera kana kuti gonhi rakavhurika zvishoma rinobudisa chiedza, rinosimbisa kushandiswa kwechiedza natenzi zvose dimikira uye sezvariri.

Asi kudyidzana kwaPaolo Roversi nefashoni, nekuunganidzwa kwefashoni, kwakasarudzika - anopfura nenzira inoita kuti ive yechipiri chidzidzo chemufananidzo, asi mafoto haaregi kuve fashoni. Sezvaanotaura pachake: "Mhemberero chikamu chikuru chemufananidzo wefashoni. Icho chikamu chikuru chechidzidzo. Kunyange kana, kwandiri, mifananidzo yose yefashoni yakafanana nemufananidzo - ndinoona uye ndinobata chifananidzo chese semufananidzo, wemukadzi kana murume kana mukomana - asi zvipfeko zvinogara zviripo uye zvinogona kuita kududzirwa kwechifananidzo zvakanyanya. zvakanyanya kuoma."

Courtesy: © Paolo Roversi

Chinyorwa: Elena Stafyeva