Zosankha za Slimane: chikuchitika ndi chiyani kwa Celine?

Kugwedezeka kwakukulu kumabwera. Malinga ndi magwero amakampani, Hedi Slimane watsala pang'ono kuchoka ku Celine atakhala zaka zisanu ndi chimodzi. Zingakhale zoona? Ndipo ngati inde, chotsatira ndi chiyani kwa wopanga nyenyezi?

Choyamba, chinali Bizinesi Yamafashoni zomwe zidamveka kuti Hedi Slimane sangakhale ku Celine chifukwa cha "mkangano waminga ndi mwini wake LVMH". Kenako, WWD idayatsa moto ndi mawonekedwe okhudza omwe angalowe m'malo mwa Slimane, ponena kuti Polo Ralph Lauren. wojambula Michael Rider ndiye "wotsogolera kuti atenge" zitsogozo za nyumba yodziwika bwino, yomwe ankagwira ntchito kwa zaka khumi pansi pa Phoebe Philo. Koma chikuchitika ndichani kwenikweni?

Hedi Slimane ali ndi mbiri yotsimikizika yopanga zosatheka. Pamene adayambitsa Dior Homme ndi rock aesthtique yake, mwamuna aliyense, kuphatikizapo wojambula mnzake Karl Lagerfeld, yemwe modziwika bwino anataya makilogalamu 20 kuti agwirizane ndi silhouettes za Slimane, ankafuna kuvala jeans yake yopyapyala ndi masuti ang'onoang'ono. Atatha zaka zisanu ndi ziwiri ku Dior, Slimane adasiya kuyang'ana pazithunzi zake zokha kuti abwererenso zaka zisanu pambuyo pake kukhala wotsogolera komanso wotsogolera zithunzi ku Saint Laurent (kusiya gawo lodziwika bwino la "Yves" pa dzina). Kumeneko, adalenga kwa nthawi yoyamba zonse zovala za akazi ndi amuna. Zosonkhanitsa zake zidapanganso chimodzimodzi: aliyense ankafuna kuoneka ngati asungwana ndi anyamata a Slimane. Ndipo anabweretsa ku gulu la makolo Kering mabiliyoni a phindu. Koma patapita zaka zinayi Hedi Slimane anasiya masewera a mafashoni, ndipo anabwerera kumene iye anali: kujambula. Kenako, Phoebe Philo atatuluka ku Céline, wojambulayo adabweranso ngati wolowa m'malo mwake. Pobatizanso Céline kukhala Celine, Hedi adatembenuza nyumbayo mozondoka, ndikuyika zovala zachimuna ndi zonunkhira, ndikupangitsa kuti rock yowoneka bwino ya ku Paris ikhalenso yapamwamba. Chifukwa, inde, akhoza!

Ngati poyamba Celine aficionados akanakayikira za kusankhidwa kwa Slimane mosayembekezeka (mafashoni nthawi zonse azikumbukira mikangano yosatha pakati pa Philophills ndi Slimaniacs pambuyo poti nkhani yosankhidwa kwa Hedi idasweka. Internet), manambala omwe adasindikizidwa posachedwa ndi LVMH amatsimikizira kuti Hedi Slimane analidi chisankho choyenera pamtunduwo. Tsopano Celine ndiye wachitatu pagulu lalikulu la mafashoni omwe ali ndi ndalama zokwana €2.5 biliyoni, akubwera pambuyo pa zimphona zapamwamba Dior ndi Louis Vuitton. Ndipo ndi ziwerengero zotere, sizodabwitsa kuti Slimane, yemwe si wojambula wanzeru, komanso punk pamtima yemwe amadziwa kutenga zoopsa (mukudziwa, kupita kwambiri, kapena kupita kunyumba!), adzafuna mphamvu zambiri chizindikiro. Monga sizongokhudza ndalama zokha (pambuyo pake, ndi LVMH, kampani ya munthu wolemera kwambiri padziko lapansi, malinga ndi Forbes), koma kulinganiza kwa mphamvu ndikulembanso malamulo a masewerawo. Ndani adzakhala ndi ulamuliro pa chilichonse? Mayendedwe opangira, nyimbo, zoulutsira mawu ndi osonkhezera kusakanikirana? Kodi Slimane angakhale wosankha kwambiri ndi media komanso njira zake zoyankhulirana? Wopangayo amadziwika kuti amakhala ndi mbiri yotsika, kukana zofunsa mafunso ndikukangana ndi maudindo akuluakulu omwe samamupatsa mawonekedwe oyenera - onse a Vogue ndi Numéro amaletsedwa pazowonetsa zake, kuphatikiza zolemba zapadziko lonse lapansi. Ndipo poganizira kuti Hedi watsala pang'ono kukhazikitsa mzere wokongola wa Celine mu 2025, womwe udalengezedwa pawonetsero waposachedwa kwambiri (kumanja, zitsanzo zomwe zili muvidiyoyi zidavala Celine Rouge pamilomo yawo, kuguba mwachiwonetsero cha Parisian. Malo monga la Salle Pleyel, le Musée Bourdelle kapena le Musée des Arts Décoratifs), ndi nthawi yabwino yopezera zambiri kuchokera kwa olemba ntchito momwe mungathere. Kapena kusiya mwayi wabwinoko.

Kodi Hedi Slimane angapite kuti? Chanel ingakhale njira yabwino, popeza Slimane nthawi zonse ankalakalaka kubwereranso ku couture (adangopanga chojambula chimodzi chokha cha Saint Laurent asanatsike). Ndiwopanganso kusankha kwa wotsogolera waluso wamakono Virginie Viard yemwe adatsogolera Karl Lagerfeld. Kuonjezera apo, ngati Hedi abwera ku Chanel, ndithudi adzayambitsa zovala zachimuna zomwe zikuyembekezeredwa kwa nthawi yaitali, zomwe zingakhale mwayi wabwino wa kukula kwa nyumba yodziwika bwino ya ku France. Koma podziwa Slimane, komanso kuti samatsatira "zowongolera zamafakitale" ndipo amakonda kusewera dongosololi kuti apindule ndi phindu lake komanso mapindu okhudzidwa, atha kungopumanso ku mafashoni. Pambuyo pake, safuna kuti mafashoni akhale athunthu, ali ndi zilakolako zina: nyimbo ndi kujambula. Pamapeto pake, ndi makampani opanga mafashoni omwe amamufuna kwambiri.

Mawu: Lidia Ageeva