Louis Vuitton pre-fall 2024: Posaka mawonekedwe ndi silhouette

Nicolas Ghesquière wawonetsa zosonkhanitsira zisanakwane za 2024 ku Shanghai ku Long Museum West Bund ndipo, chodabwitsa, inali yoyamba. défilé ku China m'zaka zake 10 ku Louis Vuitton. Mwinamwake chinali chaka chomwecho ndi nyumba yomwe inamulimbikitsa kuchita izi, komanso kuyambiranso ntchito yake. Chifukwa ndizo ndendende zomwe zidachitika m'gulu lake laposachedwa - ndipo zidachitika m'njira yopindulitsa kwambiri.

Choyamba, ziyenera kudziwidwa kuti Nicolas Ghesquière adayandikira zaka zake khumi ku Louis Vuitton mu mawonekedwe abwino kwambiri, mwina zabwino kwambiri pazaka zisanu zapitazi. Kuphatikiza apo, nthawi ino Ghesquier anali kugwira ntchito ndi wojambula wachinyamata wachi China wochokera ku Shanghai, Sun Yitian, yemwe nyama zake zonga zojambula - nyalugwe, penguin, bunny pinki ndi LV fleur de lys m'maso mwake - fufuzani lingaliro la "Made in China" kupanga zochuluka. Zithunzizi zimadziwika kale, ndipo, ndithudi, malaya amoto a A-line, madiresi osinthika, ndi masiketi ang'onoang'ono, komanso matumba ndi nsapato zokongoletsedwa nazo, zidzakhala zofunikira kwambiri pazosonkhanitsa - ndi mkangano waukulu pakati pa osonkhanitsa mafashoni ndi okonda mafashoni onse. Ndipo iyi ndi njira ina yatsopano kwa Yayoi Kusama, yemwe ali ndi kuthekera kwakukulu pazamalonda, koma kuchuluka kwa makulitsidwe ake, m'lingaliro lililonse la mawu, wafika kale malire ake. Ndipo, ndithudi, zingakhale zodabwitsa, kuwonjezera pa zinyama zokongola zojambula, kuwona chinthu china chophiphiritsira komanso chochititsa chidwi kuchokera ku ntchito ya Sun Yitian, monga mutu wa Medusa kapena mutu wa Ken zomwe zinaperekedwa pachiwonetsero chake ku Paris komaliza. kugwa.

Koma chinthu chachikulu, monga nthawi zonse ndi Ghesquiere, chimachitika kunja kwa malo okongoletsera, koma mu danga la mawonekedwe - ndiko, kumene zojambula zojambula nyama zimathera ndi madiresi opangidwa modabwitsa, masiketi osakanikirana, ndi masiketi omwe amawoneka ngati akung'ambika mchira ndi nsonga zowongoka zopanda manja zotsekedwa pansi pa mmero (panali masiketi ambiri osiyanasiyana apa), mathalauza omwe amawoneka ngati chinachake pakati pa maluwa. ndi mathalauza a sarouel, ndipo akabudula aatali okongoletsedwa a bermuda amayamba. Ndipo pakati pa zonsezi, zidutswa zina komanso mawonekedwe athunthu adawoneka apa ndi apo, kutulutsa chisangalalo chodziwika: jekete lachikopa la ndege yokhala ndi kolala yaubweya, yomwe Ghesquière adachita kugunda koyambirira kwa Balenciaga, kuphatikiza kwa mbewu yosalala. pamwamba ndi siketi ya asymmetrical kuchokera m'gulu lake la Balenciaga SS2013, chopereka chake chomaliza cha Balenciaga. Panthawiyi, panali zowoneka bwino kwambiri kuchokera ku mbiri yakale ya Balenciaga kuposa kale lonse - ndipo izi zinapangitsa kuti mitima ya omwe amamukonda nthawi yayitali igwedezeke modzidzimutsa.

Koma mphuno siinayambe yakhala ikuyendetsa mapangidwe a Ghesquière. M'malo mwake, nthawi zonse zakhala zamtsogolo, kuyang'ana kutsogolo, osati kubwerera kufunafuna mawonekedwe atsopano. Ndipo mukawona zovala zolemera zachikopa zokhala ndi zomangira zovuta komanso matumba kapena mndandanda womaliza wa madiresi a tulip, mumazindikira kuti Ghesquiere adayamba kuwunika konseku kwa kugunda kwake kwakukulu kwazaka zonse ndikusonkhanitsa osati pazifukwa zamalingaliro, koma. monga kufunafuna njira zamtsogolo. Ndipo ali m'njira kale - maphunziro ake a mawonekedwe ndi masilhouette ndi kukonzanso zakale zake zimangotsimikizira izi.

Mwachilolezo: Louis Vuitton

Mawu: Elena Stafyeva