Chanel FW2024: Un homme et une femme by Chanel

Dziko la Chanel ndi dziko lamalingaliro osasunthika, okhala ndi zosinthika zochepa komanso zingapo zokhazikika, ndipo izi zimapatsa kukhazikika kwambiri komanso kuzindikirika kodabwitsa. Pa chiwonetsero chilichonse cha Chanel, padzakhala tweed nthawi zonse, padzakhala camellias, padzakhala ngale, malamba aunyolo, nsapato za beige zokhala ndi kapu yakuda. Kutali ndi nyumba iliyonse yamafashoni ku Paris, kapena mtundu uliwonse wamtengo wapatali, ili ndi zosungidwa bwino komanso zosungidwa mwadongosolo, pomwe chilichonse chimayikidwa m'mabokosi ake ndi mashelufu. Chanel, motsogozedwa ndi Karl Lagerfeld, adagwira ntchito yomanga kachisi wangwiroyu kwa zaka zambiri komanso zikafika polumikizana ndi zomwe zimadziwika kuti heritage ndi DNA mtunduwo ndi wosayerekezeka. Virginie Viard, yemwe adalowa m'malo mwa Karl ngati director director, adachitanso bwino kwambiri pa izi ndipo adapeza njira yakeyake yogwirira ntchito ndi cholowa cha Chanel.

Chizindikiro chinanso padziko lapansi. ya Chanel ndi maulendo: malo onse olembedwa mwanjira ina m'mbiri ya Maison Chanel akhala nthawi zonse mitu yazosonkhanitsa ndi ziwonetsero zamafashoni. Riviera, Biarritz, Venice, Great Britain - zonsezi zakonzedwa mwanjira ina m'madipatimenti onse, kuchokera ku zojambula za metier d'art kapena maulendo apanyanja kupita ku zonunkhiritsa. Koma Chanelknows momwe angapezere njira zatsopano zogwirira ntchito ndi geography yake. Mu nyengo ya FW2024, iyi ndi Deauville, yomwe tonse tikudziwa kuti inalipo pomwe Gabrielle Chanel, yemwe adayamba ngati milliner, adatsegula sitolo yake yoyamba ya zipewa. Karl Lagerfeld ngakhale anali ndi filimu yochepa pamutuwu, pomwe Chanel adasewera ndi Keira Knightley. Koma nthawi ino Virginie Viard sanakumbukire Mademoiselle mwiniwake, koma filimu yowoneka ngati yosagwirizana ndi Claude Lelouch, Un homme et une femme. Monga tikudziwira, zina mwazithunzi zake zodziwika bwino zimachitika ku Deauville. Ndipo adapanganso filimu yakeyake - kuitana Inez ndi Vinoodh kuti apangenso pang'ono ziwonetsero zoyambilira za ku Deauville za Un homme et une femme, wokhala ndi Brad Pitt ndi Penelope Cruz.

Iye anali atachita kale zofanana osati kale kwambiri ndi L'année dernière à Marienbad wa Alain Resnais, zomwe Gabrielle Chanel adapanga zovalazo ndipo adabwezeretsedwa ndi chithandizo cha Chanel, koma panalibe filimu yayifupi panthawiyo, ndipo nthawi ino. lingalirolo linali lovuta kwambiri. Ndipo kotero, Pitt ndi Cruz wakuda ndi woyera akuyendayenda m'mphepete mwa nyanja yaikulu ya Deauville pamtunda wochepa, akuyenda mumsewu wodziwika bwino wamatabwa wokhala ndi mayina a nyenyezi za ku Hollywood pamasinthidwe osintha makabati, amadyera kumalo odyera ku Le Normandy hotelo, Chikwama cha Chanel 2.55 chitakhala patebulo pakati pawo — ndendende momwe chidakhalira pakati pa Jean-Louis Trintignant ndi Anouk Aimee mu Un homme et une femme yoyambirira. Iyi ndi njira ya Virginie Viard yotengera cholowa cha Chanel.

Ponena za kusonkhanitsa, nthawi ino panalidi ma tweed ambiri, monga chizindikiro chosangalatsa. za nyengo, zomwe nthawi zina zidatsala pang'ono kusiya mayendedwe, koma osati ku Chanel. Panali zovala zambiri zoluka, monga majuzi ndi ma cardigans ku Deauville seagull prints, zoluka zakuda zokhala ndi thalauza lalitali ndi ma cardigan okhala ndi mabatani okhala ndi tinthu ta beige, komanso kuphatikiza kokongola kwa sweti ya asodzi yamtundu wa ecru yokhala ndi siketi yoluka yoluka. wa mtundu wofanana ndi lamba wachikopa wofiirira kuti azimveketsa bwino m’chiuno.

Koma mawonekedwe ochititsa chidwi a gululi anali ndi zipewa — polemekeza Chanel the milliner, ndi zipewa izi, zazikulu, zokhala ndi mphuno zazikulu, zinali kukumbukira zomwe zili mufilimu ya Lagerfeld yokhudza Chanel wamng'ono ndi boutique yake yoyamba. Zitsanzo zabwino kwambiri za m'ma 1970, ndipo kuphatikiza uku - malaya aatali ndi chipewa chopepuka chachilimwe - sichinangokhala chiwonetsero chazosonkhanitsa zonse, koma mawonekedwe atsopano. Chabwino, ngakhale m'dziko lokonzedwa bwino la tweed ndi camellias zinthu zosayembekezereka zimachitika.

Mawu: Elena Stafyeva