POSTED BY HDFASHION / August 30TH 2024

Inside “Yours Truly” by Peter Jensen

Peter Jensen is a Danish fashion legend. But he made his career outside of his native Copenhagen, moving to London to do a Master's at Central Saint Martins and later establish his own brand. He sold it five years ago to take a break from fashion and focus on passing his knowledge to the new generation of designers in Atlanta, where he serves as a chair of fashion at Savannah College of Art and Design. Twenty-seven years later Jensen is back to his city of origin, with a presentation on the official schedule of Copenhagen Fashion Week. For his new project called “Yours Truly”, the designer staged an intimate presentation at a gallery space at Gammel Strand with his friends (Nina Persson from the Cardigans modelled among the other “older fashion ladies”, while artist Julie Verhoeven and stylist Jacob K helped him with the showcase), which felt more like a tea o’clock in the sunny afternoon than a regular fashion outing. We caught up with Peter Jensen in Copenhagen, where he gave us an insider look into his new project and explained how he plans to revolutionise the world of fashion. 

How does it feel to be back in Copenhagen? And why of all the Fashion weeks did you choose Copenhagen Fashion Week?

Brilliant! After more than twenty-seven years of living and working in London and Atlanta, I brought my quirky, ultra-Danish style back to Copenhagen to introduce "Yours Truly", along with its first collection — a fusion of sustainable fashion and emerging artistry, rooted in an aesthetic influenced by the homespun and folkloric. The work for the spring-summer 2025 collection is more a project or an art piece if you like put together from ideas of drawings, fabrics, stories etc. For me, "Yours Truly" is more than just a display of clothing. It's a platform for change — a call to action for an industry in need of renewal, challenges industry norms and celebrates the soul of individuality and empowerment. It's not merely about fashion; it's about redefining the essence of design. So Copenhagen Fashion Week was a perfect fit for the project and the ideas behind it. And I do really respect what CPHFW stands for with sustainability requirements, supporting young talents (Nicklas Skovgaard is just completely brilliant!) and balancing them with larger, mainstream brands, creating the perfect contrast. It also gave me an excuse to come home and see my mum! (laughs)

Tell us more about the collection. What is your inspiration behind it?
I have been working on it for over the last two years. It is a project which started over the lockdown when I just sat down and started using my sewing machine once again. And it moved on from there and into an almost full collection. The inspiration comes from a few places and ideas: there is a dress made out of tea towels, a cape constructed out of wigs and vintage Burberry coats customised with embroidery, a nod to the time I spent living in London. My pain point of reference is the 17th-century portraits of powerful women. Each piece narrates a story of strength and individuality, celebrating women over 45 and their place in the world. In a genuinely sustainable manner, the collection also utilises responsibly sourced materials, organic cotton and silks from Europe. I also looked for artisans worldwide, so my first collection includes pieces by hand-knitting artist Jenny Richie, known for her expertise in sustainable fashion. Fashion is about collaboration, you can’t be good at everything.

Why did you decide to make a bet on an older casting?

All my models, including Nina, were ladies over 45, and the oldest one just turned 87. I wanted to celebrate beautiful, older women with a full life, humour, and love. With knowledge, wisdom, and a life behind them. In other words, my aim was to have all the focus during the presentation on women who have lived a full life.

 

You worked with a few of your friends on this collection. Julie Verhoeven helped you with the showcase, Jacob K did the styling, and Nina Persson from the Cardigans modelled for you.

Oh gosh, we have all known one another for around 20 or even 30 years. Jacob K and I met in 1995 when we both lived in Copenhagen. Then both of us moved to London at the same time, and as they say, the rest is history. Julie and I met when we studied at Central Saint Martins, we became friends and have done a lot of work together after. I met Nina in London at the beginning of the noughties, and we have been friends ever since. We get one another and have the same point of view of the world. I love working with people who know what I want, but who also take the place in my project and are not scared to say to me: “Ah! That does not work! You, stupid man!” (laughs). This is how I wanted my first presentation to look like. And I am happy with the result.

 

“Your Truly” started with a presentation format, which was a highlight of the busy CPHFW. Are you planning to stage a catwalk show next time? What’s your vision of the show dilemma?

I have no plans for a catwalk show. I believe this format is dated and is only for people selling handbags, t-shirts etc. I want to get back to what is better. Ideas, thoughts. I believe it is time for us designers to take back power, and tell the “experts” within the industry to shut up and listen. I want to be the one who is setting the agenda, I want to be in control and I want to play and have ideas which are not always finished but are in development.

Courtesy: Yours Truly

Text: Lidia Ageeva