Rau nws qhov thib peb tawm mus rau Gucci - nws thawj zaug caij nkoj sau thiab nws thawj zaug ua yeeb yam sab nraum Milan - Sabato De Sarno coj cov neeg nyiam zam rov qab mus rau Maison's London cov hauv paus.
Gucci yog ib lub zog ntawm Italian zam. Txawm li cas los xij, nws keeb kwm pib hauv London, qhov twg lub tsev tus tsim Guccio Gucci tau ua haujlwm raws li tus tub lub nra ntawm Hotel Savoy thaum tig ntawm lub xyoo pua 20th. Nws yog nyob ntawd, tias cov tub ntxhais hluas ua lag luam zam muaj lub tswv yim zoo los pib nws lub lag luam lub nra hauv Florence. Thiab qhov seem yog keeb kwm.
Yog li thaum tam sim no tus thawj coj muaj tswv yim Sabato De Sarno tshaj tawm tias nws thawj Cruise collection yuav tshwm sim hauv Tate Modern hauv London, tsis muaj leej twg coj nws los ntawm kev xav tsis thoob. Ob peb hnub ua ntej qhov yeeb yam, cov cim London-style zoo li Little Simz thiab Kate Moss teased qhov yeeb yam ntawm Gucci lub social platforms. Tseeb, leej twg tuaj yeem incarnate London nyob rau hauv xws li iconic txoj kev? Sabato De Sarno tau tshaj tawm cov vis dis aus, ib yam nkaus: kev sib tw ntawm nws nyiam "lub neej tiag tiag" London lub sijhawm, hais tias "Rau txhua lub sijhawm koj qhib kuv qhov kev xav hauv ntiaj teb. Rau txhua tus neeg uas xav tib yam hauv London. Cia peb ua koob tsheej." Thiab yog li ntawd nws tau ua, caw nws cov qhua tuaj rau Tate Modern lub tsev ua vaj tse, embellished nrog cov nroj tsuag, moss thiab txhua hom zaub ntsuab rau lub ntees (tsis muaj kev txhawj xeeb, tag nrho lawv yuav raug pub dawb tom qab ua yeeb yam rau cov phiaj xwm hauv zej zog).
Cov qauv taug kev hauv lub hnab ris tsho styled nrog cov blazers ntse thiab lub tsho dawb crispy mus rau lub suab nrov ntawm lub remix ntawm Blondie's timeless "Lub plawv iav". Tus thawj hu nkauj ntawm pab pawg, Debbie Harry tau tuaj koom, tau kawg, thiab lub hnab Blondie tshiab tau mob siab rau nws. Lwm qhov, lub hnub qub hauv ntej suav nrog Kate thiab Lila Moss, Demi Moore, Dua Lipa, Solange Knowles, Adèle Exarchopoulos, Paul Mescal, François Civil, thiab Mark Ronson - aka tus txiv neej qab tag nrho-mega Gucci soundtracks hauv De Sarno era; Yog hais tias Mina's hit song Ancora yog nyob rau hauv koj playlist, nws ua tsaug rau nws.
Nyob rau ntawm lub catwalk, kuj muaj ntau cov xim av suede, flats nrog punkish studs, pearls thiab micro-shorts (Sabato nyiam, a kos npe pom nyob rau hauv tag nrho nws peb collections rau Gucci). Thiab ib tus tsis tuaj yeem pab tab sis pom Gucci liab zoo li - xim ntawm cherry thiab burgundy, uas tau dhau los ua lub cim ntawm Sabato De Sarno lub sijhawm nyob hauv tsev, pom txhua qhov chaw los ntawm cov hnab yuav khoom mus rau cov khoom tseem ceeb. Sheer pussy hneev blouses kuj muaj ntau - tos ib pliag, nws puas yog qhov rov qab rau Michele era? Cov ntawv sau qhia tau hais tias kev sib hlub, yog li kuv twv lawv ua si ntawm "romanticwear". Tab sis tej zaum, yav tsaus ntuj zoo li yog qhov muaj zog tshaj plaws, xav tias ilv organza saum thiab hnav khaub ncaws nyob rau hauv cov kaus ntxhw embellished nrog daisies, cov khaub ncaws yav tsaus ntuj tsis zoo nrog cov tsho tawv loj ntxiv thiab cocktail dresses adorned nrog fringes ntawm hlaws dai uas zoo li London raindrops.
Hnub yav tsaus ntuj txuas ntxiv hauv Turbine Hall, nthuav tawm cov lus ntawm Mustafa tus kws sau paj lug ua ntawv dawb, uas npog hauv pem teb, hloov mus ua seev cev. London yog txhua yam hais txog lub zog ntawm cov tub ntxhais hluas, yog li txawm tias cov tub ntxhais kawm zam tau raug caw tuaj koom IRL (lawv saib cov yeeb yam ntawm cov yeeb yaj kiab, txawm li cas los xij). Cov zam rave tau khiav mus txog lig nrog DJ teeb tsa los ntawm Arca thiab Ronson nws tus kheej, tsuas yog tso peb txhua tus los twv seb leej twg Sabato tsim rau? Puas yuav Gucci lub tuam txhab niam txiv Kering muab sijhawm rau nws? Txog tam sim no cov txiaj ntsig tsis tau zoo heev (kev muag khoom tau nqis los ntawm 20% hauv thawj peb lub hlis twg ntawm 2024), cov ceg txheem ntseeg siab thiab cov khoom lag luam xav tau lwm qhov txuj ci tseem ceeb "Michele" ... Thiab, thaum kawg, leej twg yuav hnav tag nrho. cov khaub ncaws minimalistic thiab hnav khaub ncaws uas zoo nkaus li zoo nkauj tab sis tsis muaj qhov qhia tau meej heev? Vam tias, los ntawm lub sij hawm no groovy collection hits khw muag khoom nyob rau hauv thaum ntxov Kaum ib hlis, peb yuav pom ntau Gucci liab lub khw hnab, thiab muab cov khoom kim heev cov nqi sau npe, tsawg kawg nyob rau hauv tes ntawm cov neeg tuaj ncig tebchaws uasi taug kev ntawm London, Paris, New York, los yog Rome.
Coj: Gucci
Text: Lidia Ageeva