Hauv Tuam Tsev Kev Hlub: Palais galeriera monumental tribute rau rick Owens

zaj nkauj Gothic rau kev zoo nkauj, lub zog thiab tus kheej Mythology thiab tus Owens yeej tsis tau muaj dua rau cov lus tsis paub tab. Tam sim no, avant-Gaestro Maestro ntawm Paris Zam lub limtiam tau txais kev ua kom haum rau nws lub ntsej muag ua ntej, yog lub zeem muag ua ntej Sau npe ntawm kev hlub thiab saib txog 4 Lub Ib Hlis, ua haujlwm tsis yog ib txoj haujlwm dhau los - nws yog cov phiaj xwm ntawm sab ntsuj plig ntawm lub owens ntug. Nrog tshaj 100 silhouettes Spanish peb lub xyoos, cov rooj tog tsis sib xws thiab cov khoom siv hluav taws xob thiab kev ua yeeb yam loj thiab kev ua vajtse architectural.

s3 "> s3"> SISSING Domined Lub Hauv Paus Lub Neej Zoo Li Ntu nrog cov tog neeg uas tsis muaj zog (ib zaug hauv Fab Kis Socialist) - tsis yog tus tsim qauv. Nws yog qhov kev cuam tshuam system system, ib hom kws tsim kho tsiaj, ib hom ntawm Monk niaj hnub rau leej twg txoj kev khiav yog qhov chaw ntawm kev nug kev nug. Tam sim no, nws lub ntiaj teb nchuav tshaj qhov kev ua haujlwm ntawm kev ua haujlwm thiab mus rau hauv cov kab ke dawb huv ntawm Parisian kab lis kev cai.

Cov khaub ncaws uas kuv ua yog kuv tus xeeb ntxwv. They are the calm elegance I want to get to, and the damage I’ve done on the way,” Owens once wrote, when he started out in fashion in Los Angeles in 1992 — a quote that now greets visitors in the show booklet. “They are an expression of tenderness and raging ego.” Peb caug xyoo nyob rau hauv, cov lus tseem ntiv tes tseeb.

Owens tus kheej curated tus kws qhia ntawv nrog Alexandre Samson, Galliera Lub Hnub Qub Rising ntawm kev them nqi ntawm kev ua haujlwm niaj hnub. Ua ke, lawv tau tsim ib yam dab tsi los ze zog rau ib qho chaw ua si sib txawv dua li lub tsev khaws puav pheej, kev qhuab qhia thiab feminity thiab Femininity, tswj thiab kev ntxhov siab. Ntawm Rick, txhua qhov yeeb yam yog ib txwm nom tswv, ib txwm nyob hauv kev ua txhaum cai ntawm cov lej cim tseg. Nws cov lus nug txog cov tswv yim ntawm kev zoo nkauj, saj thiab tonging - thiab yog tias lub ntiaj teb nyob hauv kev nyuaj siab, Owens tsis saib. Nws ntsib nws. Nws tau qw - maj mam muab, nrog kev hlub - uas muaj lwm txoj kev. Nws cov qauv tsim, zoo li cov duab puab, hnav los ntawm kev mob siab rau tus qauv (archetypes ntawm nws ntug), ua ntau dua li dazzle: lawv sib txuas lus. Koj tsis yog ib leeg. Muaj cov lus teb tau pom. Vim tias, raws li Owens hais tias, "Kev qhia cov khaub ncaws zoo tsis txaus lawm."

"Nws tsis mus kawm ntawv zam rau kev kos duab, tab sis los ntawm kev tsim cov khoom lag luam uas muaj kev sib tw ua ke, tab sis los ntawm cov khaub ncaws uas muaj cov khaub ncaws tsis zoo li GromenciaGA," piav qhia Alexandre samson.

Vim li cas Galliera? Nws ntev tau muaj ib qho ntawm Owens 'cov koom haum uas nyiam. "Fortuny, tus neeg ua yeeb yaj kiab nyob rau hauv Venice" thiab "cov kev hnav khaub ncaws Elisabeth, countess grefochhe" yog ntawm cov kev nthuav qhia nws tau rov qab los rau kev tshoov siab. Nws txoj kev hlub ntawm Paris sau tob, tab sis nws yog cov tsev cia no tshwj xeeb uas tau muab rau nws cov cuab yeej - thiab kev ntseeg siab - tsim ib yam dab tsi kom tob.

Sab hauv, cov qhua tau txais kev zam rau kev tshwm sim: Hnub Ci Zoo Nkauj - Dystopian, sculptural, defiantly sensual. Cov ntaub ntawv tau hais txog: Cov kws ua yeeb yaj kiab, cov kaus hniav txhob txwm ua, ntxuav tawv. Tus palette? Monastic: Dub, muted lub ntiaj teb tones, thiab tam sim no-iconic Owens Grey, "plua plav".

ib lub suab nrov uas muaj suab nrov los ntawm Joris-Karl Huysmans los ntawm cov hluas hauv porterville, California.

Daim Duab puab feem ntau yog kev ua haujlwm ntawm lub neej, suav nrog nws lub ntsej muag ua ntej lub neej, suav nrog kev ua kom zoo nkauj Ntxiv ib qho kov ntawm irony, owens tsis ntev los no hinted thaum pib lub digital platform fij rau nws ob txhais taw.

Sab nraud, hauv lub suab sib tw ntawm cov neeg, Owens tau rov qab lub Tsev khaws puav pheej ntawm cov tsev khaws puav pheej neoclassical façade. Cov mlom uas tau tshaj tawm sab nrauv yog qhwv hauv sequin-embroidered npuag - los saum ntuj los ua tsiaj refathioned los ntawm nws lub lens. Lub vaj, ib yam nkaus, tau hloov lawm. Nrog kev pab ntawm Ville de Gardeners, Owens cog nws nrog Californian vines thiab yav sawv ntxov lub hli thiab tus tsiaj qus los ntawm nws tus pej xeem thaum yau. Tag nrho cov toj roob hauv pes nrog tus kheej nco thiab cov lus dab neeg.

Thiab tom qab ntawd muaj 30 asasy Maas Sculptures, tshwj xeeb zoo li Totems thoob plaws thaj av - Part Thaj Av, tag nrho Owens. Lawv yog qhov tso pa tawm tom qab qw; Kev ruaj khov tom qab cua daj cua dub.

Hauv kev zam lub ntiaj teb pom nrog tus txawj deev thiab Ehemerality, kev hlub lub tuam tsev thov kom txo qis. Qhov no tsis yog tsev khaws puav pheej yog - nws yog qhov chaw nkaum. Ua ntawm sequins, steel, qhob thiab tus ntsuj plig.

Rizzoli TootVerture du Daim Ntawv Teev Ntawv Reek Owens Tuam Tsev Kev Hlub © Owenscorp

Xov Xwm: Lidia Hnub nyoog