Hermès: A Well-Tempered Serenity

Nadège Vanhée recalls that she was thinking about her design studio when she began working on the Spring-Summer 2025 prêt-à-porter collection, and the studio itself became a reference for the défilé setup. More than that, her own work in the atelier and her artistic practices inspired the creation of this collection. The collection is filled with details that reference the studio. For instance, the fact that an artist and designer always have pencils and pens at hand explains features such as special pockets for these tools on leather jackets and overalls. Moreover, the overalls themselves, which Nadège generally favours and frequently showcases in her collections, are also part of the collection.

Such nuances, essentially technical but currently aesthetic details (though no one stops you from wearing a leather jumpsuit in your creative studio and storing your pencils and other tools in its pockets), add even more precision and elaboration to this meticulous collection, which amazes with its plethora of details and the complexity of the craft techniques. Leather is transformed into velvety corduroy, turns almost into lace, and also becomes part of a silk elastic mesh, from which long straight skirts with zippers running across the entire thigh are made. Paired with the micro-shorts worn underneath this creates a seductive and provocative look, rarely seen at Hermès. Vanhée’s woman is sure of herself and ready to conquer new frontiers.

The collection is also filled with long trenchcoats featuring transparent inserts and jackets with intricate two-part clasps, all made of calfskin leather, which is traditionally abundant in Hermès women's collections. A standout piece of the collection, a gorgeous and comfortable bomber jacket made of the softest cashmere, whose hems can be wrapped around the waist or simply draped and tied in the front. This bomber jacket, along with a straight long skirt with a clasp and a slit down the front, are the highlights of the collection. They and the long straight leather trousers –– the embodiment of nonchalant Hermès chic.

It would be impossible, of course, not to mention the Hermès colours. This time the entire palette ranged from beige to brown, including hues like milk, champagne, terracotta, and dark chocolate. One should give a special mention to the magnificent mustard shade, which was slightly cooler than usual and exceptionally captivating. Against the pink backdrop, fuchsia unexpectedly flared up, but if you happen to be familiar with the art studio of Nadège Vanhée, you will immediately recognise this colour –– it matches the floor there.

The beauty of Hermès is always tied to the functionality of its objects, as the Maison has always been built on its unique artisanal know-how. However, this functionality is not so simple — it is practically Plato's idea of ​​functionality. The pockets for an artist's tools, attached to clothes made from exquisite Hermès calfskin leather, suggest a level of peacefulness, security, and comfort that’s inherent to the clients of this House. Each pocket radiates serenity and confidence. This ability to generate and express well-being is unique to Hermès. There can be no excesses in this studio, this house, and the entire world of Hermès –– this signifies the stability that is becoming increasingly valuable in today's turbulent world.

Courtesy: Hermes

Text: Elena Stafyeva