Koho a Slimane: he aha ka mea e hana nei ma Celine?

E hiki mai ana ka hoʻoluliluli maikaʻi ʻana. Wahi a nā kumu ʻoihana, ua kokoke ʻo Hedi Slimane e haʻalele iā Celine ma hope o ʻeono mau makahiki. He ʻoiaʻiʻo paha? A inā ʻae, he aha ka mea e hiki mai ana no ka mea hoʻolālā hōkū?

ʻO ka mua, ʻo ʻoihana o ka hana ka mea i haʻihaʻi i ka nūhou ʻaʻole paha ʻo Hedi Slimane e noho ma Celine ma muli o ke "kūkākūkā ʻana o ka ʻaelike me ka mea nona LVMH". Ma hope aku, WWD hoʻoulu i ka lapalapa me kahi hiʻohiʻona e pili ana i nā mea pani o Slimane, e ʻōlelo ana ʻo Polo Ralph Lauren. ʻO Michael Rider ka mea hoʻolālā "ʻo ia ka mea mua e lawe" i nā helm o ka hale hōʻailona, ​​kahi āna i hana ai no nā makahiki he ʻumi ma lalo o Phoebe Philo. Akā, he aha ka mea e hana nei?

Hedi Slimane kahi ala hōʻoia e hiki ʻole ai. I kona hoʻokuʻu ʻana iā Dior Homme me kāna aesthtique pōhaku, ʻo kēlā me kēia kanaka, me kāna hoa hoʻolālā ʻo Karl Lagerfeld, ka mea kaulana i nalowale he 20 kilo no ke komo ʻana i nā silhouettes o Slimane, makemake lākou e ʻaʻahu ʻia i kona mau lole wīwī a me nā lole lohi. Ma hope o ʻehiku mau makahiki ma Dior, ua haʻalele ʻo Slimane e kālele ana i kāna mau kiʻi kiʻi ponoʻī e hoʻi mai i ʻelima mau makahiki ma hope e hoʻolālā i ka mea hoʻomohala a me ke alakaʻi kiʻi ma Saint Laurent (e hoʻokuʻu ana i ka ʻāpana "Yves" mai ka inoa). Ma laila ʻo ia i hana ai no ka manawa mua i nā lole wahine a me nā lole kāne. ʻO kāna mau hōʻiliʻili i hana i kahi hopena like: makemake nā mea a pau e nānā i ka grunge a me ka nani e like me nā kaikamahine a me nā keikikāne a Slimane. A lawe mai i ka hui makua Kering mau piliona kālā. Akā ma hope o ʻehā mau makahiki, ua haʻalele ʻo Hedi Slimane mai ka pāʻani kiʻi, a hoʻi i kona wahi: ke kiʻi. A laila, i ka wā i haʻalele ai ʻo Phoebe Philo iā Céline, ua lanakila ka mea hoʻolālā kiʻi i kona hope. I ka bapetizo hou ʻana iā Céline iā Celine, ua hoʻohuli ʻo Hedi i ka hale i lalo, ua hoʻokuʻu i nā lole kāne a me nā mea ʻala, a ua hana hou i ka rock chic mai Paris. No ka mea, ʻae, hiki iā ia!

Inā i ka wā mua, kānalua paha ʻo Celine aficionados e pili ana i ke koho ʻana o Slimane i manaʻo ʻole ʻia (e hoʻomanaʻo mau ka poʻe fashionistas i nā hoʻopaʻapaʻa wela pau ʻole ma waena o Philophills a me Slimaniacs ma hope o ka lono o ke koho ʻana o Hedi. Internet), nā helu i paʻi ʻia e LVMH e hōʻoiaʻiʻo ana ʻo Hedi Slimane ke koho kūpono no ka brand. I kēia manawa, ʻo Celine ke kolu o ka hōʻailona ʻano nui loa i ka hui me ka € 2.5 biliona o ka loaʻa kālā, e hele mai ana ma hope o nā kanaka nunui ʻo Dior a me Louis Vuitton. A me ia mau helu, ʻaʻole ia he mea kupanaha, ʻo Slimane, ʻaʻole ia he mea hoʻolālā akamai wale nō, akā, he punk ma ka puʻuwai i ʻike i ka lawe ʻana i nā pilikia (ʻike ʻoe, hele nui, a hoʻi i ka home!), makemake ʻoi aku ka mana ma ka brand. No ka mea ʻaʻole wale ia e pili ana i ke kālā (ma hope o nā mea a pau, ʻo LVMH, ka hui o ke kanaka waiwai loa ma ka honua, e like me Forbes), akā ʻo ke koena o ka mana a kākau hou i nā lula o ka pāʻani. Na wai ka mana ma luna o nā mea a pau? Hoʻohui ʻia ke alakaʻi hoʻomohala, mele, media a me nā influencers? Hiki iā Slimane ke lilo i mea koho nui me ka media a me kāna mau koho hoʻolālā kamaʻilio? ʻIke ʻia ka mea hoʻolālā e mālama i kahi haʻahaʻa haʻahaʻa, hōʻole i nā koi ninaninau a hakakā me nā poʻo inoa nui ʻaʻole i hāʻawi iā ia i ka ʻike kūpono - ua pāpā ʻia ʻo Vogue a me Numéro mai kāna mau hōʻikeʻike, me nā paʻi honua āpau. A me ka noʻonoʻo ʻana e hoʻomaka ana ʻo Hedi i ka laina Celine beauté lōʻihi i ka makahiki 2025, i hoʻolaha ʻia i ka wā o ka hōʻike mua i paʻi ʻia (ʻākau, ʻo nā hiʻohiʻona o ke wikiō e kau ana i ka Celine rouge ma ko lākou mau lehelehe, e hele ana ma Parisian iconic. nā wahi e like me la Salle Pleyel, le Musée Bourdelle a i ʻole Musée des Arts Décoratifs), ʻo ia hoʻi ka manawa kūpono e loaʻa ai ka nui mai ka mea hana. A i ʻole e haʻalele no nā manawa kūpono.

Ma hea e hele ai ʻo Hedi Slimane? He koho maikaʻi ʻo Chanel, no ka mea, makemake mau ʻo Slimane e hoʻi i ka couture (ua hana ʻo ia i hoʻokahi ohi couture no Saint Laurent ma mua o ka haʻalele ʻana). ʻO ia hoʻi ka mea hoʻolālā i koho ʻia e ka luna hoʻokele noʻeau ʻo Virginie Viard ma mua o Karl Lagerfeld. Eia hou, inā hele mai ʻo Hedi i Chanel, e hoʻomaka ʻo ia i ka lole kāne lōʻihi i kali ʻia, hiki ke lilo i manawa kūpono no ka ulu ʻana no ka hale Farani kiʻi. Akā ʻo ka ʻike iā Slimane, ʻaʻole ʻo ia e hahai i nā "alakaʻi ʻoihana" a makemake ʻo ia e pāʻani i ka ʻōnaehana no kāna pono ponoʻī a me ka loaʻa kālā o nā mea kuleana, hiki iā ia ke hoʻomaha hou mai ke ʻano. Ma hope o nā mea a pau, ʻaʻole pono ʻo ia i ke ʻano e hoʻopiha ʻia, loaʻa iā ia nā makemake ʻē aʻe: ke mele a me ke kiʻi. ʻO ka hope loa, ʻo ia ka ʻoihana hana e pono ai iā ia.

Kimo: Lidia Ageeva