LIVE
    View all results
    back to all news
    Noi & Hoʻolālā POSTED BY HDFASHION / April 4TH 2024

    Paolo Roversi ma Galliera musée de la mode de la ville de Paris

    ʻAʻole kēia he hōʻikeʻike nui loa - ka mea nui loa, ʻoiaʻiʻo - hōʻikeʻike o ka hana a Paolo Roversi. ʻO kāna mea mua ma Paris, ke kūlanakauhale kahi i hoʻomaka ai kāna ʻoihana ma ke ʻano he kiʻi kiʻi kiʻi i ka makahiki 1973. Ua wehe ʻia ka hōʻike ma ka hale hōʻikeʻike ʻo Parisian ʻo Palais Galliera. Ua hōʻuluʻulu nā mea hoʻonohonoho i nā hana kiʻi 140, me kekahi mau mea i ʻike ʻole ʻia e ka lehulehu ma mua, ua hoʻohui i nā mea e like me nā makasina, nā puke nānā, nā kono me nā kiʻi o Roversi, a me nā Palaroids o ka mea paʻi kiʻi. Ua hōʻuluʻulu ʻia kēia mau mea a pau e Sylvie Lécallier, ke poʻo o ka mea mālama i ka hōʻiliʻili kiʻi o ka hale hōʻikeʻike. Hāʻawi pū ʻia no ka manawa mua e like me ka hoʻolauleʻa ʻana i nā makahiki he 50 o Roversi ma ke kiʻi, hōʻike lākou i ka poʻe kipa i nā mea i komo i loko o kāna kiʻi a me ke ʻano o ia hana.

    < /p>

    ʻO ka hapa nui o nā hana a Roversi ma ka laulā, a ma kēia hōʻikeʻike, he mau kiʻi (ʻoiai aia kekahi mau kiʻi o kāna pahupaʻi punahele a hoʻokahi ʻīlio paha kāna punahele, akā ʻo lākou pū kekahi. nā kiʻi o nā ʻano). A mahalo i ke ʻano kikoʻī o kāna hana, ʻo ka hapa nui o nā kumuhana o nā kiʻi he mau hiʻohiʻona; ua hana ʻo ia me nā hiʻohiʻona kaulana a pau o nā makahiki he 30 i hala iho nei, akā kakaʻikahi ʻo ia e pana i nā kiʻi o nā mea kaulana. Akā ʻoiai ke pana ʻana i nā kumu hoʻohālike kaulana, ʻaʻole ʻo ia e hoʻopuka hou i nā clichés i kamaʻāina i ka lehulehu: ʻaʻole ʻo ia e paʻi i kāna mau kumuhana ma ke ʻano he akua wahine wahine, kaikamahine flirty, androgynous androids, a i ʻole stereotypes kaulana. Ma kekahi o kāna mau nīnauele, ʻōlelo ʻo Roversi e pili ana i kāna kiʻi, ʻoiai ua kapa ʻia ʻo ia he "technique", ʻaʻole "art": "Loaʻa iā mākou nā ʻano mask of expression. Aloha ʻoe, ʻakaʻaka ʻoe, makaʻu ʻoe. Ke hoʻāʻo nei au e lawe i kēia mau masks a unuhi liʻiliʻi a loaʻa iā ʻoe kahi mea maʻemaʻe. He ʻano haʻalele, ʻano haʻalele. Me he mea lā ʻaʻole ia, akā ʻo ka ʻoiaʻiʻo ke loaʻa kēia hakahaka, manaʻo wau e puka mai ka nani o loko. ʻO kēia kaʻu ʻenehana."

    ʻAʻole like ʻo Kate Moss me ke aliʻi wahine o ka heroin chic, ʻaʻole like ʻo Natalia Vodianova me he keiki makaʻu, a ʻaʻole like ʻo Stella Tennant me Orlando ʻo Virginia Woolf. ʻO ka mea e loaʻa ai iā lākou a pau, ʻo ia ka mea a Roversi i ʻōlelo ai: lawe ʻo ia i kēia mau masks a hiki i kahi mea maʻemaʻe i koe. ʻO Paradoxically, ʻaʻole e hoʻonui kēia disengagement i kāna kāmeʻa i ka mamao ma waena o ka mea nānā a me nā hiʻohiʻona, akā e hōʻemi ana ia, e hoʻokokoke ana iā mākou i kā lākou kanaka, me kā lākou idiosyncrasies pilikino. ʻIke nui ʻia kēia i ka moʻo Nudi, i hoʻomaka i ka makahiki 1983 me kahi kiʻi olohelohe o Inès de La Fressange no Vogue Homme, pana ʻia ma ke kiʻekiʻe o kāna ʻoihana, a laila hoʻomau ʻia ʻo ia kāna papahana pilikino, kahi āna i kiʻi ai i kaulana a kaulana ʻole. nā hiʻohiʻona. Ma ke ala mau - nā kiʻi ʻōlohelohe, piha piha, e nānā pono ana i ka pahupaʻikiʻi, ma lalo o ke kukui piha pololei me ka ʻole o nā aka, pana ʻia me ka ʻeleʻele a me ke keʻokeʻo, a laila paʻi hou ʻia ma kahi Polaroid 20x30 - a ua ʻike ʻia kēia hopena hoʻokaʻawale a hoʻohui. i hana i kahi hohonu kūikawā a me ka hōʻike. Hōʻiliʻili ʻia lākou ma ka hōʻikeʻike i loko o kahi lumi kaʻawale - a ʻo ia paha kāna ʻāpana ʻoi loa, no ka mea, ʻaʻohe o kēia mau kino ʻōlohelohe.

    Ma keʻano laulā, makemake ʻo Roversi e hana me ka pahupaʻi kiʻi 8x10 Polaroid, ke kiʻiʻoniʻoni ʻaʻole i hana hou ʻia, a ʻo ka mea paʻi kiʻi e like me kāna ʻōlelo ʻana ua kūʻai aku i nā mea āpau i loaʻa iā ia. Ua pili kēia pahupaʻi kiʻi me kona ʻano ʻokoʻa a ʻike ʻia e hoʻohana ana i ke kala a me ka māmā e hana i ka hopena o kahi pena. A inā hoʻohana ʻo ia i nā kāmera ʻē aʻe, aia ka hopena. He nui ka poʻe i hoʻāʻo a hoʻāʻo e kope i kēia hopena, akā ʻo ka hopena maʻamau ka mea e hoʻomanaʻo ai i ka hana a AI. Hiki ke ʻike ʻia ka ʻike maoli maoli o Roversi ma ka hōʻikeʻike - ma kāna mau pana no Vogue France, Vogue Italia, Egoïste, a me Luncheon, i kāna mau hoʻolaha no Yohji Yamamoto, Comme des Garcons, a me Romeo Gigli. ʻO ka hana a ka mea nānā kiʻi o ka hōʻikeʻike ʻo Ania Martchenko, ka mea nāna i hana i kekahi o kāna pūlima trompe-lʻœil ma ke ʻano o ka puka makani a i ʻole ka puka hāmama iki e hoʻopuka ana i ka mālamalama, e hoʻoikaika ana i ka hoʻohana ʻana o ka haku i ka mālamalama ma ke ʻano a me ka literally.

    Akā, ʻo ka launa pū ʻana o Paolo Roversi me ke ʻano, me nā hōʻiliʻili kiʻi, he mea kūʻokoʻa loa - pana ʻo ia ma ke ʻano e lilo ai ia i kumuhana lua o ke kiʻi, akā ʻaʻole pau nā kiʻi i ke ʻano. E like me kāna i ʻōlelo ai iā ia iho: "ʻO nā lole kahi ʻāpana nui o ke kiʻi kiʻi. He hapa nui o ke kumuhana. ʻOiai, noʻu, ua like nā kiʻi kiʻi a pau me ke kiʻi - ʻike wau a mālama i kēlā me kēia kiʻi ma ke ʻano he kiʻi, o ka wahine a i ʻole ke kāne a i ʻole ke keikikāne - akā aia mau nā lole a hiki iā lākou ke hana i ka wehewehe ʻana o ke kiʻi. ʻoi aku ka paʻakikī.”

    Natalia Vodianova, Paris 2003. Tirage pigmentaire sur papier baryté Natalia Vodianova, Paris 2003. ʻO ka pigmentaire ma luna o ka pepa baryté
    Audrey Marnay, Comme des Garçons A/H 2016 - 2017. Tirage au charbon Audrey Marnay, Comme des Garçons A/H 2016 - 2017. Tirage au charbon
    Anna Cleveland , Comme des Garçons P/E 1997, Paris, 1996. Polaroïd original Anna Cleveland , Comme des Garçons P/E 1997, Paris, 1996. Polaroïd kumu
    Tami Williams, Christian Dior A/H 1949-1950, Paris, 2016. Tirage au charbon Tami Williams, Christian Dior A/H 1949-1950, Paris, 2016. Tirage au charbon
    Sasha Robertson, Yohji Yamamoto A/H 1985-1986, Paris, 1985. Tirage pigmentaire sur papier baryté Sasha Robertson, Yohji Yamamoto A/H 1985-1986, Paris, 1985. ʻO ka pua puaʻa ma luna o ka papier baryté
    Lucie de la Falaise, Paris, 1990. Tirage au charbon Lucie de la Falaise, Paris, 1990. Tirage au charbon
    Luca Biggs, Alexander McQueen A/H 2021-2022, Paris, 2021. Tirage au charbon Luca Biggs, Alexander McQueen A/H 2021-2022, Paris, 2021. Tirage au charbon
    Lida et Alexandra Egorova, Alberta Ferretti A/H 1998-1999, Paris, 1998. Polaroïd original Lida et Alexandra Egorova, Alberta Ferretti A/H 1998-1999, Paris, 1998. Polaroïd kumu
    Lampe, Paris, 2002. Tirage pigmentaire sur papier baryté Lampe, Paris, 2002. ʻO ka pua puaʻa ma luna o ka pepa baryté
    Kirsten Owen, Romeo Gigli P/E 1988, Londres, 1987. Polaroïd original Kirsten Owen, Romeo Gigli P/E 1988, London, 1987. Polaroïd kumu
    Kirsten Owen, Romeo Gigli A/H 1988-1989, Londres, 1988. Tirage pigmentaire sur papier baryté Kirsten Owen, Romeo Gigli A/H 1988-1989, London, 1988. Tirage pigmentaire sur papier baryté
    Jérôme Clark, Uomo Vogue, Paris 2005. Tirage chromogène sur papier Fujiflex Jérôme Clark, Uomo Vogue, Paris 2005. Tirage chromogène ma luna o ka pepa Fujiflex
    Guinevere van Seenus, Yohji Yamamoto P/E 2005, Paris, 2004. Tirage pigmentaire sur papier baryté Guinevere van Seenus, Yohji Yamamoto P/E 2005, Paris, 2004. Tirage pigmentaire sur papier baryté
    Audrey Tchekova, Atsuro Tayama P/E 1999, Paris, 1998. Tirage chromogène sur papier Fujiflex Audrey Tchekova, Atsuro Tayama P/E 1999, Paris, 1998. Tirage chromogène sur papier Fujiflex
    Audrey Marnay, Comme des Garçons P/E 1997, Paris, 1996. Tirage au charbon. Audrey Marnay, Comme des Garçons P/E 1997, Paris, 1996. Tirage au charbon.
    Sihana, Comme des Garçons A/H 2023-2024, Paris, 2023. Tirage au charbon Sihana, Comme des Garçons A/H 2023-2024, Paris, 2023. Tirage au charbon
    Autoportrait Paolo Roversi 2020 Paolo kiʻi kiʻi ʻoniʻoni ʻo Paolo Roversi 2020

    Loaʻa: © Paolo Roversi

    Kimo: Elena Stafyeva