Louis Vuitton kafin faduwar shekara ta 2024: Don neman siffa da silhouette

Nicolas Ghesquière ya nuna tarin kafin faduwar 2024 a Shanghai a Long Museum West Bund kuma, abin mamaki, shi ne na farko. defilé a China a cikin shekaru 10 da ya yi a Louis Vuitton. Watakila ranar tunawa da gidan ne ya sa shi yin haka, da kuma sake duba aikinsa. Domin wannan shine ainihin abin da aka yi a cikin sabon tarinsa - kuma an yi shi ta hanyar da ta fi dacewa.

Da farko dai, ya kamata a lura cewa Nicolas Ghesquière ya kusanci cikarsa shekaru goma a Louis Vuitton a cikin kyakkyawan tsari, watakila mafi kyawun shekaru biyar da suka gabata. Bugu da kari, a wannan lokacin Ghesquier yana aiki tare da wani matashin dan wasan kasar Sin daga Shanghai, Sun Yitian, wanda dabbobi masu kama da zane-zane - damisa, penguin, bunny mai ruwan hoda tare da LV fleur de lys a idanunsa - bincika manufar "Made in China" yawan samarwa. Wadannan hotuna an riga an gane su sosai, kuma, ba shakka, suturar motar A-line, riguna masu motsi, da ƙananan siket, da jakunkuna da takalma da aka yi wa ado da su, za su zama babban mahimmanci na tarin - kuma babban abin da ke jawo cece-kuce tsakanin masu tattara kayan kwalliya da masu sha'awar kwalliya gaba daya. Kuma wannan sabon salo ne ga Yayoi Kusama, wanda a fili yake yana da mafi girman damar kasuwanci, amma girman girmansa, ta kowace ma'ana ta kalmar, ya riga ya kai ga iyakar tarihi. Kuma, ba shakka, zai zama abin ban mamaki, ban da kyawawan dabbobin zane mai ban dariya, don ganin wani abu mafi alama da ban mamaki daga aikin Sun Yitian, kamar shugaban Medusa ko shugaban Ken da aka gabatar a nunin ta a birnin Paris na karshe. fada.

Amma babban abu, kamar yadda kullum tare da Ghesquiere, ya faru a waje da sarari na ado, amma a cikin sarari na siffar - wato, inda zane mai ban dariya. Dabbobin sun ƙare kuma rigunan ƙaƙƙarfan ginannun riguna, siket ɗin asymmetrical, da siket waɗanda da alama an tsage wutsiya tare da madaidaiciyar saman dogon hannu marasa hannu a rufe a ƙarƙashin makogwaro (akwai siket daban-daban a nan gaba ɗaya), wando mai kama da wani abu a tsakanin masu furanni. da wando na sarouel, da dogon wando na bermuda aka fara. Kuma a cikin wannan duka, wasu guda har ma da duka kamannuna suna haskakawa nan da can, suna haifar da jin daɗin jin daɗi: jaket ɗin jirgin sama na fata tare da abin wuyan Jawo, wanda Ghesquière ya yi nasara a farkon aughts Balenciaga, haɗuwa da amfanin gona mai faɗi. saman da siket ɗin asymmetrical daga tarin Balenciaga SS2013, tarinsa na ƙarshe don Balenciaga. A wannan karon, an sami ƙarin irin wannan fitintinu daga maɗaukakin shekarun baya na Balenciaga fiye da kowane lokaci - kuma hakan ya sa zukatan magoya bayansa da suka daɗe suna rawar jiki a hankali.

Akasin haka, koyaushe yana kasancewa na gaba, sa ido, ba wai baya don neman sabbin nau'ikan ba. Kuma lokacin da kuka ga jerin manyan riguna na fata na murabba'i masu nauyi tare da madaidaitan ɗakuna da aljihu ko jerin riguna na ƙarshe na tulip-skirted, kun gane cewa Ghesquiere ya fara wannan duka duban babban hits ɗinsa a cikin shekaru da tarin ba don dalilai na jin daɗi ba, amma a matsayin neman hanyoyin zuwa gaba. Kuma yana kan hanyarsa ta riga - bincikensa na siffa da silhouette da sake fasalin nasa tarihin kawai ya tabbatar da hakan.

Courty: Louis Vuitton

Rubutu: Elena Stafyeva