Fashion month What to expect from catwalks in NY, London, Milan and Paris

Ready, steady, go! Fashion month is about to start, and here is everything you need to know about the Womenswear Spring-Summer 2025 edition of the marathons in New York, London, Milan, and Paris.

New York

September 6 - September 11

This season, New York will be pre-starting the fashion week with Proenza Schouler catwalk, Birkenstock’s 250th-anniversary party, and a preview of Claire White Keller’s new collection for Uniqlo: C on September 4. Next on the agenda, Ralph Lauren who will be staging a show in the Hamptons on September 5, and Fashion for Our Future March on September 6, organised by a non-profit I am a voter, who teamed up for the occasion with American Vogue and the CFDA, to encourage voting: the President elections in the US are coming in November, and fashion could not stay in the shadow when the nation’s fate is at stake.

Expect to see new names on the runway. Off-White comes to New York after many seasons of showing in Paris. Peter Mulier’s Alaïa will also hold a show in New York, for the second time in its history of the Maison (the first one, in 1982 was attended by Andy Warhol and Paloma Picasso). And so is Dutch designer Ronald Van Der Kemp, who previously presented his collections during couture fashion weeks in the City of Lights: he will be staging his label’s 10th Anniversary show in the East Village.

Other highlights include showcases from the big names of American fashion - Tommy Hilfiger, Carolina Herrera, Coach, Tory Burch and Michael Kors, and catwalks of the busiest fashion labels such as Khaite, Ekchaus Latta, Luar and Area (who will be celebrating its 10th anniversary this season). Shows from the staple of Scandi minimalism Toteme, Hungarian fashion label Nanushka and the London-based brand of affordable fashion COS are also among the events not to be missed on the NYFW calendar.

Elsewhere, this season, eBay is getting into the fashion game: the online retailer will organise two Endless Runway shows in New York (September 5) and London (September 12), spotlighting the best from pre-loved fashion that you can buy immediately on the platform. In New York, the focus will be on local names such as Gabriela Hearst, Khaite, Off-White, Tom Ford or Ralph Lauren, whereas in London the British designers Vivienne Westwood, Alexander McQueen, Christopher Kane, Craig Green, Grace Wales Bonner and Simone Rocha will take centre stage. Both of the runways will be live-streamed and shoppable online here.

London

September 12 - September 17

This year, London Fashion Week is celebrating its 40th anniversary. During the five-day marathon, expect shows from the most celebrated British designers (think JW Anderson, Simone Rocha, ERDEM, Roksanda, Marques Almeida, Richard Quinn and Nensi Dojaka) as well as a roster of emerging talents, supported by the BFC’s NEWGEN program: Di Petsa, Lueder, Chet Lo, Derrick, Harri, Tolu Coker, Johanna Parv, Masha Popova, Paolo Carzana, Sinéad O’Dwyer, Charlie Constantinou and Karoline Vitto. LFW has always been a showcase for new creative talents, so this new wave of designers is the one to keep on your radar. The NEWGEN showplace will move from the usual Old Selfridges Hotel location back to 180 Strand.

There will also be yet another runway of Daniel Lee for Burberry, where we will find out if the new CEO Joshua Schulman’s strategy is working for both of them and if they managed to find a balance between Lee’s ground-breaking fashion ideas and ways to commercialise them.

Among other highlights of LFW not to be missed are the Fashion East show (Lulu Kennedy’s fashion incubator gave to London all of its talents from JW Anderson and Martine Rose to Kim Jones and Craig Green), the debut catwalk for Edeline Lee, the 2022 LVMH Prize Winner Stevn-Stockey Daley’s first womenswear show, eBay preloved Endless Runway, the launch of Rahul Mishra’s accessory collection for TOD’s, and H&M London showcaseь featuring a life performance by CharliXCX, who created a capsule collection for the brand.

Milan

September 17 - September 23

Milan’s fashion week this season is one day longer: local authority La Camera della Moda has added an extra day for digital activations. The fashion marathon will start with Fendi showing on the first day, September 17, followed by Marni, Alberta Ferretti and Iceberg. The MFW will continue with Boss, who is back on the calendar, Jil Sander, Roberto Cavalli and Etro on Wednesday, September 18. The busy week will continue with other blockbuster fashion shows from Prada, Dolce & Gabbana, Moschino, Versace, Tod’s, Max Mara, Gucci, Diesel, Bottega Veneta and Ferragamo.  

However some names are absent from the schedule: Giorgio Amrani will show his collection off-schedule in October in New York (but no worries, Emporio Armani is on MFW calendar), Bluemarine is skipping the season as its new creative director David Koma is preparing his debut collection for the next season, whereas Tom Ford after Peter Hawkings‘s departure earlier this month is still in search of a new designer, so they preferred to sit out.

Among new names not to miss are London fashion treasure and Central Saint Martins graduate Susan Fang, who will be showing her collection with the support of Dolce & Gabbana, the comeback show of Attico and Andreadamo.

Paris

September 23 - October 1

The pinnacle of the fashion month, the long-awaited Parisian fashion week is always the longest in the fashion marathon and lasts 10 full days. The most anticipated show is Alessandro Michele’s debut catwalk for Valentino, where he will show his vision for the brand in IRL (you can find the breakdown of his first lookbook here).

What else? Ganni will be showing for the first time outside of Copenhagen, and Coperni will be taking the fashion crowd to Disneyland. New York native, Peter Do, for the first time, will be staging a show in Paris, and so will Belgian designer Christian Wijnats. Another staple of American fashion, Gabriela Hearst is back on the Parisian calendar. Waiting for the new creative director to be announced after the sudden departure of Virginie Viard, Chanel will be showing their ready-to-wear collection imagined by the studio at the Grand Palais.

Paris is also the hub of creative energy and emerging talent. Among the new wave of fashion designers not to be missed are Parisian darling Vaillant, Italian LVMH Prize finalist Niccolò Pasqualetti, the mastermind behind all Loewe and JW Anderson’s best-selling shoes Abra and the romantic and feminine Austrian designer Florentina Leitner.

​​Other highlights include Seán McGirr’s sophomore collection for McQueen (rumours have it that it might be his last if he doesn’t change the strategy), the first collection of Dries Van Noten without Dries, fully crafted by his studio, and blockbuster shows from Saint Laurent, Chloé, Balenciaga, Loewe, Rick Owens, Isabel Marant, Dior, Miu Miu and Louis Vuitton.

Text: Lidia Ageeva