Saint Laurent FW24: ịkwalite ihe nketa ahụ

Obi abụọ adịghị ya na isi ihe Anthony Vaccarello rụpụtara bụ ikike ya ịghọta na imeghari ihe nketa Yves Saint Laurent, yana njikọ doro anya nke isi silhouettes nke YSL na SL ọgbara ọhụrụ. Ọ naghị eme ozugbo wee were ya ọtụtụ afọ, ma ugbu a, na oge ọhụrụ ọ bụla, nchịkwa ya na-ele anya na-eme ka obi sie ya ike ma n'ihe gbasara mpịakọta na silhouettes, na n'ihe gbasara ihe na textures.

Nke mbụ, ka anyị kwuo banyere mpịakọta ndị ahụ. Mgbe afọ ole na ole gara aga, Vaccarello bu ụzọ gosi jaket kwụ ọtọ nke nwere ubu siri ike na nke siri ike, nke sitere na nke Yves Saint Laurent mere na mbido 1980, ọ bụ ntinye aka ya na mbụ na ihe nketa Yves - yana ọmarịcha ihe na nke ahụ. Kemgbe ahụ, nnukwu ubu aghọwo ihe a na-ahụkarị na anyị na-ahụ ha n'ụzọ nkịtị na nchịkọta ọ bụla. N'oge ụfọdụ, Vaccarello malitere ibelata mpịakọta, nke bụ ihe ziri ezi, na SL FW24 e nwere nanị ole na ole jaket dị otú ahụ nwere ubu buru ibu. Nke ahụ kwuru, enwere ọtụtụ ajị anụ - dịka n'ozuzu oge a - ọ dịkwa oke ọkụ. Ihe fọrọ nke nta ka ọ bụrụ ụdị ọ bụla nwere uwe mkpuchi na-egbuke egbuke - n'aka ha ma ọ bụ n'ubu ha, mana ọtụtụ mgbe n'aka ha - ha si na nchịkọta haute couture PE1971 a ma ama na uwe mkpuchi ya dị mkpụmkpụ na-acha akwụkwọ ndụ akwụkwọ ndụ, nke na-eti ndị nkatọ. laa azụ mgbe ahụ.

Ugbu a, textures. Ọ bụrụ na mkpokọta a nwere isiokwu, ọ bụ nghọta, nke dabara nke ọma na ihe ngosi mepere ọhụrụ Yves Saint Laurent: Transparences, Le pouvoir des matieres. Isi ihe ebe a bụ transperent warara sketị, nke Vaccarello n'ozuzu mere ya bụ isi atụmatụ, na e nwekwara transperent bustiers na, n'ezie, kpochapụwo YSL uwe elu nwanyị transperent na ụta. Mana nghọta a niile, ikekwe n'ihi ụbara beige na aja kachasị amasị Vaccarello ugbu a, bụ nke ghọrọ agba agba nke mkpokọta ahụ, dị ka BDSM latex ntakịrị, yana ntakịrị ihe sci-fi Kubrick. Nke a, n'ezie, bụ ụdị mmekọahụ nke Yves Saint Laurent na-enwetụbeghị, na ọchịchọ ya niile maka ntakịrị ntụpọ, ma ọ bụ nnọọ bourgeois seductiveness nke pụtara ìhè karịsịa na foto Helmut Newton a ma ama nke ụmụ nwanyị YSL nke 1970s. Mana nke a bụ mgbanwe nke Vaccarello na-eme ka SL dị mkpa taa.

Na otu niche a na-adọrọ adọrọ nke 1970s ị nwere ike ịgbakwunye jaketị agwa a haziri ahazi nke akpụkpọ anụ na-egbuke egbuke, nke ejiri ụkwụ efu na-eyi. Na isi mkpuchi ahụ kegidere n'isi ndị ụdị ahụ, na nnukwu ntị ntị n'okpuru ha - dị ka Loulou de La Falaise na 1970s, nke ya na Yves sere foto na ụfọdụ ụlọ oriri na ọṅụṅụ abalị, mgbe ha abụọ, kpakpando abụọ nke bohemian Paris, nọ na ha. isi.

N'ezie, onyonyo a nke ịma mma French mara mma na French chic nke Les Trente glorieuses bụ ihe Vaccarello na-ebugharị ugbu a. Na isi minstrel nke kpochapụwo Parisian mma - bụrụ enyi ya Catherine Deneuve, Loulou de La Falaise, Betty Catroux, ị na-akpọ ya - Yves Saint Laurent n'onwe ya, bụ onye mere ememe dị otú ahụ divas, femmes fatale, na ndị ọzọ embodiments nke kpochapụwo Parisian femininity. . Taa, Anthony Vaccarello emeela ihe oyiyi a nke ọma nke onwe ya, na-eweghachi ya na ndụ na ụdị a kwalitere na nke oge a, na-emegharị Yves Saint Laurent na ihe ngosi ya kachasị mma na nke kachasị mma site na omenala omenala ndị a ma ama. Ọfọn, nke a bụ, dị ka ndị French ga-ekwu, une très belle collection, très féminine, nke o nwere ike na-ezi ekele - o jisiri YSL si mgbanwe si n'oge gara aga na ugbu a nke ọma.

Ederede: Elena Stafyeva