Celine Menswear Caij nplooj zeeg-Lub caij ntuj no 2024/25: Hedi Slimane's Fantastic Symphony

Nyuam qhuav pib lub lim tiam no, Celine tau tso tseg nws cov khoom sau rau lub caij ntuj no tom ntej, nrog Hedi Slimane ib zaug ntxiv rau cov yeeb yaj kiab hauv YouTube es tsis yog qhov tseeb catwalks ntawm Paris Fashion Week thiab soundtracked nrog classical music es tsis txhob ntawm designer's li ib txwm neo-pob zeb.

Lub suab seev nug? Hector Berlioz 'Symphonie Fantastique, uas, raws li Celine's PR department, Slimane thawj zaug pom thaum nws nyuam qhuav muaj 11 xyoos.

Tus kws sau ntawv, uas tau sau daim ntawv hauv xyoo 1830 thaum nws muaj 26 xyoo - vam tias nws yuav pab nws ntxias ib tus neeg ua yeeb yam Askiv - tau piav qhia tias nws yog 'qhov tseem ceeb tshaj plaws ntawm ib hom tshiab.'

Tom qab nws thawj qhov kev ua yeeb yam rau pej xeem, cov neeg thuam tau xav tsis thoob los ntawm lub suab paj nruag niaj hnub, ib tus neeg tshuaj xyuas tau hais tias "qhov yuav luag tsis pom qhov txawv uas ib tus tuaj yeem xav txog". Thiab nyob rau hauv 1969, tus thawj coj Leonard Bernstein tau piav qhia txog Symphonie Fantastique li "thawj lub suab paj nruag symphony hauv keeb kwm, thawj qhov kev piav qhia suab paj nruag tau ua los ntawm kev mus ncig, sau ib puas peb caug xyoo ua ntej Beatles."

Tsuas muaj me ntsis nods rau psychedelia hauv Slimane cov yeeb yaj kiab tshiab, txawm hais tias ob peb tus qauv ua tau zoo ib yam li thaum xyoo 1960s California pob zeb hnub qub Don Van Vliet, aka Captain Beefheart, uas feem ntau tau yees duab hauv nws lub hnub qub hnav lub kaus mom stovepipe.

Thiab qee qhov xwm txheej tau tshwm sim hauv cov lus dab neeg Troubadour Club hauv West Hollywood, uas thoob plaws hauv nws keeb kwm tau ua yeeb yam los ntawm pej xeem thiab cov pob zeb mos mos zoo li Jackson Browne, Eagles, thiab Byrds, nrog rau punk thiab cov cim tshiab nthwv dej thiab headbangers suav nrog Mötley. Crüe thiab Guns'n'Roses, uas thawj zaug ua qhov ntawd.

Cov yeeb yaj kiab qhib nrog xya lub nyoob hoom qav taub dub, txhua tus muaj lub logo Celine dawb, ya qis dua Mojave suab puam. Lub Celine-branded jukebox dai los ntawm ib qho ntawm cov nyoob hoom qav taub thiab tawm hauv nruab nrab ntawm qhov tsis pom, ntawm tarmac ntawm txoj kev ploj.

Peb tau txais kev pom tsis meej ntawm cov ntawv teev npe ntawm jukebox. Muaj Jimmie Hodges thiab Shania Twain, Johnny Maestro thiab Fats Domino, ntxiv rau cov lus hais saum toj no Symphonie Fantastique, video's soundtrack.

Cov suab puam txoj kev loj ua ob npaug raws li lub catwalk rau Slimane tus qauv, hnav feem ntau yog dub, txawm hais tias qee lub tsho kub lossis nyiaj tsho loj hauv qhov kawg, raws li lawv feem ntau ua hauv Celine collections. Cov duab Catwalk sib xyaw nrog cov duab ntawm cov tub ntxhais hluas cowboy caij nws tus nees thiab kev ua haujlwm qeeb ntawm tsib Cadlacs dub nrog Celine daim ntawv tso cai.

Symphonie Fantastique pom kev rov qab los ntawm hom kev kho kom zoo nkauj uas Slimane tau tsim nws txoj haujlwm, nrog lub silhouette uas nods rau xyoo 1960 thiab xyoo pua 19th - nruj, cropped peb-khawm suits, frock coats thiab tes-embroidered waistcoats, nyob rau hauv precious. fabrics xws li txhob lo lo ntxhuav, cashmere, satin thiab vicuna wool, styled nrog pussy bows, khau boots, thiab dav-brimmed preacher lub kaus mom uas yuav tsis saib tawm ntawm qhov chaw ntawm Nick Cave los yog Neil Young nyob rau hauv ib tug yeeb yam Jim Jarmusch, los yog Johnny Depp nyob rau hauv ib Dior. naj hoom ad.

Tab sis tag nrho cov nyob rau hauv tag nrho cov, esthetic tseem quintessential Slimane, sib npaug ntawm Parisian bourgeois thiab Velvet Underground tawv.

Cov yeeb yaj kiab xaus nrog lub jukebox ntes hluav taws, thiab suab paj nruag mus ntsiag to: THE END.

Peb puas yuav pom "Symphonie Fantastique" ua Slimane's goodbye rau Celine?

Cov lus xaiv ntawm tus tsim qauv tawm ntawm lub hom phiaj tsis tu ncua, nrog Chanel feem ntau raug muab npe ua qhov chaw ua tau tom ntej. Coincidentally, los yog tsis, nyob rau tib hnub Celine video raug tso tawm, Chanel tau tshaj tawm 16% cov nyiaj tau los, qhuas tus thawj coj muaj tswv yim Virginie Viard - "kev pov npav ntawm kev ntseeg siab" hauv tus tsim, raws li WWD.

Yog li, nws puas yuav nyob, lossis nws yuav mus?

Yees duab: Celine

Zaj nkauj: Jesse Brouns