Lub lim tiam dhau los, Celine tau saib ua ntej nws Spring-Summer 2025 menswear sau, nrog Hedi Slimane ib zaug ntxiv rau YouTube video es tsis yog qhov tseeb catwalk yeeb yam, thiab ib zaug ntxiv soundtracked nrog classical qhab nia es tsis txhob indie pob zeb.
Ob peb lub hlis dhau los, hauv nws daim video rau lub caij tam sim no, Slimane tau ua yeeb yaj kiab hauv Mojave suab puam thiab ntawm Troubadour Club hauv West Hollywood. Lub sijhawm no, nws xaiv rau ib qho tsev fuabtais, thiab nws qhov chaw dav dav, hauv tebchaws Askiv.
Nyob zoo, cov tub ntxhais hluas cowboy hnav khaub ncaws dub - thiab nyob zoo, sab sauv cov hluas nyob rau hauv dawb cricket woollens thiab rowing blazers.
Yog vim li cas "Zoo nkauj hluas nraug"?
nrog "Tus Hluas Nkauj", Slimane tau rov qab mus rau nws cov tub ntxhais kawm hnub ntawm Ecole du Louvre, qhov chaw uas nws ib zaug tau sau ib tsab ntawv hais txog keeb kwm ntawm Anglomania, Fabkis txoj kev mob siab rau lus Askiv style, uas hnub rov qab mus rau hnub qub ntawm Versailles. Tus tsim qauv sib xyaw ua ke hauv qee qhov ntawm nws tus kheej tus phab ej, zoo li eccentric English dandy Stephen Tennant (1906-1987), uas muaj feem xyuam rau tus qauv Stella Tennant.
Nyob rau hauv cov ntawv xov xwm, Slimane suav nrog ib nqe lus los ntawm tus sau Evelyn Waugh's Vile Lub Cev: "Niaj hnub no koj tsis hnov kev cia siab ntau, koj puas paub?... Lawv tsis nco qab txog kev cia siab, tsuas muaj ib qho kev phem loj hauv ntiaj teb niaj hnub no. Kev poob siab."
Vile Lub Cev, Waugh tus thib ob tshiab - nws tau luam tawm nyob rau hauv 1930 - yog ib tug parody ntawm Bright Young Yam, ib pab pawg neeg ntawm Bohemian, feem ntau tsis meej pem cov tub ntxhais hluas aristocrats thiab socialites nyob rau hauv 1920s London, uas Stephen Tennant yog ib tug tswv cuab. Waugh yuav mus sau ntawv Brideshead Revisited, uas, ntau xyoo tom qab, tau hloov mus ua ib qho kev qhuas thiab muaj suab npe hauv TV.
Xyoo 1981 series tau tshoov siab rau New Romantics txav hauv British zam thiab pop suab paj nruag (xws li Visage thiab Duran Duran thaum ntxov) thaum lub sijhawm thiab coj mus rau cov yeeb yaj kiab suav nrog Lwm lub tebchaws thiab Maurice, thiab thaum kawg, Saltburn.
"Tus Hluas Nkauj" muaj cov ntsiab lus ntawm tag nrho cov no. Nws yog tej zaum ib qho ntawm feem ntau homoerotic tsos Slimane tau ua rau Celine.
Dab tsi yog HAUJ LWM HAUJ LWM?
Qhov no yog ib qho khoom siv high-end, nrog canvas-made tailoring crafted los ntawm 1920s Lub Caij Ntuj Sov cashmere thiab ntaub plaub, rewoven rau Celine. Cov khaub ncaws hnav nrog lub duav tsho hauv damask, los yog tes-embroidered nyob rau hauv 1920s motifs ntawm lus Askiv teb paj. Trimmed tsho thiab rowing blazers yog ua nrog cashmere flannel. Qee lub tsho rowing feature embroidered trompe l'oeil couture pieces, xuas tes ua nyob rau hauv lub hom ateliers. Qee cov khoom tuaj nrog heraldic-style thaj ua rau thaj lub hom phiaj piav raws li "polished nyiaj cannetiles coiling", kev tsim tawm ntawm cov txheej txheem paj ntaub siv hauv lub thaum ntxov 20-xyoo pua tub rog uniform kev lig kev cai. Cov khau — richelieus, hauj sam thiab tapered derbies - xa mus rau British hnav khaub ncaws style los ntawm tib lub sij hawm.
Tab sis tsis yog tag nrho cov lus hais yog neeg Askiv: raws li cov ntawv xov xwm, Slimane tau saib cov duab ntawm Asmeskas kws sau ntawv F. Scott Fitzgerald ntawm kev mus ntsib Hotel Eden Roc hauv Antibes xyoo 1922 thaum nws tsim lub caij ntuj sov cashmere flannels dawb.
Cov vis dis aus tau ua rau lub Rau Hli kawg, ntawm Holham Hall, hauv Norfolk. Cov suab paj nruag raug txiav los ntawm Jean-Philippe Rameau's Les Indes Galantes, sau rau xyoo 1736 rau kev ntaus pob tesniv ntawm Theatre du Palais-Royal. Cov khoom no tau ploj mus rau ntau tshaj 150 xyoo, thiab rov tshawb pom hauv 1957, thaum nws tau ua nyob rau hauv Versailles nyob rau hauv lub xub ntiag ntawm poj huab tais ntawm England, nyob rau hauv ib tug official mus ntsib rau Fabkis.
Koj tuaj yeem hnov nws, ib yam nkaus
"Tus Hluas Nkauj" kuj qhia txog cov tshuaj tsw qab tshiab rau Celine's haute parfumerie collection. Ib Rebours, nrog rau cov ntawv sau ntawm ntoo qhib moss, cedar, nutmeg, coumarin thiab cashmeran, qhia ib lub npe nrog 1884 tshiab los ntawm Joris-Karl Huysmans - suav hais tias yog tus masterpiece ntawm decadent ntaub ntawv.
YUAV UA LI CAS?
Yog li, qhov no yog Hedi Slimane qhov kawg sau rau Celine? Xaiv ntawm cov neeg tsim qauv tawm hauv lub hom phiaj tau pheej mus yuav luag ib xyoos tam sim no, nrog Chanel feem ntau raug muab npe raws li qhov ua tau mus tom ntej. Tsis muaj kev tshaj tawm tshiab txog tam sim no. Slimane, uas nyob hauv Saint Laurent, Dior, thiab rov qab los ntawm Saint Laurent ua ntej Celine, ib txwm siv nws lub sijhawm, suav nrog ob peb lub sijhawm los ntawm kev tsim qauv, tsom mus rau nws cov duab. Muab nws tsom rau cov yeeb yaj kiab zam rau Celine, puas yuav muaj yeeb yaj kiab ntxiv?
Yees duab: Celine
Text: Editorial team