When we think of Hermès, the first thing that comes to mind is a great Parisian artisanal house that has mastered all luxury crafts at a world-class level. However, beyond all this, there is one more quality in which Hermès is unrivaled: its ability to handle luxury in its most concentrated form with ease. Everything that Véronique Nichanian does with Hermès menswear collections exemplifies this skill perfectly.
The aesthetics of Hermès menswear, which was basically created by Nichanian, who has been developing them for over 30 years, are based on a dynamic balance between two seemingly contradictory essences: effortlessness and nonchalance, and absolute, uncompromising luxury. At Hermès, these two elements not only avoid conflict but exist in joyful harmony.This is an art that many strive to master, yet no one has achieved it at such a level.
As always, next winter’s collection features a lot of leather and shearling, such as the voluminous coat with sheepskin on the outside on the back and collar and sheepskin on the inside on the side body details, with contrasting pockets, which looked exceptionally luxurious. A simple short jacket made of the softest calf leather in the color of freshly whipped cream looked equally splendid. The counterpoint to the density and smoothness of leather was provided by velvet with its softness and texture, as two velvet looks completed the show. Not the most common material for Hermès, it appeared fresh and a bit decadent here, thanks to silk scarves around the model’s neck, twisted into coils and threaded through rings. In general, it should be noted that Hermès has brilliantly mastered the art of stylisation, which enables them to transform their accessories in the most unexpected ways.
Cashmere sweaters were paired with zipped balaclavas, – and this combination looked particulary striking in the red-brick shade. The trench coats featured a warm lining reminiscent of a classic Hermès throw blanket with a geometric print. The raincoats were crafted from cotton with a special vinyl waterproof treatment, imparting a subtle 1970s charm. All the well-known fittings of the large men's Birkin bag were concealed inside, leaving only its fleeting-dotted outlines visible on the outside. This clever and subtle play with details and aprons carries a hint of irony, but its primary aim is to lighten the image, making it contemporary and adding a carefully crafted spontaneity.
When discussing of Maison Hermes, one cannot overlook another of its skills: the art of colour combination. This time, the colour palette reads like a poem – café, bronze, vert chrome, ardoise, anthracite, céladon, sanguine. There wasn’t a single sharp color clash, only a meticulously crafted harmony of intricate shades.
The magical allure of Hermès is rooted in subtle nuances, counterpoints and connotations that enable these items, crafted from the most impeccable and uncompromising materials, to appear carefree and effortless. In this art of luxurious nonchalance, Hermès has achieved an unparalleled level of sophistication and ease.
Courtesy: Hermès
Text: Elena Stafyeva