HD Fashion Presents: The Best Shows of the Season at Paris Fashion Week

HD Fashion has curated an exclusive list of the season’s standout shows, capturing the pinnacle of style, innovation, and artistry that defined Paris Fashion Week. From the powerful debuts of Haider Ackermann for Tom Ford and Sarah Burton for Givenchy, to a heartfelt farewell collection by JW Anderson for Loewe and an exciting fashion extravaganza by Duran Lantink, here’s a glimpse of the fifteen most talked-about collections.

Tom Ford
Haider Ackermann’s debut at Tom Ford marked the dawn of a new era for the brand, where sensuality, seduction, and desire seamlessly converge. Held in an intimate setting, with only close friends and selected press in attendance, the show painted a vivid picture of two future lovers meeting in a mysterious room, where they can converse and discover each other for the first time. On the catwalk, Ackermann showcased a series of impeccably tailored tuxedos and power suits, sleek black leather ensembles, and ethereal evening gowns, all imbued with a touch of glamour. In short, Ackermann effortlessly embraced the house’s codes, heralding an exciting new chapter for Tom Ford.

Loewe
In a poignant farewell, JW Anderson unveiled his final collection for Loewe in a presentation hailed by many fashion critics as one of the season’s most powerful. The collection seamlessly merged artisanal craftsmanship with sculptural silhouettes and intricate details. Blurring the lines between a fashion performance and an art exhibition, the presentation took place at Hôtel de Maisons, the former residence of Karl Lagerfeld, where Anderson’s poetic designs were displayed alongside his favourite artworks, including Anthea Hamilton’s Giant Pumpkin No. 2 and a trio of sculptural vases by South African ceramicist Zizipho Poswa, all of which have become integral to his Loewe universe. A bittersweet yet brilliant send-off.

Hermès
Nadège Vanhée has done it once again, proving that even if Hermès chooses not to play by the usual fashion rules, aiming instead to solidify its reputation as the ultimate luxury brand that transcends time, it still manages to set the tone for the upcoming season. Meticulously crafted black leather silhouettes dominated the catwalk, offering a striking affirmation that the era of powerful, dominatrix-inspired women in charge is back, ready to take on the world.

Givenchy
Givenchy has finally found its couture voice, all thanks to Sarah Burton, who unveiled her debut collection for the brand at Maison’s headquarters on Avenue George V. She skillfully explored the concept of tailoring, with reversed jackets standing out as one of the season’s highlights, while also reimagining flou with tutu dresses, evening gowns, and a delicate yet striking use of the brightest yellow hues. Burton had only a few months to craft this collection, leaving us eager for her menswear debut in June and her very first couture collection set to be revealed in July.

Issey Miyake
This season, Satoshi Kondo for Issey Miyake drew inspiration from the world of Austrian artist Erwin Wurm—whose works set the stage for the show—and unveiled a collection of sculptural silhouettes. Dresses, shirts, blazers, oversized jumpers, and tops echoed the form of paper bags, blurring the boundaries between fashion and art. Critics hailed it as the season’s standout collection, applauding its originality and unconventional approach, with every detail thoughtfully crafted to perfection.

Yohji Yamamoto
The King of Fashion introduced one of next season’s key colours: purple. Yohji-san brought his show to a poetic close with a moment of serene camaraderie, as models elegantly flipped their black coats inside out, revealing rich purple linings that immediately became the focal point of the look.

Alaïa
After showcasing at New York’s Guggenheim Museum last September, Alaïa made a powerful return to its Parisian roots with a Summer-Autumn 2025 presentation at its newly opened ateliers on Rue Servan in the 11th arrondissement. Under the direction of Pieter Mulier, Alaïa continues to assert itself as one of the most dominant Parisian maisons on the catwalk. A true homage to form, the collection unveiled silhouettes that resembled living sculptures — a concept deeply cherished by the house’s founder, Azzedine Alaïa, solidifying its place at the forefront of French fashion.

Chloé
Chemena Kamali continues to shape her vision of a bold, fearless Bohemian Chloé tribe. This season, she explored how the past influences our bond with cherished pieces that endure over time, passing from one generation to the next. Her collection was a rich tapestry of eras: flowing ’70s-inspired dresses, shoulder-padded blouses evoking the ’80s, and low-rise jeans and skirts with wide belts from the 2000s. And, of course, a reimagined version of the iconic Paddington bag — once a defining symbol of the noughties — made a triumphant return.

Saint Laurent
Season after season, Anthony Vaccarello continues to position Saint Laurent at the vanguard of the Paris fashion calendar, constantly reshaping its allure. This time, he staged the show on what he dubbed “a grand onyx oval”—a sleek, black runway flanked by bold mineral rock panels. The collection itself was a masterclass in singularity, distilling the silhouette to its purest form. From the sharp, broad shoulders and elevated necklines of the opening looks to sweeping, full-skirted gowns paired with oversized leather jackets nonchalantly slung off men’s shoulders, there was a striking tension between grandeur and intimacy, evoking the refined sensuality of a nightdress.

Miu Miu
One of the defining trends of the season, seen across nearly every Paris runway, is a fierce, warrior-like femininity. Miuccia Prada herself has long explored this complex, empowering vision of womanhood, and this season, it came to life in its boldest, most elegant form at Miu Miu. Under the direction of stylist Lotta Volkova, Madame Prada was convinced to layer sculpted cone bras over form-fitting long sleeves, adding a subversive edge to the collection that perfectly encapsulated the spirit of the moment. While Prada’s show in Milan touched upon femininity in a refined, intellectual way, it was at Miu Miu that this idea truly reached its peak, as always. The collection felt like a raw, unapologetic celebration of strength, power, and sensuality, capturing a new wave of femininity that is both sophisticated and untamed, seamlessly balancing softness with strength. At Miu Miu, femininity wasn’t just a concept—it was a statement.

Dior
While it remains uncertain whether Maria Grazia Chiuri will be leaving Dior in the coming months after her Cruise collection in Rome, her latest offering proved she is more than capable of thinking outside the box and winning back the hearts of her loyal clientele. The designer tapped into the brand’s rich history, drawing inspiration from Gianfranco Ferré’s era at the helm, as well as the Victorian period, transforming her runway show into a theatrical spectacle directed by the legendary Bob Wilson. The collection also saw the triumphant return of the iconic “J’adore Dior” T-shirt, a beloved pop design by John Galliano, which we can’t wait to see once again dominating the streets.

Coperni
Coperni welcomed 900 guests to the Adidas stadium in northern Paris for a show brimming with the playful, irreverent energy that has made the brand an international sensation. Infused with the spirit of the ’90s and 2000s, hacker aesthetics (a nod to The Girl with the Dragon Tattoo), and iconic video game heroines like Lara Croft, the collection felt both nostalgic and futuristic. As the runway unfolded, around 200 gamers gathered for a LAN (Local Area Network) party tournament, seamlessly blending fashion, technology, and digital subcultures in a way that only Coperni can. The result was a spectacle that felt as fun as it was groundbreaking, further solidifying the brand’s global appeal and its ability to captivate both the fashion world and beyond.

Valentino
What’s the most unexpected show location? A vivid red public toilet, a bold metaphor from Alessandro Michele for the most intimate of moments. A touch of fashion irony never hurt anyone, and we adored how his sophomore collection for Valentino proved that he’s on the right path to reshaping the brand’s vision, propelling it into the future. Michele, with his exquisite sense of the era we are living in, continues to play with fashion’s boundaries, effortlessly combining wit and sophistication while remaining attuned to the cultural pulse of today.

Balenciaga
This season, Demna delved into the essence of everyday dressing, crafting a collection for life’s familiar moments — models striding purposefully down the runway, no grand finale in sight. Just days after this triumphant show, Kering announced that the Georgian designer would be departing Balenciaga to take the helm at Gucci in early July, marking this as his final ready-to-wear collection for the house. Who saw that coming?

Duran Lantink
The most viral and undoubtedly one of the season’s most unforgettable shows — bold, bizarre, and unapologetically kitsch. Lantink’s signature warped silhouettes made a triumphant return, pushing the boundaries of fashion to exhilarating new extremes. Shoulders stretched beyond the ears, hips jutted out at surreal angles, and skirts seemed to defy gravity, held aloft by ingenious metal band constructions. His obsession with body modification reached new heights through exaggerated padding, ethereal garments, and, of course, the now-iconic jeans with their cheeky surprise at the back. With rumours swirling that he’s poised to be named the new creative director of Jean-Paul Gaultier, Lantink continues to redefine what fashion can be with a playful yet fearless vision that refuses to be ignored. It’s state-of-the-art fashion with a smile, and he is undoubtedly one of the talents to watch closely.

Courtesy of the featured brands

Text: Lidia Ageeva