HOʻolaha ʻia e HDFASHION / Malaki 13TH 2024

E komo i loko o ka hale: Loewe Autumn-Winter 2024 na Jonathan W. Anderson

No ka hoʻoilo-hoʻoilo 2024, mahalo ʻo Jonathan W. Anderson i nā hana a Albert York, e hoʻohuli ana i ka hale hōʻikeʻike i hale Pelekane maʻamau a hoʻolauleʻa i kēia manawa o ke ola.

He hale mana ʻili ʻo Loewe, no laila, ua hoʻokomo ʻia ka hōʻiliʻili i nā blousons nappa draped show-stopper, a fluffy fur hoodie a me nā ʻeke aviator ili. Ua hōʻike ʻia ka hōʻiliʻili i kahi mana hou o ka ʻeke Squeeze kūʻai maikaʻi loa. ʻO ka pāʻani a me ka wiwo ʻole, ua loaʻa i ka mea hoʻomana hoʻohiwahiwa kahi hana hoʻonaninani, i hoʻonani ʻia me nā manu lani a i ʻole he ʻīlio, i kālai ʻia i nā micro-beads.

Makemake ʻo Jonathan W. Anderson e pāʻani me ka manaʻo o ke kāne, no laila ua nui nā ʻaʻahu puhi lōʻihi a i ʻole nā ​​ʻaʻahu huelo, nā pants lousy a me nā pajamas. Ma hope, ua ʻike ʻo ia ʻo Prince Harry kekahi o kāna mau kumu hoʻoikaika, a pehea ʻo ia e ʻaʻahu mau ai no kāna mau papa kula papa. ʻAʻohe mea e ʻaʻahu i nā hiʻohiʻona like, ʻoiai, ʻokoʻa nā lālā o ka ʻohana aliʻi, no laila he mea paʻakikī ka hana ʻana i kahi ʻano hana hou. ʻAe, ua hoʻokō ʻia ke kolohe, ʻike ʻole ʻia nā ʻāpana iā Loewe.

Ua ʻike nā kānaka a pau he makemake ko Jonathan W. Anderson i ka hana noʻeau. No laila, he mea maʻamau iā ia ke hoʻololi i kāna keʻena hōʻikeʻike ma Esplanade Saint Louis, ma ka pā o ka Château de Vincennes, i hale kiʻi kiʻi kiʻi o Albert York he ʻumikumamāwalu kiʻi ʻaila liʻiliʻi akā ikaika. Ua ʻike ʻia ka mea pena kiʻi ʻAmelika no kāna mau hiʻohiʻona haʻahaʻa o nā hiʻohiʻona idyllic a me nā pua e ola mau ana (ʻo Jackie Kennedy Onnasis kekahi o kāna mau mea pā nui loa), a ʻo ka mea hoʻohenehene, ʻo ia kāna hōʻike mua a ʻoi loa ma Continental Europe. Ua haʻi aku ʻo Anderson i ka mea pena kaulana i kāna mau hōʻike hōʻikeʻike, nāna i ʻōlelo kaulana i kekahi manawa: "Noho mākou i loko o ka paradaiso. Oia ka mahinaai o Edena. ʻOiaʻiʻo. ʻo ia. ʻO ia wale nō ka paradaiso a mākou e ʻike ai. No laila, pono mākou e hoʻolauleʻa i ke ola i ka wā e loaʻa ai iā mākou ka pōmaikaʻi o ke ola ʻana, a ʻo ka lole e kōkua iā mākou e hauʻoli i ke alo, ka mea i kēia manawa.

Me he mea lā he kono e kipa i kahi hale pilikino, he nui nā ʻōlelo kuhikuhi home maʻamau i ka hōʻike. ʻO nā ʻāpana pua a me nā mea kanu mai ke keʻena kiʻi kahiko Pelekane i lilo i mau hiʻohiʻona ma nā ʻaʻahu, nā pālule a i ʻole nā ​​pālule. Ua ʻike ʻia ka ʻīlio aloha i ke ʻano mosaic ma kahi ʻaʻahu pōkole A-line kiʻi kiʻi (ʻo nā peʻa liʻiliʻi liʻiliʻi i manaʻo ʻia e hana hou i ka caviar, ka mea ʻai punahele o ka poʻe waiwai). Aia kekahi mau hiʻohiʻona manaʻo ikaika: nā lole me nā hiʻohiʻona e like me ka ʻili ostrich i aneane like me ka ʻili maoli maoli. ʻO nā trompe lʻoeil ʻē aʻe he tartans: hoʻoheheʻe maoli nā māka i loko o ka mille-feuilles sliced ​​chiffon, loaʻa hou ka 3D materiality, a ua hoʻonani ʻia nā kola ʻaʻahu me ke ʻano huluhulu, akā he kalai lāʻau maoli nō. ʻOiai ʻo nā buckles nui, hana maʻamau, lawelawe ʻia ma ke ʻano he mea hoʻonani nani i nā ʻaʻahu ahiahi me nā ʻokiʻoki kino, a me nā poʻo i ka suede. ʻOi aku ma mua o kahi mea kōkua maʻalahi, akā he hana noʻonoʻo.

 

Palapala: LIDIA AGEEVA