HOʻolaha ʻia e HDFASHION / Malaki 11TH 2024

Saint Laurent FW24: hoʻonui i ka hoʻoilina

ʻAʻohe mea kānalua ʻo ka hoʻokō nui o Anthony Vaccarello ʻo ia kona hiki ke ʻike a hoʻololi i ka hoʻoilina o Yves Saint Laurent, a me ka hoʻohui ʻana o nā silhouettes nui o YSL i ka SL hou. ʻAʻole ia i hiki koke a lawe iā ia i kekahi mau makahiki, akā i kēia manawa, me kēlā me kēia kau hou, ʻoi aku ka nui o kāna lawe ʻana i ka ʻike ma ke ʻano o ka nui a me nā silhouettes, a ma nā ʻano o nā mea a me nā ʻano.

ʻO ka mua, e kamaʻilio e pili ana i nā volumes. I kekahi mau makahiki i hala aku nei, ua hōʻike mua ʻo Vaccarello i nā ʻaʻahu pololei me nā poʻohiwi ākea a ʻoʻoleʻa, i loaʻa mai nā mea i hana ʻia e Yves Saint Laurent i nā makahiki 1980, ʻo ia kāna hana pololei mua i ka hoʻoilina o Yves - a he mea kupanaha loa ia. Mai ia manawa, ua lilo nā poʻohiwi nui i mea maʻamau a ʻike maoli mākou iā lākou i kēlā me kēia hōʻiliʻili hoʻokahi. I kekahi manawa, ua hoʻomaka ʻo Vaccarello e hoʻohaʻahaʻa i nā volumes, ʻo ia ka neʻe kūpono, a ma SL FW24 he liʻiliʻi wale nō nā lole me nā poʻohiwi nui. ʻO kēlā ʻōlelo, ua nui ka hulu - e like me ka mea maʻamau i kēia kau - a he voluminous. Aneane i loaʻa i kēlā me kēia ʻano hoʻohālike nā ʻaʻahu hulu huluhulu nui - ma ko lākou mau lima a ma ko lākou poʻohiwi, akā ʻoi aku ka pinepine ma ko lākou mau lima - a hele mai lākou mai ka haute couture kaulana PE1971 hōʻiliʻili me kona ʻaʻahu ʻōmaʻomaʻo pōkole pōkole, kahi i hōʻeha nui ʻia e ka poʻe hoʻohewa. ia manawa.

I kēia manawa, nā ʻano. Inā he kumuhana kēia hōʻiliʻili, ʻo ia ka ʻike, i hui maikaʻi ʻia me ka hōʻikeʻike hou i wehe ʻia ʻo Yves Saint Laurent: Transparences, Le pouvoir des matieres. ʻO ka mea nui ma ʻaneʻi, ʻo ia nā ʻāpana liʻiliʻi liʻiliʻi, i hana ʻo Vaccarello i kāna hiʻohiʻona nui, a aia kekahi mau bustiers transparent a, ʻoiaʻiʻo hoʻi, nā blouses transparent YSL maʻamau me nā kakaka. Akā ʻo kēia ʻike a pau, ma muli paha o ka nui o ka beige a me ke one punahele a Vaccarello i kēia manawa, ka mea i lilo i mau kala nui o ka hōʻiliʻili, ua ʻano liʻiliʻi e like me ka latex BDSM, a me kahi liʻiliʻi e like me Kubrick's sci-fi. ʻO kēia, ʻoiaʻiʻo, ʻo ia ke ʻano o ka moekolohe ʻaʻole i loaʻa iā Yves Saint Laurent, me kona makemake a pau i kahi kīnā iki, akā he bourgeois seductiveness i hōʻike nui ʻia ma nā kiʻi kaulana a Helmut Newton o nā wahine YSL o nā makahiki 1970. Akā ʻo kēia ka hoʻoponopono e pili ana ʻo Vaccarello iā SL i kēia lā.

Hiki iā ʻoe ke hoʻohui i nā ʻaʻahu pī i kūkulu ʻia me ka ʻili ʻālohilohi, i hoʻohana wale ʻia me nā wāwae wāwae ʻole. A ʻo nā ʻaʻahu poʻo i hoʻopaʻa ʻia a puni nā poʻo o nā kumu hoʻohālike, a me nā ʻili pepeiao nui ma lalo o lākou - e like me Loulou de La Falaise i nā makahiki 1970, i paʻi ʻia ma nā kiʻi me Yves i kekahi hale pō, i ka manawa o lāua ʻelua, ʻelua mau hōkū o ka bohemian Paris, i ko lāua pookela.

ʻOiaʻiʻo, ʻo kēia kiʻi o ka nani Farani maʻamau a me ka chic French o Les Trente glorieuses ka mea a Vaccarello e hoʻolaha nei i kēia manawa. A ʻo ka minstrel nui o ka nani Parisian maʻamau - ʻo kāna mau hoaaloha ʻo Catherine Deneuve, ʻo Loulou de La Falaise, ʻo Betty Catroux, kapa ʻoe iā ia - ʻo Yves Saint Laurent ponoʻī, nāna i hoʻolauleʻa i nā divas, femmes fatale, a me nā ʻano ʻē aʻe o ka wahine Parisian kahiko. . I kēia lā, ua hana maikaʻi ʻo Anthony Vaccarello i kēia kiʻi nona iho, me ka hoʻihoʻi ʻana iā ia i ke ola i loko o kēia mana hou a hou, hoʻolaʻa hou iā Yves Saint Laurent i kāna mau kiʻi ʻoniʻoni a maikaʻi loa i hāpai ʻia e nā kiʻi moʻomeheu kaulana. ʻAe, ʻo kēia, e like me ka ʻōlelo a ka Farani, une très belle collection, très féminine, kahi e hiki ai iā ia ke hoʻomaikaʻi ʻia - ua mālama ʻo ia i ka hoʻololi ʻana o YSL mai ka wā kahiko a hiki i kēia manawa.

Kikokikona: Elena Stafyeva