HOʻolaha ʻia e HDFASHION / Malaki 6TH 2024

Nā mea holo i ka ʻino: ʻO Seán McGirr ka hoʻomaka mua no Alexander McQueen Autumn-Winter 2024

Ua hōʻike ʻo McGirr i kāna hōʻiliʻili mua ma ke kahua kaʻaahi kahiko ma waho o Paris, i ka lā ua nui loa o Paris fashion week: no laila, kau ʻia nā pākeʻe melemele/'ōmaʻomaʻo acid ma kēlā me kēia noho no ka hoʻomaha ʻana o nā malihini. I loko o kāna mau moʻolelo hōʻike, ua ʻōlelo ka mea hoʻolālā Irish ua makemake ʻo ia i kāna hōʻiliʻili mua e lilo i "A rough opulence. Hōʻike i ka holoholona i loko". Ma hope, ua wehewehe ʻo McGirr, ʻoiai ʻo ia kāna huakaʻi mua no Alexander McQueen, a manaʻo ʻo ia he kanaka ʻē, makemake ʻo ia e kālele i nā hōʻiliʻili mua loa a Lee e like me "Banshee" (AW94) "The Birds" (SS95) mai ka 90s, ʻO ka mea hoʻolālā hope i manaʻo he kanaka ʻē. “ʻO kaʻu mea makemake i ia mea he maʻalahi loa ia, akā wili iki. E pili ana i ka hana ʻana me kāu mea i loaʻa. Lawe ʻo Lee i nā mea maʻamau e like me nā ʻaʻahu a wili iā ia a wāwahi iā ia a ʻike i ka mea e hiki mai ana. No laila he manaʻo DIY i ka hōʻiliʻili, a me ka ikaika o ka ʻōpio ʻo London. ʻAe, aia ʻo McGirr e hoʻoluliluli i nā mea, a pēlā ʻo ia i hana ai! 

Ua wehe ʻo Seán McGirr i kāna hōʻiliʻili me kahi lole draped distorted i ka lole laminated ʻeleʻele e kuhikuhi ana i ka lole cling film kaulana mai "The Birds", ua hoʻopaʻa ke kumu hoʻohālike i kona mau lima ma ka umauma. I kēia pō, e pili ana i nā kiʻi o Lākana āu i ʻike ʻole ai, akā makemake ʻoe e hui. A laila, aia nā ʻauwaha ʻili a me nā pāpale kiʻekiʻe, a me kahi helu maikaʻi o nā ʻōlelo a McQueen - noʻonoʻo i nā ʻaʻahu me nā kiʻi holoholona, ​​​​nā waihoʻoluʻu waika, nā mea ʻala a me ke kumu poʻo kaulana. Ua lawe ʻia nā silhouettes i ke kiʻekiʻe: ʻo nā wili chunky nui me nā kola ma luna o ke poʻo (hello, Martin Margiela!) ʻO ia kekahi o nā mea koʻikoʻi o ka hōʻiliʻili. Aia kekahi mau ʻano hana couture i manaʻo ʻole ʻia: kahi lole liʻiliʻi me ka chandelier i wāwahi ʻia a me ka mea hoʻonaninani uila uila ʻulaʻula a ʻalani, me he mea lā i hana ʻia mai nā mea i loaʻa ma hope o kahi ulia kaʻa. A ʻo nā hiʻohiʻona hope ʻekolu, nā ʻaʻahu kaʻa, i hana ʻia mai ke kila, waihoʻoluʻu e like me ka Ferrari melemele, ka ʻulaʻula cobalt Aston Martin a me ka Tesla ʻeleʻele. Ua wehewehe ʻo McGirr ma hope o kona makuakāne he mīkini, akā ʻaʻole ia he hoʻomana i ka ʻohana, ʻoi aku ka huakaʻi ma ke ala hoʻomanaʻo: i kona wā kamaliʻi e kamaʻilio mau ana lākou i nā kaʻa a me kā lākou hoʻolālā ʻana ma ka home, a ʻo ia ka mea i loaʻa iā ia. pono ʻo ia e hana i nā ʻano a me nā ʻano no ke ola.

 

I ka wā ma hope o kēia ahiahi ma ka hoʻolauleʻa ʻana o Guido Palau i kāna laina mālama lauoho hou no Zara, ua hele au i ke ala me ka ʻohana o Katy England (ʻo ka stylist kekahi o nā hoaaloha pili loa a Lee), ʻano pīhoihoi lākou a pau. Ke kamaʻilio nei ka poʻe a puni e pili ana i ka hoʻomaka mua ʻana o McGirr e ʻōlelo ana he mea hoʻohilahila. Nui nā manaʻo, akā aia i hea ka ʻike? Ua ʻokoʻa paha? He aha inā inā nui loa kēia mau kāmaʻa e kūpono? ʻAe, maopopo loa ka pane a McGirr i ka hoʻohewa ʻana, ʻōlelo ʻo ia iā Lee McQueen nāna i ʻōlelo ma hope o kēlā me kēia hāʻule ʻole: "Makemake au e inaina ka poʻe i kaʻu hana ma mua o ka hāʻawi ʻole ʻana iā ia". A ʻo ia ka mea e kūpono ai kēia mea hoʻolālā kūikawā no ka hale o Lee McQueen. 

ʻO ka hōʻiliʻili mua o Seán McGirr no Alexander McQueen, i hoʻopiha ʻia me nā kuhikuhi e pili ana i ka hoʻoilina o ka mea hoʻolālā nui a me ka wā i hala o kāna mea pani, ua hoʻāla i kahi ʻino o ka hoihoi, maikaʻi a maikaʻi ʻole. Akā,ʻo ka hoʻomaka wale nō.ʻAʻole maʻalahi ka hoʻopihaʻana i nā kāmaʻa o kahi mea hoʻolālā nui. ʻOi loa inā ʻo ka mea i nīnau ʻia ʻo ia ʻo Lee McQueen nui, mahalo ʻia e nā mea hoʻoponopono, nā mea kūʻai aku, nā haumāna a me nā hanauna o nā mea hoihoi. A e hele mai ana ma hope iho o ka luna hoʻokele hoʻokumu mua ʻo Sarah Burton, ka lima ʻākau aloha o Lee nāna i hānai i kāna hoʻoilina mai kona make ʻana i ka makahiki 2010, ʻaʻole ia e maʻalahi ka tak. ʻO 35 makahiki, ʻo Seán McGirr, hānau ʻia ʻo Dublin, i hui pū me ka hale hōʻailona i kekahi mau mahina i hala aku nei - ma mua o kona hana ʻana no Jonathan W. Anderson ma kona inoa inoa ma ke ʻano he poʻo o ka hoʻolālā, akā ma kāna hui pū ʻana me ka mākeke lehulehu Iapana. nunui Uniqlo. Loaʻa iā ia kahi hana ma Dries Van Noten ma kāna hoʻomau, pū kekahi. Kahaha.

Palapala: LIDIA AGEEVA