HOʻolaha ʻia e HDFASHION / Malaki 2TH 2024

ʻO Gucci FW24: ka lanakila o nā cliches

Ua lilo ka hōʻiliʻili FW24 i ke kolu o ka holoʻokoʻa a ʻo ka lua o ka mākaukau i hoʻolālā ʻia e Sabato De Sarno, no laila ua lawa mākou e hoʻoholo ai inā ua hele mai kahi Gucci hou i kāna iho. ʻO ka pane, ʻaʻole, ʻaʻole - a ua maopopo loa kēia. He mea maopopo loa inā he mea kūpono ke kūkākūkā e pili ana i ka hōʻiliʻili hou, ʻo ia ke kumu o kēia ʻano hana ʻole.

E nānā kākou - ʻaʻohe hewa o ka hana a De Sarno. ʻO ka hōʻiliʻili ʻana i hana ʻia ma ke ʻano ʻoihana a loaʻa iā ia kekahi spunk - kūpono ia no kekahi brand kalepa maʻemaʻe ʻaʻole i hoʻohālike i ke ʻano o ke ʻano. Inā i hui pū ʻo De Sarno iā Gucci ma hope o Frida Giannini, ua maikaʻi kēia mau mea a pau, akā ua pani ʻo ia iā Alessandro Michele, nāna i alakaʻi i ke ʻano kipi, hana i ke ʻano o kēia manawa i nā ʻano i lilo i mea maʻamau i kēia manawa, a ua hoʻohuli ʻo Gucci i poʻokela o kēia kipi. No laila ua hele mai ʻo De Sarno i Gucci ma kahi kiʻekiʻe o kāna mōʻaukala - ʻae, ʻaʻole i ka piko loa, akā aia nō i kahi kūlana ikaika, a ʻo ia ka paʻakikī i hāʻule ʻole.

He aha kā mākou i ʻike ai ma ke ala holo i kēia manawa? ʻO nā micro-overalls a me nā micro-shorts, voluminous pea jackets, nā ʻaʻahu, a me nā cardigans, i ʻaʻahu ʻia me ka ʻole o lalo - ʻo kēia mau mea āpau me nā kāmaʻa kiʻekiʻe a i ʻole me nā paepae nui (ʻo ia ka de Sarno, i hoʻoholo ai e hana i kāna ʻāpana pūlima). ʻO Micro kekahi mea me nā ʻaʻahu lōʻihi kaumaha nui a me nā ʻauwaha, nā lole paheʻe, me ka lace a ʻole paha, me ka ʻāʻī a i ʻole, akā me nā kāmaʻa kiʻekiʻe like. ʻO nā lole ʻaʻahu a me nā ʻaʻahu i ʻoki ʻia me kahi mea e like me ka tinsel lāʻau Kalikimaka ʻālohilohi a i ʻole nā ​​sequin ʻālohilohi - a ʻo kēia tinsel shimmering e kau ana, me he mea lā, ʻo ia wale nō ka mea hou o ke alakaʻi kiʻi hou. ʻO nā mea ʻē aʻe i loko o kēia ʻohi i manaʻo ʻia me ka mea ma mua - a ʻo ia ka mea nui me nā mea ʻē aʻe i hana ʻia e nā poʻe ʻē aʻe.

A laila, ua ʻike pinepine mākou i kēia tinsel Kalikimaka ʻālohilohi i nā hōʻiliʻili Dries van Noten - ma nā ʻaʻahu nui like ʻole. Ua ʻike mākou i kēia mau kāmaʻa kiʻekiʻe, ʻo ia hoʻi me nā panties a me nā puʻupuʻu liʻiliʻi like ʻole a me nā cardigans i loko o ka hōʻiliʻili Prada FW09 kaao, a ʻo kēia mau lole paheʻe me nā lace like ʻole i hele pololei mai nā hōʻiliʻili a Phoebe Filo no Celine SS2016. A ua maikaʻi inā hoʻokomo ʻo Sabato de Sarno i kēia mau kuhikuhi i loko o kāna manaʻo kumu ponoʻī, hoʻoponopono iā lākou ma o kāna ʻano hiʻohiʻona ponoʻī, a hoʻokomo iā lākou i loko o kāna mau aesthetics ponoʻī. Akā ʻoiai inā he mau akamai kona, kahi i hoʻokumu ʻia ai kāna ʻoihana, ʻaʻohe ona ʻike a ʻaʻohe manaʻo o Gucci ma ke ʻano he hōʻailona ʻokiʻoki.

No laila, he aha kā mākou ma ʻaneʻi? Aia kahi hoʻonohonoho o nā cliches fashion, i loko e hiki ai iā ʻoe ke ʻike i nā ʻano o kēia manawa, ʻākoakoa a hoʻonohonoho pono ʻia. Aia kekahi hiʻohiʻona nani e like me ka hoʻāʻo e hoʻopau iā Michele a hoʻōla hou iā Ford. Aia kahi papa waihoʻoluʻu i hoʻokumu ʻia a nani hoʻi me ka nui o nā ʻulaʻula saturated, ʻōmaʻomaʻo, terracotta, a me nā hue ʻala. ʻO nā mea a pau, aia kahi hōʻiliʻili kūʻai maikaʻi akā hoʻohui pū ʻia, kahi i kau ai ʻo Gucci i nā manaʻolana kālepa nui - hiki ke hoʻopaʻapaʻa, kūpono loa. Eia naʻe, ʻaʻohe mea i loko o kēia hōʻiliʻili e wehewehe i ke ʻano, hāʻawi iā mākou i ʻike iā mākou iho i ke ao o kēia mau lā, hopu i ko mākou noʻonoʻo, a hoʻopololei i ko mākou naʻau. A laila, ʻaʻole paha i hoʻonui ʻia ka makemake o Gucci i kēlā mamao - a i ʻole i kēia manawa. Malia paha e lilo ka hoʻonani ʻana o ke ʻano ma luna o ka waiwai i mea ʻano ʻano hou - akā inā e hana ʻia, manaʻolana mākou ʻaʻole e lōʻihi.

 

Kikokikona: Elena Stafyeva