ʻO Celine Menswear Autumn-Winter 2024/25: Hedi Slimane's Fantastic Symphony

Ma mua o kēia pule, ua hoʻokuʻu ʻo Celine i kāna hōʻiliʻili no ke kau hoʻoilo e hiki mai ana, me Hedi Slimane e koho hou ana i kahi wikiō ma YouTube ma mua o nā catwalks maoli o Paris Fashion Week a kani ʻia me nā mele kahiko ma mua o ka neo-rock maʻamau o ka mea hoʻolālā.

ʻO ke mele i nīnau ʻia? ʻO Hector Berlioz 'Symphonie Fantastique, e like me ka ʻoihana PR o Celine, ua ʻike mua ʻo Slimane i kona piha ʻana i ka makahiki 11.

ʻO ka mea haku mele, nāna i kākau i ka ʻāpana i ka makahiki 1830 i kona wā he 26 - me ka manaʻo e kōkua iā ia e hoʻowalewale i kahi mea hoʻokani Pelekane - ua wehewehe ʻo ia he 'mea hoʻokani mele nui o kahi ʻano hou.'

Ma hope o kāna mau hana mua i ka lehulehu, ua kāhāhā ka poʻe hoʻohewa i ke ʻano hou o ka mele, hoʻokahi mea loiloi evoking "ka mea hiki ʻole ke noʻonoʻo ʻia e hiki ke noʻonoʻo". A i ka makahiki 1969, ua wehewehe ke alakaʻi ʻo Leonard Bernstein i ka Symphonie Fantastique "ʻo ka symphony psychedelic mua i ka mōʻaukala, ka wehewehe mele mua i hana ʻia no kahi huakaʻi, i kākau ʻia i hoʻokahi haneli kanakolu mau makahiki ma mua o ka Beatles."

He mau minoʻo liʻiliʻi wale nō i ka psychedelia i loko o ka wikiō hou a Slimane, ʻoiai ua like kekahi o nā hiʻohiʻona i ka hopena o ka makahiki 1960s California hoku hōkū ʻo Don Van Vliet, aka ʻo Kāpena Beefheart, ka mea i paʻi pinepine ʻia i kona wā kahiko me ka pāpale stovepipe.

A ua kiʻi ʻia kekahi mau hiʻohiʻona ma ka Troubadour Club kaulana ma West Hollywood, kahi i mālama ʻia i loko o kona mōʻaukala i nā hōʻikeʻike e nā poʻe a me nā moʻolelo mele mele e like me Jackson Browne, ka Eagles, a me nā Byrds, a me nā kiʻi punk a me nā nalu hou a me nā poʻo poʻo me Mötley. ʻO Crüe lāua ʻo Guns'n'Roses, nāna i hoʻokani mua ma laila.

Wehe ka wikiō me ʻehiku mau helikopa ʻeleʻele, ʻo kēlā me kēia me kahi hōʻailona Celine keʻokeʻo, lele haʻahaʻa ma luna o ka wao nahele ʻo Mojave. E kau ana kekahi pahu pahu pahu Celine mai kekahi o na helikopa a waihoia ma ka waena o kahi, ma ka tarmac o ke alaloa nalowale.

Loaʻa iā mākou nā ʻike maopopo ʻole o ka setlist ma ka jukebox. Aia ʻo Jimmie Hodges lāua ʻo Shania Twain, Johnny Maestro a me Fats Domino, a me ka Symphonie Fantastique i ʻōlelo ʻia aʻe nei, ke kani o ka wikiō.

ʻO ke ala nui o ka wao nahele e paʻa ʻia ma ke ʻano he catwalk no nā kumu hoʻohālike o Slimane, ʻeleʻele ka hapa nui o ka ʻaʻahu, ʻoiai ke kiʻi nei kekahi mau lole gula a i ʻole kala kala i ka hopena, e like me kā lākou hana pinepine ʻana i nā hōʻiliʻili Celine. Hoʻohui ʻia nā kiʻi Catwalk me nā kiʻi o kahi paniolo ʻōpio e holo ana i kona lio a me kahi huakaʻi lohi o ʻelima Cadllac ʻeleʻele me nā palapala laikini Celine.

ʻIke ʻo Symphonie Fantastique i ka hoʻihoʻi ʻana mai o ke ʻano o ka lole wīwī a Slimane i kūkulu ai i kāna ʻoihana, me kahi silhouette e kūlou ana i ka makahiki 1960 a me ke kenekulia 19 - nā lole paʻa, ʻoki ʻia ʻekolu pihi, nā ʻaʻahu a me nā pūhaka lima lima, i loko o ka makamae. ʻO nā lole e like me ka siliki, ka cashmere, satin a me ka huluhulu vicuna, i kāʻili ʻia me nā kakaka pussy, nā kāmaʻa, a me nā pāpale haʻi ākea ākea e nānā ʻole ʻia ma Nick Cave a i ʻole Neil Young i kahi kiʻiʻoniʻoni Jim Jarmusch, a i ʻole Johnny Depp i kahi Dior hoʻolaha ʻala.

Akā ʻo nā mea a pau, ʻo ka esthetic ka quintessential Slimane, nā ʻāpana like Parisian bourgeois a me Velvet Underground ʻili.

Hoʻopau ke wikiō me ka pahu juke pahu i ke ahi, a hāmau ke mele: KA HOPE.

Pono anei mākou e ʻike iā "Symphonie Fantastique" ma ke ʻano he aloha a Slimane iā Celine?

Nā lono o ka mea hoʻolālā Ua hoʻomau ka haʻalele ʻana i ka brand, me ka inoa pinepine ʻia ʻo Chanel ma ke ʻano he wahi e hiki mai ana. I ka manawa like, a i ʻole, i ka lā hoʻokahi i hoʻokuʻu ʻia ai ka wikiō Celine, ua haʻi ʻo Chanel i ka piʻi ʻana o ka loaʻa kālā he 16%, e hoʻomaikaʻi ana i ka luna hoʻomohala ʻo Virginie Viard - he "koho o ka hilinaʻi" i ka mea hoʻolālā, e like me ka WWD.

No laila, e noho ʻo ia, a e hele paha?

Mahalo: Celine

Kikokikona: Jesse Brouns