I ka hopena o ka pule i hala, ua nānā ʻo Celine i kāna Smua-kauwela 2025 ohi lole kane, me Hedi Slimane e koho hou ana i ke wikiō YouTube ma mua o ka hōʻike catwalk maoli, a hoʻokani hou ʻia me ka helu maʻamau ma mua o ka pōhaku indie.
He mau mahina i hala aku nei, in kāna wikiō no kēia kau i kēia manawa, ua kiʻi ʻia ʻo Slimane ma ka wao nahele ʻo Mojave a ma ka hui Troubadour Club ma West Hollywood. I kēia manawa, ua koho ʻo ia i kahi pakaua, a me kona kahua palahalaha, ma ka aina o Enelani.
Aloha ʻoe, nā paniolo ʻōpio i ʻaʻahu ʻia i ka ʻili ʻeleʻele - a aloha, luna-papa ʻōpio i ke koliki keʻokeʻo huluhulu a me nā blazers hoe.
No ke aha ʻo "Bright Young"?
me "Ka Opio Alohilohi", Ua hoʻi ʻo Slimane i kāna mau lā haumāna ma ka Ecole du Louvre, kahi i kākau ai ʻo ia i kahi ʻatikala e pili ana i ke kumu o Anglomania, ka makemake Farani no ka ʻano Pelekania, kahi i hoʻomaka ai i ka wā o Versailles. Ua hui pū ka mea hoʻolālā i kekahi o kāna mau koa ponoʻī, e like me ka eccentric English dandy Stephen Tennant (1906-1987), i pili i ke kumu hoʻohālike ʻo Stella Tennant.
Ma nā moʻolelo paʻi, ua hoʻokomo ʻo Slimane i kahi ʻōlelo mai ka mea kākau ʻo Evelyn Waugh Na kino ino: "ʻAʻole ʻoe lohe nui e pili ana i ka manaʻolana i kēia mau lā, ʻeā?... Ua poina lākou i ka manaʻolana, hoʻokahi wale nō ʻino nui ma ka honua i kēia lā. Ka manaʻolana."
Na kino ino, ʻO ka moʻolelo lua a Waugh - ua paʻi ʻia i ka makahiki 1930 - he parody ia o ka Bright Young Things, he hui o Bohemian, pinepine ambiguous ambiguous ʻōpio aristocrats a me socialites ma 1920s London, kahi o Stephen Tennant he lālā. E kākau ʻo Waugh Nānā hou ʻia ʻo Brideshead, ka mea, he mau makahiki ma hope mai, ua lilo ia i moʻo kīwī kaulana a koʻikoʻi.
Ua hoʻoikaika ka moʻo 1981 i ka neʻe ʻana o New Romantics ma ke ʻano Pelekane a me nā mele pop (me Visage a me Duran Duran mua) i kēlā manawa a alakaʻi i nā kiʻiʻoniʻoni. ʻĀina ʻē aʻe a Maurice, a i ka hopena, Pāʻakai.
"Ka Opio Alohilohi" loaʻa nā mea o kēia mau mea a pau. ʻO ia paha kekahi o nā kiʻiʻoniʻoni homoerotic loa a Slimane i hana ai no Celine.
He aha ka loko o ka hōʻiliʻili?
He hōʻiliʻili kiʻekiʻe kēia, me nā lole lole canvas i hana ʻia mai ke kauwela 1920. ʻano hānai kālā a me ka hulu hipa, i ulana hou ia no Celine. Hoʻohana ʻia nā ʻaʻahu me nā pūhaka i ka damask, a i ʻole nā lima i hoʻopaʻa ʻia i ka makahiki 1920s o nā pua pua Pelekane. Hana ʻia nā pālule i ʻoki ʻia a me nā blazer hoe me ka flannel cashmere. ʻO kekahi mau ʻaʻahu hoe waʻa e hōʻike ana i nā ʻāpana trompe lʻoeil couture i kālai ʻia, i hana lima ʻia i loko o nā hale ʻaina o ka brand. Hele mai kekahi o nā ʻāpana me nā ʻāpana heraldic-style i ka mea ka brand wehewehe e like me "kala i poniia nā cannetiles wiliwili", he hana hou ʻana i nā ʻenehana hili i hoʻohana ʻia ma ka i kakahiaka nui Kenekulia 20 kuʻuna ʻaʻahu koa. ʻO nā kāmaʻa - richelieus, mōneka a me tapered derbies - e nānā i nā ʻano lole Pelekane mai ka manawa like.
ʻAʻole naʻe nā ʻōlelo Pelekane a pau: e like me nā moʻolelo paʻi, ua nānā ʻo Slimane i nā kiʻi o ka mea kākau ʻAmelika ʻo F. Scott Fitzgerald ma kahi kipa ʻana i ka Hotel Eden Roc ma Antibes i ka makahiki 1922 i kāna hana ʻana i nā flannels keʻokeʻo Summer cashmere.
Ua paʻi ʻia ke wikiō i Iune i hala, ma Holham Hall, ma Norfolk. Ua ʻoki ʻia ke kani leo mai Jean-Philippe Rameau's Les Indes Galantes, i kākau ʻia i ka makahiki 1736 no kahi ballet ma ka Hale Hōʻikeʻike du Palais-Royal. Ua nalowale ka ʻāpana no nā makahiki he 150, a ua ʻike hou ʻia i ka makahiki 1957, i ka wā i hana ʻia ai ma Versailles ma ke alo o ka Mōʻīwahine o ʻEnelani, ma kahi huakaʻi kūhelu i Farani.
HIKI HOI OE
"Ka Opio Alohilohi" hoʻolauna pū kekahi i kahi ʻala hou i ka ʻohi haute parfumerie a Celine. ʻO kahi Rebours, me nā memo o ka oak moss, cedar, nutmeg, coumarin and cashmeran, kaʻana like i kahi poʻo inoa me ka puke moʻolelo 1884 na Joris-Karl Huysmans - i manaʻo ʻia ʻo ia ka haku o nā palapala decadent.
HEAHA A'E?
No laila, ʻo kēia ka hōʻiliʻili hope a Hedi Slimane no Celine? Nā'ōlelo ʻO ka mea hoʻolālā e haʻalele ana i ka brand ua hoʻomau ʻia no kahi kokoke i hoʻokahi makahiki i kēia manawa, me ka inoa pinepine ʻia ʻo Chanel ma ke ʻano he wahi e hiki mai ana. ʻAʻohe hoʻolaha hou i kēia manawa. ʻO Slimane, aia ma Saint Laurent, Dior, a hoʻi i Saint Laurent ma mua o Celine, ua lawe mau ʻo ia i kona manawa, me nā hoʻomaha hoʻomaha mai ka hoʻolālā kiʻi, e kālele i kāna kiʻi. Ma muli o kāna nānā ʻana i nā kiʻi ʻoniʻoni no Celine, aia paha he kiʻiʻoniʻoni ma hope?
Mahalo: Celine
Kikokikona: Hui hoʻoponopono