Menene Gaba na Glenn Martens da Y/Project?

Gaskiyar: Juma'ar da ta gabata, mai zane Glenn Martens ya sanar da cewa zai tafi Y / Project, Alamar inda yake aiki tun 2013. Watanni da yawa da suka gabata, mai shi kuma mai kafa Gilles Elalouf, ya mutu, ya bar sassansa a cikin kasuwancin ga ɗan'uwansa.

Lokacin da ya gabata, alamar ta soke nunin Makon Fashion na Paris a minti na ƙarshe (a hukumance zuwa "mayar da hankali kan zuba jari na ciki"; A ƙarshe an buɗe tarin tarin a cikin littafin duba wanda ke nuna abokai da dangi azaman samfuri), kuma ba zai nuna wannan watan ba, ma. Yana shiga Ludovic de Saint Sernin, wanda kuma ya fice daga kalandar PFW, ba zato ba tsammani, da kuma brands ciki har da Lanvin, Givenchy da kuma Tom Ford, waɗanda suke prepping su sabon m darektocin na gaba kakar. Abin da zai faru da Y/Project, ya rage a gani.

Martens, a halin yanzu, ya ci gaba da jagorantar alamar jeans na Italiyanci Diesel, inda ya kasance darektan kirkire-kirkire tun Oktoba 2020, tare da nuni a Milan a yammacin ranar 21 ga Satumba.st. Ana kuma sa ran zai sami babban aikin ƙira, mai yuwuwa a wani gida na alfarma, a wani lokaci nan gaba ko nesa.

"MUTUM YAKE YIN TUFAFIN, BA WATA HANYA BA"

An ƙaddamar da Y/Project a matsayin tambarin maza na bayan goth a cikin 2010, ta mai tsara Yohan Serfaty (saboda haka Y a cikin Y/Project).

Bayan Serfaty ya mutu cikin bala'i a cikin 2013, Martens ya karɓi ragamar aiki, sannu a hankali yana aiwatar da muryarsa da hangen nesa, kuma yana faɗaɗa cikin suturar mata, wanda nan da nan ya zama. a babban sashi na kasuwanci. Ba da daɗewa ba Y/Project ya zama babban tasiri da kasuwanci nasara, kuma nuninsa sun kasance daga cikin mafi tsammanin kan kalandar makon Fashion na Paris. Martens an ba da kyautar ANDAM a shekarar 2017.

Mai zanen dan kasar Belgium, wanda ya fito daga Bruges, ya yi karatu a Antwerp's Royal Academy kuma, kamar Martin Margiela a gabansa, ya kaddamar da aikinsa na Paris. Jean Paul Gaultier. Ya yi shawara ga brands kamar Weekday da kuma Boss, kuma yana da nasa, layi mai suna don duk lokutan 3 kafin ɗaukar aikin Y/Project.

"Ina tsammanin yana da mahimmanci cewa tufafinmu suna aiwatar da halayen mutum da ɗabi'a," in ji Martens a cikin Janairu 2019, lokacin da Y/Project ya nuna a Pitti a Florence. “Ma’anar ita ce mutum ya ke yin tufafi, ba akasin haka ba. A zahiri, an tsara komai don sanyawa maza da mata. Kuma suna iya kama su na maza da mata sosai. Ba ma son samar da runduna ta mutane iri daya.”

"Mu ne alamar ra'ayi," in ji shi. “Ko da t-shirt ɗinmu mafi sauƙi yana da karkatacciyar fahimta. Ba ma yin wando ko wando. Tufafin titi yana da wuri a cikin salo. Amma abin da na kasa gane suwaye ne mai tambarin da ya kai Yuro 800. A gare ni, wannan ba kayan alatu ba ne, kuma ba abin da nake so in yi ba ne. Ina ganin dole ne ka dauki kwastomominka da muhimmanci.”

ME ZAI GABA?

Me ke gaba Glenn Martens? A yanzu, shi ne har yanzu m darektan Italiyanci jeanswear iri Diesel, wanda a karkashin jagorancinsa ya zama dacewa sake, bayan shekaru da yawa a cikin fashion doldrums. Ya sake tsara shaguna, ya buɗe nunin Fashion Week na Milan ga jama'a akan matakin da ba a taɓa gani ba, kuma ya ɗauki kasuwancin ƙamshi, lasisi zuwa L'Oréal, a cikin sabon jagora mai ban sha'awa.

Ana sake fasalin yanayin yanayin yanayin sosai a kwanakin nan, kuma kodayake duka biyun Tom Ford da kuma Givenchyzaba sabbin masu zanen kaya a cikin kwanaki bakwai na ƙarshe, har yanzu akwai guraben guraben aiki, a samfuran da suka haɗa da Ta ce Van Noten da kuma Chanel.

Martens zai tafi Maison Margiela, inda aka ce John Galliano zai tafi? The jita-jita suna dagewa. Kuma a, Martens da Margiela 'yan Belgium ne, kuma sunayensu sun fara da haruffa guda uku. Maison Margiela mallakin OTB ne, wanda kungiyar Renzo Rosso ce, kuma shi ne dan kasuwa a bayan Diesel. Martens, kamar Margiela a gabansa, ƙwararren mai zanen avant-garde ne na musamman, tare da hangen nesa wanda ya shiga cikin al'ada. Amma kuma, babban aiki a Margiela na iya zama kyauta mai guba. Galliano ya yi kamar kerkeci a cikin kayan tumaki, yana ture gadon Margiela gaba ɗaya ya mayar da hankali kan abin nasa, kuma ya rage Margiela zuwa tambari ( ɗinki huɗu), takalma tabi, da fararen riguna na lab ga ma'aikata. Sannan akwai Demna, wacce ta yi nasara sosai, ta farko a Clothingsannan a Balenciaga, tare da salo, da hangen nesa, wanda ya kawo wasu ra'ayoyin Margiela zuwa 21st Karni. Sake ƙaddamar da Margiela, a cikin yanayin salon zamani, zai kasance mai wahala.

"Margiela hanya ce ta tunani," Martens ya nuna duk waɗannan shekarun da suka wuce a Florence. "Ina cikin tsararraki da suka girma tare da Margiela, don haka yana da kyau mu koma ga aikinsa. Akwai a connection, wanda hakan ba ya nufin mu kwafa/ liƙa abin da ya yi kawai.”

Martens mai zanen taurari ne; Tabbas ya kai ga aikin kula da Margiela - amma da gaske yana so?

Ladabi: Y/Project gidan yanar gizon hukuma 

Rubutu: Ƙungiyar Edita