BUBUWAN DA HDFASHION / Maris 11, 2024

Saint Laurent FW24: haɓaka abin gado

Babu shakka cewa babban nasarar da Anthony Vaccarello ya samu ita ce ikonsa na fahimta da daidaita gadon Yves Saint Laurent, da kuma gamsasshen haɗin kai na manyan silhouettes na YSL zuwa SL na zamani. Hakan bai faru nan da nan ba kuma ya ɗauki shekaru da yawa, amma yanzu, tare da kowane sabon yanayi, ɗaukar nauyin nasa yana ƙara gamsarwa duka ta fuskar kundi da silhouettes, kuma ta fuskar kayan aiki da laushi.

Da farko, bari muyi magana game da kundin. Lokacin da ƴan shekaru da suka wuce, Vaccarello ya fara nuna madaidaicin riguna masu faɗin kafaɗa masu ƙarfi, waɗanda aka samo daga waɗanda Yves Saint Laurent ya yi a farkon shekarun 1980, shi ne sa hannun sa na farko kai tsaye a gadon Yves - kuma yana da ban sha'awa sosai a hakan. Tun daga wannan lokacin, manyan kafadu sun zama gama gari cewa muna ganin su a zahiri a cikin kowane tarin. A wani lokaci, Vaccarello ya fara rage girman kundin, wanda shine madaidaicin motsi, kuma a cikin SL FW24 akwai 'yan irin wannan jaket da manyan kafadu. Wannan ya ce, akwai mai yawa Jawo - kamar yadda a gaba ɗaya wannan kakar - kuma yana da girma. Kusan kowane samfurin yana da manyan riguna masu laushi - a hannunsu ko a kan kafaɗunsu, amma galibi a cikin hannayensu - kuma sun fito ne daga shahararren haute couture PE1971 tare da guntun gashin gashi mai kyan gani, wanda ya ɗauki mummunan duka daga masu sukar. baya sannan.

Yanzu, da laushi. Idan wannan tarin yana da jigo, to gaskiya ne, wanda ya yi nasara sosai da sabon nunin Yves Saint Laurent: Transparences, Le pouvoir des matieres. Babban abu a nan shi ne m kunkuntar siket, wanda Vaccarello gabaɗaya ya yi babban siffa, kuma akwai kuma m bustiers da, ba shakka, classic YSL m rigunan mata da bakuna. Amma duk wannan bayyananniyar, watakila saboda yawan abin da Vaccarello ya fi so a halin yanzu beige da yashi, wanda ya zama manyan launuka na tarin, yayi kama da latex BDSM kadan, kuma kadan kamar Kubrick's sci-fi. Wannan, ba shakka, shine nau'in jima'i wanda Yves Saint Laurent bai taɓa yi ba, tare da duk sha'awarsa na ɗan ɗanɗano kaɗan, amma ƙwaƙƙwaran bourgeois wanda aka bayyana musamman a cikin shahararrun hotunan Helmut Newton na matan YSL na 1970s. Amma wannan shine daidaitawar ta wanda Vaccarello ya sa SL ya dace a yau.

Zuwa wannan kyakkyawan niche na shekarun 1970s zaku iya ƙara ƙirar fis ɗin da aka yi da fata mai sheki, wanda aka sawa kawai tare da ƙafafu marasa tushe. Kuma lullubin da aka ɗaure a kan kawunan samfuran, da kuma manyan lips ɗin kunne a ƙarƙashinsu - kamar Loulou de La Falaise a cikin shekarun 1970s, wanda aka ɗauka a cikin hotuna tare da Yves a cikin wani gidan rawa na dare, lokacin da su biyu, taurari biyu na bohemian Paris, suke wurin su. babba.

A zahiri, wannan hoton kyawawan kyawun Faransanci da Faransanci na Les Trente glorieuses shine abin da Vaccarello ke watsawa yanzu. Kuma babban mawaƙa na kyawawa na Parisian na al'ada - kasancewar abokansa Catherine Deneuve, Loulou de La Falaise, Betty Catroux, kuna suna - Yves Saint Laurent da kansa, wanda ya yi bikin irin wannan divas, femmes fatale, da sauran abubuwan da suka dace na mata na Parisian na gargajiya. . A yau, Anthony Vaccarello ya yi nasarar sanya wannan hoton nasa, inda ya dawo da shi rayuwa a cikin wannan ingantaccen sigar zamani, yana mai da Yves Saint Laurent a cikin mafi kyawun hotonsa kuma mafi kyawun karbuwa ta shahararrun hotunan al'adu. To, wannan shi ne, kamar yadda Faransanci za ta ce, une très belle tarin, très féminine, wanda za a iya taya shi da gaske - ya gudanar da sauyin YSL daga baya zuwa yanzu da kyau.

Rubutu: Elena Stafyeva