WANDA HDFASHION / Mayu 6, 2024

Louis Vuitton pre-fall 2024: Don neman siffa da silhouette

Nicolas Ghesquière ya nuna tarin kafin faɗuwar 2024 a Shanghai a Long Museum West Bund kuma, abin mamaki, shi ne défilé na farko a China cikin shekaru 10 da ya yi a Louis Vuitton. Watakila ranar tunawa da gidan ne ya sa shi yin haka, da kuma sake duba aikinsa. Domin shine ainihin abin da aka yi a cikin sabon tarinsa - kuma an yi shi ta hanyar da ta fi dacewa.

Da farko, ya kamata a lura cewa Nicolas Ghesquière ya kusantar da shekaru goma a Louis Vuitton a cikin kyakkyawan tsari, watakila mafi kyawun shekaru biyar na ƙarshe. Bugu da kari, a wannan lokacin Ghesquier yana aiki tare da wani matashin dan wasan kasar Sin daga Shanghai, Sun Yitian, wanda dabbobi masu kama da zane-zane - damisa, penguin, bunny mai ruwan hoda tare da LV fleur de lys a idanunsa - bincika manufar "Made in China" yawan samarwa. Wadannan hotuna an riga an gane su sosai, kuma, ba shakka, suturar motar A-line, riguna masu motsi, da ƙananan siket, da jakunkuna da takalma da aka yi wa ado da su, za su zama babban mahimmanci na tarin - kuma babban abin da ke jawo cece-kuce tsakanin masu tattara kayan kwalliya da masu sha'awar kwalliya gaba daya. Kuma wannan sabon salo ne ga Yayoi Kusama, wanda a fili yake yana da mafi girman damar kasuwanci, amma girman girmansa, ta kowace ma'ana ta kalmar, ya riga ya kai iyakar tarihinsa. Kuma, ba shakka, zai zama abin ban mamaki, ban da kyawawan dabbobin zane mai ban dariya, don ganin wani abu mafi alama da ban mamaki daga aikin Sun Yitian, irin su shugaban Medusa ko shugaban Ken da aka gabatar a nunin ta a birnin Paris na karshe. fada.

 

Amma babban abu, kamar kullum tare da Ghesquiere, yana faruwa a waje da sararin kayan ado, amma a cikin sararin samaniya - wato, inda dabbobi masu kama da zane-zane suka ƙare da riguna da aka gina da su, da siket na asymmetrical, da siket waɗanda ke da alama an tsage su cikin wutsiyoyi. tare da madaidaicin saman dogon hannu mara hannu a rufe a ƙarƙashin makogwaro (akwai siket daban-daban a nan gabaɗaya), wando mai kama da wani abu a tsakanin masu furanni da wando na sarouel, da dogon wando na bermuda da aka yi wa ado. Kuma a cikin wannan duka, wasu guda har ma da duka kamannuna suna haskakawa nan da can, suna haifar da jin daɗin jin daɗi: jaket ɗin jirgin sama na fata tare da abin wuyan Jawo, wanda Ghesquière ya yi nasara a farkon aughts Balenciaga, haɗuwa da amfanin gona mai faɗi. saman da siket ɗin asymmetrical daga tarin Balenciaga SS2013, tarinsa na ƙarshe don Balenciaga. A wannan karon, an sami ƙarin irin wannan fitintinu daga maɗaukakin shekarun da suka gabata na Balenciaga fiye da kowane lokaci - kuma hakan ya sa zukatan magoya bayansa na dogon lokaci su yi ta girgiza.

Amma nostalgia bai taɓa zama abin motsa bayan ƙirar Ghesquière ba. Akasin haka, koyaushe yana kasancewa nan gaba, sa ido, ba wai baya don neman sabbin nau'ikan ba. Kuma lokacin da kuka ga jerin manyan riguna na fata na murabba'i masu nauyi tare da madaidaicin ɗakuna da aljihuna ko jerin riguna na ƙarshe na tulip-skirted, kun gane cewa Ghesquiere ya fara wannan duka duban babban hits ɗinsa a cikin shekaru da tarin ba don dalilai na jin daɗi ba, amma a matsayin neman hanyoyin zuwa gaba. Kuma yana kan hanyarsa tuni - bincikensa na siffa da silhouette da sake fasalin nasa tarihin kawai ya tabbatar da hakan.

Hoton hoto: Louis Vuitton

Rubutu: Elena Stafyeva