A PARIS, TUFAFIN YAWAN JI KAMAR BAYAN TUNANI

Kusan za ku iya jin naɗar ganguna a wajen Makon Kaya na Paris. Akwai shakku a cikin iska. Bayan shekaru takwas a Gucci. Alessandro Michele zai sa ya zama babban darektan zane-zane na Valentino, wani gidan kayan gargajiya na Italiyanci, kodayake ya fi karami. Shin zai sake rubuta wani labarin nasara? Kuma fiye da haka, shin zai iya sake ƙirƙira kansa? An kawata dakin kaman wani gidan da aka watsar, tare da fashe-fashe na madubi da kyalle-kyalkyawar kura da suka lullube kayan kayan gargajiya. Samfuran sun yi kama da sun tashi daga nesa mai nisa, watakila shekarun 1970. Ba da daɗewa ba ya bayyana a fili cewa Michele ya ci gaba da kasancewa mafi girman girman kansa, ko da yake ya ƙara dalla-dalla daga tarihin tarihin Valentino.

An cakude martani. Masu bita da suka kafa sun yaba wa Michele, tare da wasu ƴan banban, yayin da masu son ilimin zamani na Instagram, galibi, sun makale yatsunsu a cikin makogwaronsu. Gaskiya, kamar yadda sau da yawa, ya kwanta a wani wuri a tsakiya. Menene Valentino Garavani da kansa ya yi? Mai zanen yana da shekaru 93 kuma bai bayyana a bainar jama'a ba na ɗan lokaci. Abokin aikinsa, Giancarlo Giammetti, ya halarci kuma ya yi kama da sabon jagorar Michele. Ƙarshe, kawai abin da ke da mahimmanci shine ƙididdigar tallace-tallace na gaba bazara. Na jakunkuna, musamman. Valentino ya yi kasa a gwiwa a wannan rukunin. Kuma Michele ya kamata ya yi fice a jaka. 

Ana cikin haka, an sami rudani a cikin iska. Duk cikin fashion mako, mutane ci gaba da cewa Gucci lokacin da suke da gaske nufin Valentino, da Valentino a lõkacin da suka nufi Gucci. Komai ya hade wuri guda. Babu wani abu da ya yi kama da ma'ana. 

Amma a lokacin, duk satin salon ya ji dadi, kamar dai duk masana'antar sun sha fama da rikicin ainihi. A karon farko a cikin abin da ke jin kamar shekarun da suka gabata, salon yana da jure wa raguwar tallace-tallace da riba. Masu amfani da alama sun gaji da salon. Da alama babu wanda ya san yadda ake gyara abubuwa kuma. 

Kusan kuna iya jin tsoro da ruɗani kuma, fiye da komai, da ban tsoro. Ba a yi farin ciki makon fashion ba. Dior yana da maharba na Olympic a kan catwalk, harbin kiban (babu wanda ya ji rauni). Chanel ya gina kejin tsuntsu a ƙarƙashin gilashin gilashin Grand Palais da aka sabunta kwanan nan kuma ya sake yin kamfen ɗin kamshi na 1991 tare da tauraro Vanessa Paradis, ba tare da Paradis ba - alamar tana da Riley Keough yana rera waƙa daga lilo maimakon. A cikin duka biyun, yawancin tufafin sun kasance kamar tunani ne.

BalmainDuk tarin abubuwan sun ji kamar talla don sabon layin kayan shafa. Akwai ingantaccen wasan kwaikwayo a Saint Laurent, da tafiya zuwa Disneyland, tare da samun dama ga wasu tafiye-tafiye kyauta, ladabi na Coperni.

Rikicin ainihi na Fashion ya fara a Milan, inda manyan alamun daga Versace zuwa Dolce & Gabbana to Prada bai ma damu da kawo wani sabon abu ba. Kawai sun sake sabunta nasu repertoire. Donatella Versace ta waiwaya kan tarin 1997 daga Versus, alamar inda ta ɗauki matakan farko lokacin da ɗan'uwanta Gianni yana raye. Dolce & Gabbana sun biya haraji ga Madonna, kusan 1991, a cikin jigon Jean Paul Gaultier (Identity Crisis Squared). A Cavalli, manyan samfura bakwai a cikin guda bakwai na kayan tarihi sun yi aiki a matsayin girmamawa ga wanda ya kafa Roberto Cavalli, wanda ya mutu a watan Afrilu. A Prada, Miuccia Prada da Raf Simons suna da jigo mai ban sha'awa - menene algorithm ke yi mana duka - amma a ƙarshe, su ma sun zaɓi jakar kama na baya, tare da sake dawowa na tsoffin nasarori. 

Har ila yau, akwai wasu labarai masu kyau a Milan: nunin shekaru goma na Sunnei, inda samfurin ya kasance 'tsohuwar' (babu wanda ya kai shekaru 60), amma ba tufafi ba; da anarchic chic na Bally (an yi magana da mai zane Simone Bellotti nan da can a matsayin ɗan takara don matsayi a Dries Van Noten); kuma Bottega Veneta, ko da yake mutane sun yi magana game da saitin fiye da game da tufafi (jerin 'Sacco' jakunkuna daga kayan daki na Zanotta da aka sake fassara a matsayin dabbobi, akan sayarwa daga 6,000 Tarayyar Turai. 

Glenn Martens ya canza wurin Diesel zuwa wani teku mai tsiri na denim da aka sake yin fa'ida. Kafin satin fashion, Martens yayi bankwana da sauran ma'aikacinsa, Y/Project a Paris. Wataƙila yana shirin yin babban aiki a babban lakabin. Wataƙila Maison Margiela, inda aka ce John Galliano zai tafi. Gidan yana da mai gida tare da Diesel, don haka zai zama ma'ana.

Kasuwanci yana da muni, mutane da yawa kamar sun daina sana'a, ko dai saboda ba za su iya ba ko kuma sun koshi. Ko kuma suna iya yin shinge da fare. Wanene ya san abin da zai faru a shekara mai zuwa, yaushe Sara Burton, Haider Ackermann kuma Peter Copping zai fara halarta a Givenchy, Tom Ford da Lanvin, bi da bi? Waɗannan samfuran ba su nan daga kalandar nunin wannan kakar.

Dukansu Chanel da Dries Van Noten sun nuna tarin tarin yawa daga ƙungiyar a cikin canji. Za mu iya lura da wani abu idan babu wanda ya sanar da mu game da tafiyar Virginie Viard ko Dries Van Noten? Wataƙila ba. Da mun ƙididdige tarin Van Noten a matsayin ba abin haskakawa ba a cikin dogon aikin mai zane - yana iya rasa wasu gaggawa - amma har yanzu yana da kyau. A daidai lokacin da aka fara wasan kwaikwayon, Van Noten da abokin aikinsa, Patrick Vangheluwe, cikin basira sun zauna a ƙarshen layi na gaba. Yayin da wasan ya ƙare, kamar yadda motsin rai ya rinjaye shi, duk da haka yawancin farin ciki. Kuma yayin da ba shi da alaƙa da tufafin da ke kan catwalk, lokaci ne mai taɓawa da ba kasafai ba.

Akwai wasu lokuta masu kyau a cikin Paris. A Rick Sauna, alal misali, inda sararin sama ya share mintuna goma kafin almubazzarancinsa na waje, wanda Hollywood ta 1930 ya yi wahayi, ya shirya farawa. Comme des Garçons baya gazawa don burgewa. Mai taken 'Makoma mara tabbas', yawanci akan bege ne. Ko, a cikin kalmomin Rei Kawakubo - wanda aka kwatanta, kamar yadda ya saba, ta mijinta, Adrian Joffe: 'Tare da yanayin duniya kamar yadda yake, makomar gaba ba ta da tabbas kamar yadda yake, idan kun sanya iska da gaskiya a cikin haɗuwa da abubuwa, akwai yuwuwar bege.' Tare da sifofi irin na merengue da yawa - ko, mai yiyuwa, gajimare - nuni ne mai ɗagawa. Ee, nan gaba ba ta da tabbas, don haka muna iya kasancewa da kyakkyawan fata. 

Julie Kegels, matashiyar mai zanen Belgium, ta nuna a kusa da ƙaramin tafki na wani ginin gidaje na 1950 a cikin ƙauyen 16th na chic. Ya kasance farkon farkonta a kalandar hukuma, kuma ta yi nasarar canza wata maraice mai sanyi, sanyin kaka zuwa wani dare mai zafi mai zafi a kusa da tafkin wani wurin shakatawa mai nisa.

Kegels sun yi fice, kamar yadda takwararta ta Belgium Marie Adam-Leenaerdt, matasa masu zanen Holland Zomer da Duran Lantink, da Rokh na Koriya ta Kudu na London suka yi. Daga cikin gidajen alatu, Loewe da Balenciaga ne kawai ke da nunin gamsarwa. A Loewe, Jonathan Anderson ya tambayi kansa: “Menene zai faru idan mutum ya ɗauke dukan hayaniya?” Nunin ya kasance game da raguwa - an gudanar da shi a cikin wani wurin da wani ɗan ƙaramin gunki na Tracey Emin ya yi wa ado a kan perch - amma tarin ba, a zahiri magana ba, ƙaramin t-shirts ɗin fuka-fukan da ke nuna Van Gogh ko Mozart sun kasance misali. . Abubuwan da suka fi dacewa: baƙar fata fata, da kyawawan riguna na fure-fure.

Demna na Balenciaga yana da tebur-aka-cawalk mai tsayin mita 48 don manyan baƙi su zauna a ciki, yayin da baƙi na yau da kullun ke kallo daga masu yin bleachers. Nunin ya kasance ba zato ba tsammani. Britney Spears ya rera waka "Gimme More" akan faifan sautin, yayin da yara maza sanye da kananan wandon jeans da gajerun bama-bamai masu fadi, zagaye kafadu suka tako kan teburin. Ga 'yan mata, akwai kayan kamfai, trompe l'oeil ko wani abu. Tarin, in ji Demna, "labarai ce ga salon da ke da ra'ayi."

Ba'amurke-Ba-Amurke, duo-duo na Paris ALL-IN yana da wasan kwaikwayo mai ban sha'awa daidai, a cikin wani ofis da aka watsar a bene na 40 na Tour Montparnasse, don tarin ƙyalli na biyar, Uptown Girl. Yana ɗaya daga cikin 'yan kaɗan waɗanda suka sami bugun bugun jini da sauri. "'Yan mata kawai suna son jin daɗi" sun yi ta cikin ɗakin, yayin da Hasumiyar Eiffel ta yi yawo daga nesa. Simintin gyare-gyaren, wanda galibin jinsi ne - ba shi da aibi. Lotte Volkova ne ya tsara wasan kwaikwayon, mai sihirin salon canza yanayin Miu Miu tarin zuwa zinariya - Prada ta biyu line iya zama babbar hayaniya na lokacin da kuma daya daga cikin 'yan haske spots a cikin alatu masana'antu ta halin yanzu kudi maƙunshi.

DUK-IN, kamar Balenciaga, kawo makamashi ga fashion hira, da kuma sha'awa. Sun kasance fun. Na ɗan lokaci, mun sake jin da rai. Fashion zai rayu a kan, kuma a kan, ko da menene. Sai daya daga cikin lif a Tour Montparnasse ya kai mu hawa 40. Hasumiyar Eiffel ta yi duhu. Aka sake yin ruwan sama.

Text: Jesse Brouns ne