Dior Menswear SS2025: Yadda ake zama Mutumin Zamani

Kim Jones ya yi ta yin tsokaci game da sha'awar sa ga marubuciyar Burtaniya Virginia Woolf, kuma ya kuma nuna sha'awar sa a kai a kai ga Rukunin Bloomsbury, yayin da aka sadaukar da tarin SS23 ga Duncan Grant, wani memba na kungiyar kuma abokin rayuwa na dogon lokaci. mai zane Vanessa Bell, 'yar'uwar Virginia Woolf, da gidansu da lambun su, Charleston Farmhouse. Kim Jones kuma babban ƙwararren masani ne kuma mai tattara tukwane da kayan tukwane, musamman waɗanda masu fasahar Rukunin Bloomsbury suka yi. Ta yaya duk waɗannan ke da alaƙa da tarin kayan maza na Dior na yanzu SS2025? Ga yadda: ƙaunarsa ga tukwane ya kawo Jones zuwa Afirka ta Kudu don ziyartar mai fasaha Hylton Nel, wanda ke aiki da yumbu - kuma Nel ya shirya don nunin SS2025, yana faɗaɗa shahararrun karnuka da kuliyoyi zuwa manyan girma, kuma a cikin salon Burtaniya sosai. na ban dariya mara hankali, da kayan sawa suna kishingiɗa kamar odalisques da doggies ɗin da aka zana tare da fensir cikin ƙarfi da alaƙa da clichés na ta'aziyyar Victorian.

Tarin da kansa ba shi da alaƙa mai ƙarfi kai tsaye ga duk waɗannan, amma irin waɗannan abubuwan sun bayyana akan ƙwanƙolin da za a iya cirewa waɗanda aka sawa a kan riguna na trapeze ko kuma an yi amfani da su don rigunan turtleneck. Amma yadda aka yi duk wannan da tabbaci da dabara - mahimmancin Kim Jones tailoring a cikin nau'i na wando ko gajeren wando tare da jaket da dogon ko gajere sako-sako, maimaita siffar gargajiya na gargajiya, amma tare da canji mai ban mamaki a cikin rabbai, ko kuma ba zato ba tsammani ya juya zuwa. hybrid na mahara da kafe. Kuma sun kasance tare da takalma masu nauyi tare da yatsan yatsan yatsa masu tunawa da kullun ko takalman aiki tare da safa da aka rufe a cikin irin wannan kitties da doggies. Katigans masu haske ko gajere, rigunan riguna maras hannu masu matsewa tare da ƙwanƙwasa masu siffar hadiyewa tare da runguma da huluna masu ban sha'awa, kamar na bakin tekun da aka lakafta tare da wasu nau'ikan beads da lu'u-lu'u a gefen gefen (masu sana'a na Afirka ta Kudu suka ƙirƙira), wanda aka tsara, ba shakka. da Stephen Jones. Amma ba ma game da ra'ayoyin mutum ɗaya ba ne, amma yadda duk ya yi aiki tare, yana juya zuwa tarin kayan zamani na zamani.

Tsananin nunin shine kalmar "Dior ga dukan abokaina" da aka buga akan gayyata na défilé, kuma waɗannan kalmomi sun ɗauki ainihin abin da Kim Jones yake yi, da kuma ainihin abin da ya sa ya zama mafi kyau, idan ba mafi kyau ba. , Masu zanen maza na zamani.

Babu wani abin almubazzaranci a cikin wannan tarin, babu wani abu mai ban sha'awa ko ban sha'awa, kamar, alal misali, a cikin tarin wannan bazara ko ma a cikin tarin kaka mai zuwa, inda akwai abubuwa masu ban mamaki, kamar dogayen riguna masu kyan gani. A wannan karon, Kim Jones bai ma sami ɗaukarsa ba musamman tare da ribbon da ya fi so, majajjawa, da sauran abubuwa masu tashi da aka ba su tare da kowane irin ruwa na jinsi (ko da wando tare da lallausan ya dogara ne akan zanen suturar mata daga tarihin Dior). Ya mayar da hankalinsa gaba daya kan wasan tare da gwargwado, lokacin da fadi-fadi, amma ba dogon gajeren wando ba ya bayyana gwiwoyi, kuma rigunan rigar rigar rigar hannu marasa hannu da aka sawa da su sun cika biceps, lokacin da a fili ya kamata ya zama fadi da tsayi. An yanke rigar ruwan sama ba zato ba tsammani ko da guntun wando da aka sawa da shi -- kuma duka tarin ya cika da irin wadannan wuraren. Sakamakon shi ne tufafin da ba za a iya ingantawa ba ga mutumin zamani, wanda ya ƙunshi cikakkiyar fahimta har ma da al'adun gargajiya - wando, guntun wando, jaket, ruwan sama - amma ba tare da wani nau'i na al'ada na maza ba. Tufafi ga dukkan abokaina.

Mai ladabi: Dior

Rubutu: Elena Stafyeva