Celine: Hedi Slimane's Bright Young Men

A ƙarshen makon da ya gabata, Celine ta samfoti Sbazara-Summer 20Tarin kayan maza 25, tare da Hedi Slimane sake zabar bidiyon YouTube maimakon ainihin wasan kwaikwayo na catwalk, kuma an sake yin sauti tare da maki na gargajiya maimakon indie rock.

Bayan 'yan watannin da suka gabata, in bidiyon sa na wannan lokacin, Slimane yayi fim a cikin hamadar Mojave da kuma a cikin almara Troubadour Club a West Hollywood. A wannan karon, ya zaɓi wani castle, da kuma filayensa, a cikin karkarar Ingila.

Bankwana, matasa ƙauyen sanye da baƙar fata - kuma sannu, babba-aji matasa a cikin farin cricket ulun ulu da masu yin kwale-kwale.

ME YA SA "MATASA MAI HASKI"?

tare da "Matashi Mai Haske", Slimane ya koma lokacin karatunsa a Ecole du Louvre, inda ya taba rubuta makala a kan asalin Anglomania, sha'awar Faransanci ga salon Ingilishi, wanda ya samo asali ne a zamanin Versailles. Mai zanen ya gauraya a cikin ƴan jaruman nasa, kamar ɗan littafin ɗan Ingilishi Stephen Tennant (1906-1987), wanda ke da alaƙa da ƙirar Stella Tennant.

A cikin bayanan latsawa, Slimane ya haɗa da zance daga marubuci Evelyn Waugh's Mugun Jiki: "Ba ku ji da yawa game da bege kwanakin nan, ko?... Sun manta da dukan bege, akwai babban mugunta guda ɗaya a duniya a yau. Rashin yanke ƙauna."

Mugun Jiki, Waugh's na biyu novel - an buga shi a 1930 - shi ne parody na Bright Young Things, ƙungiyar Bohemian, sau da yawa jima'i matasa aristocrats da zamantakewa a cikin 1920s London, wanda Stephen Tennant ya kasance memba. Waugh zai ci gaba da rubutawa An sake duba Brideshead, wanda, bayan shekaru da yawa, ya juya zuwa jerin shirye-shiryen talabijin masu yabo da tasiri.

Jerin 1981 ya yi wahayi zuwa ga New Romantics motsi a cikin salon Burtaniya da kiɗan pop (ciki har da Visage da farkon Duran Duran) a lokacin kuma ya jagoranci fina-finai ciki har da Wata Kasa da kuma Maurice, kuma a ƙarshe, Saltburn.

"Matashi Mai Haske" yana da abubuwan duk waɗannan. Wataƙila yana ɗaya daga cikin mafi yawan fina-finai na homoerotic Sliman ya yi wa Celine.

MENENE ACIKIN TARIN?

Wannan babban tarin tarin yawa ne, tare da tela na zane da aka yi daga lokacin bazara na 1920 cashmere da ulu, wanda aka gyara don Celine. Ana sawa kwat da wando a cikin damask, ko kuma an yi wa ado da hannu a cikin 1920s motifs na furannin filin Ingilishi. Jaket ɗin da aka gyara da riguna an yi su da flannel cashmere. Wasu rigunan kwale-kwalen suna da kayan kwalliyar trompe l'oeil couture, wanda aka yi da hannu a cikin kayan kwalliyar alamar. Wasu daga cikin guntuwar sun zo tare da faci irin na heraldic a cikin me da alama ya bayyana kamar haka "azurfa da aka goge cannetiles nadi", haifuwa na dabarun yin ado da aka yi amfani da su a ciki da farkon 20-karni al'adar kakin soja. Takalmin - richelieus, sufaye da tapered Derbyes - koma zuwa British dress styles daga lokaci guda.

Amma ba duk nassoshi ba ne na Burtaniya: bisa ga bayanan latsawa, Slimane ya kalli hotunan marubucin Ba’amurke F. Scott Fitzgerald a ziyarar da ya kai otal din Eden Roc a Antibes a 1922 lokacin da ya kera farar faren cashmere na bazara.

An yi fim ɗin bidiyon a watan Yunin da ya gabata, a Holham Hall, a Norfolk. An yanke sautin sautin daga Jean-Philippe Rameau's Les Indes Galantes, wanda aka rubuta a cikin 1736 don wasan ballet a gidan wasan kwaikwayo na Palais-Royal. An rasa wannan yanki fiye da shekaru 150, kuma an sake gano shi a cikin 1957, lokacin da aka yi shi a Versailles a gaban Sarauniyar Ingila, a ziyarar aiki a Faransa.

ZAKA IYA KASANCEWA SHIMA

"Matashi Mai Haske" Hakanan yana gabatar da sabon ƙamshi ga tarin haute parfumerie Celine. A Rebours, tare da bayanin kula na itacen oak, itacen al'ul, nutmeg, coumarin da cashmeran, suna raba suna tare da littafin 1884 na Joris-Karl Huysmans - wanda aka ɗauke shi babban aikin adabi.

ME ZAI GABA?

Don haka, shin wannan shine tarin Hedi Slimane na ƙarshe na Celine? Jita-jita na zanen barin alamar sun kasance kusan kusan shekara guda yanzu, tare da Chanel sau da yawa ana kiran su azaman makoma ta gaba. Kawo yanzu dai babu wani sabon sanarwar. Slimane, wanda ya kasance a Saint Laurent, Dior, kuma ya dawo a Saint Laurent kafin Celine, koyaushe yana ɗaukar lokacinsa, gami da hutu da yawa daga ƙirar ƙirar, don mai da hankali kan ɗaukar hoto. Ganin ya mayar da hankali a kan fashion fina-finan ga Celine, shin akwai wani movie na gaba?

Mai ladabi: Celine

Rubutu: Ƙungiyar Edita