GUCCI Rushly Returns to its Roots

Since Sabato De Sarno abruptly stepped down earlier this month after a short tenure, many would assume that the 2025-26 Fall/Winter season marks his final collection. Contrary to guests' expectations, however, the show’s invitation and venue were entirely drenched in the green of the "Web Stripe," seemingly erasing any trace of Sabato’s signature "Ancora Red." The press emphasized that significant revisions were made to the collection at the last minute and that seamstresses were working right up until the show. This claim appears credible, as many looks echoed the 2023-24 Fall/Winter collection, which had been created by the studio team. While the designs felt more grounded in reality—subdued and composed—traces of Sabato’s design philosophy remained, albeit in a more updated form.

The collection, which depicted Gucci-ism across past, present, and future, distilled the brand’s design codes from the late 1960s—when ready-to-wear was first introduced—up to the present day. The show featured boxy silhouettes and mini lengths from the '60s, business-like suit sets, slim tailoring and fetishistic lingerie from Tom Ford’s '90s era, and pointed-toe pin heels. Echoes of Alessandro Michele’s eccentric styling were also present, creating a tapestry of the brand’s history.

Acidic color combinations, airy blouses with trailing trains, and outerwear with deep slits and intricate gathers at the back showcased masterful pattern-making techniques, all evoking Sabato’s influence. The dialogue between structure and fluidity continued through innovative textiles such as brushed mohair shirts, mother-of-pearl-infused leather, coated wool, and bonded bouclé—an embodiment of the fusion between tradition and modernity.

At the heart of the collection, which focused on Gucci’s aesthetic, was sprezzatura—the art of effortless elegance, where calculated nonchalance elevates perfection. Scarves were casually wrapped over caps, tops were intentionally left out over camisoles, and shoulder bags were worn wrapped around the wrist. This deliberate “undone” styling reinterpreted bourgeois fashion for the modern era.

Unifying all eras was one of the house’s most iconic motifs: the horsebit. Scattered throughout like elements of pop art, the horsebit was transformed into bold jewelry pieces, adorned waist chains on backless dresses, and appeared as a defining detail on numerous leather goods. Marking its 70th anniversary, the Gucci Horsebit 1955 bag evolved with a newly softened structure.

As the show concluded, dozens of design team members appeared on stage, bowing in unison. What was emphasized here is that they are a far greater presence than the person who holds the title of Creative Director. The brand's foundation lies in the strength of its design team, whose collective work continues to define Gucci’s present and future. While the house’s legacy remains intact, each creative director adds their own touch, paving the way for the next evolution of Gucci.

Text: Elie Inoue

Courtesy: Gucci