German Expressionist Dance Harmonized With Ferragamo

Ferragamo's Creative Director, Maximilian Davis, continues his exploration of the world of dance, following last season’s focus on ballet. This season, he draws particular inspiration from the wardrobe of German "Tanztheater" (dance theater). The visual echoes of German Expressionist dance from the 1920s―a pivotal period for modern dance―and its revival in the 1980s are seamlessly woven into the collection through Davis’s unique perspective, creating a timeless harmony.

"Ferragamo has long been known for using flowers in prints and embroidery," Davis remarked backstage, noting that while researching the archives, he discovered numerous shoes adorned with floral details. With a focus on the flowers featured in the brand's designs, the show venue was decorated with a red carpet covered in petals. Dresses were embellished with delicate floral embroidery, while shoes incorporated flowers crafted from organza, leather, and satin―adorning almond-toe pumps and sandal straps that wrapped elegantly around the calves.

Straight-cut silk slip dresses featured drop-waist lace appliqués and shearing fragments collaged together, while details inspired by the uniforms of that era were incorporated into practical leather pieces and tailored garments. Ethereal prints appeared alongside handbags surrealistically stuffed with fur, while familiar wardrobe staples were fluidly reimagined in jersey knit beyond the stage.

Davis remarked, "The idea of giving something everyday a slightly unsettling quality was very interesting to me. It creates a sense of discord just as expected."

That sense of “discord” was driven by the same spirit that inspired the Tanztheater revival movement of the 1970s and 1980s. A sleek satin trench coat that clings to the body with a belt, the striking contrast between soft cashmere and glossy leather, flattened feathers, and poppy flowers extending from ribbon-like stems.

Throughout the collection, the poetic duality of German theater performances was vividly expressed―an emotional dialogue between love and longing, freedom and control, romance and passion.

This was the most well-balanced and compelling collection Ferragamo has presented, resonating with the contemporary mood. The refined silhouettes and understated color palette harmonized seamlessly with the timeless wardrobe archetypes favored by Bausch. The essence of "Tanztheater" was deeply reflected―elegant yet effortless everyday dressing intertwined with free choreography and unrestrained expression.

Courtesy: Ferragamo

Text: Elie Inoue