Female and Masculine Identities of Yves Saint Laurent

Every show of Saint Laurent by Anthony Vacarello is a celebration of the house founder’s legacy. This time was no exception, as the designer decided to play with the wardrobe codes of Yves Saint Laurent and his muses, quintessential femme fatales, who could easily pull up pieces from their lovers’ wardrobes.    

Feminine and Masculine

This season, Anthony Vaccarello is inspired by the dressing of Yves Saint Laurent, reinterpreting it for the female silhouette with oversized tailored double-breasted jackets in taupe, grey and black, stacked with trenches, leather bombers and silky sleepwear gowns. Most of the silhouettes were styled with eye-catching square pilots: Saint-Laurent used to wear a similar model, which became his signature. There was also an imaginary Yves, who would have dressed in embroidered state-of-the-art fitted jackets and mini skirts (a nod to Vincent Van Gogh, and the Spring-Summer 1988 collection where YSL paid tribute to his Irises and Sunflowers) if he had a chance to step in the woman’s shoes himself.

Saint Laurent’s Muses

Paying tribute to the couturier’s favourite models, all looks from the collections are named after Saint Laurent’s muses: Betty, Loulou, Carla, Iman, Katoucha, Bettina, Dovima (with some of them in attendance on Tuesday night). At times, one could feel that Loulou de la Falaise was probably the most present of them all thanks to the chunky beaded wooden necklaces, layered upon one another, massive golden cuff bracelets, and vintage-inspired statement XXL earrings.

Homecoming

For the first time, the show was held on Rue de Bellechasse which houses the headquarters of the iconic house. Anthony Vacarello wanted to escape the concept of staging a massive show at Trocadero Fountains and also constructing something that would strip Parisians and guests of the City of Lights of enjoying beautiful views: after all, we have had enough of extra ephemeral spaces during the Olympics and Paralympics. The guests were seated on black leather Mies van der Rohe stools (Yves’ favourite), enjoying how models bravely marched on the catwalk under the pouring rain with a golden backdrop and Yves Klein blue floor, a nod to Saint Laurent’s home in sunny Marrakesh. ​

Courtesy: Saint Laurent

Text: Lidia Ageeva