Dream Big: how Coperni Took Over Disneyland

The design duo behind one of fashion’s hottest labels, Paris-based Coperni, just capped off Paris Fashion Week with one of the most unexpected presentations in years; they turned the venue for every child’s fantasy into a catwalk. “We grew up with Disney, and it was an important part of our childhood. For many French children, particularly those from the provinces, the first family visit to the «big city Paris» meant a trip to Disneyland Paris,” designers Sebastien Meyer and Arnaud Vaillant explain. “Our collection tells a story of ourselves — the princes and princesses, rebellious teenagers, and powerful heroes and villains we all have the capacity to represent. It reflects how we feel today, what we wear to dance with friends, scream on roller coasters, attend galas, feel nostalgic, and explore the unknown. Most of all, tonight we hope to share with you our collective sense of wonder and joy — a sense of awe of what we humans hold within us.”

The collection utilised a variety of Disney motifs, including Sleeping Beauty tiaras, Beauty and the Beast’s enchanted rose, Maleficent’s horns, Mickey Mouse’s ears and Cinderella’s shredded dress material, and incorporated them onto a range of both clothing and accessories. Stretchy black mini jumpsuits and dresses were paired with detached grandiose organza puff sleeves in pastry pinks and blues, as well as thigh-high hems of voluminously flowing satin. The Swipe Bag was reimagined in Disney blue using something called the Rapid Liquid Print laboratory and their “gravity-free” technique; it 3D prints each bag within minutes inside a gel suspension. And lastly, Coperni’s embrace of the questionable, yet ever-more present, pronounced-toe shoes should be acknowledged. Seen worn by a growing number of editors and fashion-goers the past handful of seasons, Vibram’s FiveFingers shoes and similar styles are becoming a fixture — especially after the collaboration with the coolest label, OTTO 958 by Kiko Kostadinov and Morán Morán gallery. In line with their laid-back vibe, for their take on the shoe, Coperni toned down and slicked out the toes’ silhouette — a somewhat more approachable design.

The end of several successive multi-continent fashion weeks can really drain even the most seasoned, prepared and organized in the industry. With this in mind, Coperni still pushed to close out fashion month in the privatized venue an hour and a half outside of the Parisian city limits. And though they’re generally heralded for their innovative and smart ideas, like the aforementioned 3D Swipe Bag, there are a number of things that arguably overshadowed the production. For one thing, controversy emerged over a vintage Disney T-shirt that appeared on the runway, which was apparently sold on Vinted for €8 just three weeks earlier. The seller posted on X about it and the fact that the Coperni assistant designer who bought it tried to get him down €2 on the price. This is further compounded by the fact that there are also rumours [discussed here on Konbini] that the majority of the show’s budget went towards the celebrity casting of Kylie Jenner, who then delivered an arguably underwhelming finale to the show in her simple princess dress. Leaving us all to wonder if is it really what we are dreaming of.

Courtesy: Coperni

Text: Paige Silveria