Dior Takes Us to Adventures in Fairy Tales

In today's prêt-à-porter fashion, the focus of creation has shifted towards a theme of everyday elegance, emphasizing realistic and wearable designs. Dior, as a trendsetter, is one such brand responding to customer demand for couture that can be incorporated into daily wear, offering many practical looks over the past few seasons. While the boundary between prêt-à-porter and couture is becoming increasingly blurred, this season, Dior seemed to redefine the meaning of couture, inviting guests into a "dream world" crafted by meticulous handwork.

This season, Maria Grazia Chiuri drew inspiration from Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland, seemingly reconnecting with the essence of fashion through a childlike perspective, awakening the inner child within herself. The venue, set up in the gardens of the Rodin Museum to complement the collection, was adorned with nine woven and embroidered panels crafted by artisans from Mumbai’s Chanakya workshop and the Chanakya School of Craft, with whom Dior has been collaborating for several years. Among the key themes of this immersive installation, freedom, timelessness, and female empowerment were particularly emphasized, symbolized through recurring eye motifs and vibrant, nature-inspired designs.

Amidst this fantastical setting, the dreamlike world unveiled on the runway evoked a flower-filled landscape where a spirited young girl frolics freely. Mini crinolines paired with frilled bloomer pants, pannier skirts, and hoop skirts were draped in leaves and adorned with wild embroidery of blooming flowers. Drawing from the history of fashion itself, this season revisited fundamental themes of creativity spanning past centuries.

The crinoline, reimagined in a modern and practical form, became a vessel for boundless fantasy and motifs. The concealed framework of the swaying cage-like structures extended threads like embroidered branches, undulating gracefully with movement. Seamlessly weaving through different eras, from 17th-century tailcoats to Edwardian leg-of-mutton sleeves and tiered capes, the collection painted a dramatic vision of an otherworldly enchanted garden.

As the collection traced the evolution of fashion, it also paid homage to the history of the Maison. The silhouette of La Cigale, originally designed by Monsieur Dior, was reinterpreted in its signature moiré fabric, appearing as a combination of a short skirt and a fitted tailcoat. A tribute was made to Yves Saint Laurent’s iconic trapeze-line silhouette, which introduced at Dior. This homage took the form of a black mini dress adorned with ruffles at the shoulders, exuding a quiet yet commanding presence. Its enigmatic aura evoked the image of a bewitching character deceiving Alice, adding a touch of dark enchantment to the collection.

In the latter half of the collection, it no longer seemed as if the girl was merely adorned with flowers—rather, she appeared to transform into a flower herself. Puff details scattered throughout the designs resembled flower buds, while layers of cascading tulle, carefully arranged into capes, mimicked delicate petals. Fringes dangling from crinolines took on the appearance of vines, and golden embroidered flowers on tulle evoked the look of pressed blossoms. Leotards were layered with bouquets of dried flowers, creating the illusion of skirts, while floral lace intertwined with crinolines shaped them into topiary-like structures. A blouse with softly inflated puff sleeves, reminiscent of budding flowers, was also adorned with floral lace. These looks conjured the image of fairies playing hide-and-seek in a flower field, blending seamlessly with their surroundings. Generous use of structured tulle, sculpted into peplums, ruffles, and dramatic twists, gave birth to dresses that seemed as if the wearer was nestled within a bloom itself.

Chiuri revisited centuries of fashion through the eyes of a child, freely engaging her imagination with various creative approaches. By employing the finest materials and masterful craftsmanship, she wove a dream of haute couture—one that prêt-à-porter could never fully realize. In a chaotic reality where the future is uncertain and even dreaming feels difficult, this fantastical realm shone all the more brilliantly.

Courtesy: Dior

Text: Elie Inoue