Demna’s Study of Standard Dress Codes for Balenciaga

A highlight of Parisian Fashion Week, Demna’s vision for Baleciaga always sets the tone for the season. This time, the Georgian designer explored the concept of everyday clothing for a range of typical occasions, presenting a striking collection in which models briskly took to the catwalk, without a finale. Just a few days after this triumphant show, the Kering group announced that Demna would be leaving Balenciaga to take the reins at Gucci in early July, meaning that this was his very last ready-to-wear collection for the iconic house. Who would have thought?

In the Maze

The show took place in a symmetrical, black maze. The seats didn’t have numbers, allowing guests to sit wherever they pleased — everyone found themselves in the front row, with no set plans or strict rules. Demna’s idea was to show that, just as the maze has many entrances and exits, the brain navigates multiple pathways during a creative process. Sometimes, you need to get lost to find a way out.

Banal clothes for different occasions
Exploring the sociology of our everyday attire, the Winter 2025 collection showcased a range of ordinary garments reimagined for various life occasions. First, in the realm of businesswear — the very clothes we choose for the office — a twist emerged. A standard-fit two-piece suit was designed to be versatile, worn with or without a white shirt. Its deliberately distressed details, appearing wrinkled or even “moth-eaten”, challenged traditional office norms. You could even disrupt convention further by pairing the suit with a maxi skirt or a polo shirt or by setting aside the jacket and tie in favor of a red rose for an important after-work meeting. Then, there were daywear silhouettes - think standard-fit maxi or three-quarter-length coats, a maxi trench and a fake-fur coat. Additionally, unconventional pieces featured a hoodie so long it could double as a dress, a poplin shirt with an integrated corset, and supermini skirts crafted from knotted everyday garments like polos, button-up shirts, and tracksuit jackets.

Puma Collaboration

Demna loves to collaborate with fashion and/or cultural legends, and this collection is no exception. His Puma tie-up features Balenciaga I PUMA technical sportswear — a modern incarnation of streetwear. The collection includes nylon tracksuits, sweatpants, zip-up jackets, baseball caps, a bathrobe, leather bomber jackets, and ultrasoft Speedcats featuring a destroyed formstrip in black, white, and navy blue.

What’s Next for Demna?

In a surprise move by the Kering group, Demna secured one of the industry’s most prestigious positions at Gucci — announced just two days after Paris Fashion Week concluded. His couture collection in July will be his last for Balenciaga, and he will begin his new role at Gucci immediately, likely presenting his first collection in September.

The announcement was indeed a shock — I could hardly believe it was true — as speculations were rife. Many expected either Hedi Slimane to take the reins (after all, he recently bought a house in Milan) or Maria Grazia Chiuri to leave Dior following her Cruise show in Rome in May. Both designers are renowned for their styling prowess and ability to drive brand success. Similarly, Demna has long been celebrated for his innovative approach. Yet his aesthetic and ironic take on fashion — which revolutionised the industry with the sensational success of Vetements and led to his appointment at Balenciaga in 2015 — now seems at odds with Gucci’s legacy, a brand famed for its iconic accessories and the Tom Ford era of sexy clothing.

Will Demna embrace the challenge and reinvent himself? With Kering’s shares falling by 12% the morning after the announcement, the stakes are undoubtedly high. Nevertheless, Demna thrives on challenges and has proven time and again that he can always surprise us — just as he has with his new role at Gucci.

Courtesy: Balenciaga

Text: Lidia Ageeva