All the World’s a Stage: The Dior Metamorphosis

For her Autumn-Winter 2025-2026 collection, Maria Grazia Chiuri delves into the stories of the past to shape a new future for the brand, transforming her show into a theatrical performance helmed by the legendary Bob Wilson. Here’s everything you need to know about the new collection.  

A Theatrical Performance
The spectacle unfolded in five distinct acts, each evoking the grandeur of a live theater production. Backstage, Chiuri revealed that she had collaborated with the renowned American experimental theater director and playwright Robert Wilson, who not only choreographed the models’ movements but also conceived the thematic concept for each chapter of the show. The performance opened with an evocative scene of a young girl seated on a swing, setting a contemplative tone before giving way to a procession of models who appeared to stride amid flickering flames, while an enigmatic prehistoric bird soared overhead. Subsequent tableaux featured dynamically shifting colossal rocks, crater-like formations, ethereal fog, the dramatic emergence of an iceberg, and ultimately a cascade of confetti that heralded the finale.

References to the Past
In this season’s narrative, Chiuri sought to evoke history by inviting dialogue with Dior’s storied legacy. One of her signature creations—the immaculately crisp white shirt—was reimagined as a counterpoint to the illustrious era of fellow Italian designer Gianfranco Ferré, who helmed the Maison from 1989 to 1996. Known for his penchant for dramatic, exaggerated silhouettes, Ferré’s influence is artfully woven into the collection (the white short adorned with ruffles is set to become a must-have of the season). Additionally, the show marked the triumphant return of the best-selling “J’adore Dior” T-shirt — an iconic pop design by John Galliano, once famously styled by Carrie Bradshaw in the celebrated series Sex and the City. Within Chiuri’s refined universe, this trendy piece is reinterpreted in several iterations, including versions delicately adorned with lace.

Drawing deeply from the aesthetics of the Edwardian and Victorian eras, the collection showcases an array of lace-clad silhouettes, ethereal deconstructed crinolines, impeccably tailored tailcoats, and detachable collars. Sumptuous black velvet ribbons, accented with baroque pearls, and opulent velvet capes further enrich the narrative. In her show notes, Chiuri disclosed that she drew profound inspiration from Virginia Woolf’s novel “Orlando”, wherein the protagonist traverses three centuries and undergoes a transformative journey from man to woman. This literary muse spurred her to contemplate the fluid boundaries between femininity and masculinity, ultimately crafting a wardrobe that serves as a perfect, versatile armor for the multifaceted demands of modern life.

Courtesy: Dior

Text: Lidia Ageeva