A Walk Down the Memory Lane: Khaite Autumn/Winter 2024 by Catherine Holstein

Another blockbuster collection from Khaite was an ode to Catherine Holstein’s heritage, a poignant tribute to her mother, and a flashback to our past selves and how we occasionally fall apart but always manage to pick up.

Let’s be honest, if we had to name one great woman designer coming from America, we would all scream without hesitation Catherine Holstein, founder and creative director of Khaite. Since she founded her buzzy label in 2016, she became a favorite of the stars (Naomi Watts and Sofia Richie were both in attendance on Saturday night), and won the designer of the year by the Council of Fashion Designers of America twice in row, in 2022 and 2023.

For the Khaite Autumn-Winter 2024 collection, Catherine Holstein was thinking a lot about her heritage, her memories of the past and where she comes from. The designer dedicated her collection to her late mother and all the souvenirs she keeps of her.

“I’ve been thinking a lot about heritage, generational change, reworking, rebuilding, falling apart, and picking up. This season we explored the dilapidation of a fallen drape quite literally, sculpting it on the body and letting the shape fall away”, Catherine Holstein explained in her show notes. This time, the designer decided to celebrate the fabric, letting it fall freely and gracefully. It was like a meditative practice, a catharsis that helped her let go of her darkest feelings. Probably, that’s why the show space at Chelsea Piers on the Hudson River was as dimly lit as one can possibly imagine. Models marched on the black-laquered runway to the moody rock ballads, including “She’s Lost Control” by Joy Division. Armed with impeccable red lipstick. You know what they say: “Wear red lipstick like armor, and let strength be your signature.”

Holstein’s silhouettes this season speak volumes, textures are liberated, and sublime details become structural. The designer plays with sheer fabrics, like organza and silk jersey, that she tops off with leather and outerwear. She also introduces couture fabrics like silk gazar into her collection that can’t help but produce a stunning effect (tops in molded silk gazar with darts were one of the collection’s highlights). And then there is slick knitwear, used for cropped bolero jackets and floor-length maxi dresses, that we are definitely going to see on the NYC streets next autumn.

Catherine Holstein came up with brilliant ideas for outerwear, as well. Think, spy leather trenches with big-big enveloping sleeves, as if they were fit for menswear, eye-catching furs and elegant cocoon coats and capes with rounded shoulders. Everything a strong woman needs to look stunning and be ready for her daily adventures.

Anchored by classic black, cream, and white, the dark and neutral palette of the season is enhanced with a touch of greys, army green, camel and striking ruby-red. A true show-stopper, the star pattern of the season in mandarin orange and black was a variation of the timeless polka dot motif. As if Khaite girl went down the memory line and found herself at the Dolce Vita movie set and then came back to the present time just in time to meet her lover at the top of the Empire State Building.

Text: LIDIA AGEEVA